Hey its Trevor, aka T-dog! You're in the right place. badass race car/truck projects. Just seeing what I can do. Thank you to all that's joined and supported along the way.
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This is super cool to see considering I was getting ready to cam my 97 vortec yukon next year. I was looking into the summit 8802 cam for mine, head gasket swap, worked heads for lift support, injector upgrade and possibly an ecm swap. If you could do another video with more information and specs, that would be great. I see you kept your stock intake manifold as well, I’m curious to see how well it works!
Thanks man, the only reason I stuck with stock intake is to keep the whole computer system working like stock. I wanted everything in this truck like normal. I got it running pretty strong now. It's basically a vortec with 195 AFR heads flat top pistons and suporting mods.
Found out some new info, your Tan wires for the o2's NEED to be spliced to a chassis ground. I used the same ground wire that I had going to the side of the alternator. I believe this is only if your truck is 03/04. Pin 26,28,29.
GRATE BUILD cant wait to see her drop 11s in the road😁!!!!!!!!! I have a 01 GMC Sonoma(4dr) CrewCab tbh your the reason I went vortec instead of LS just to be different let the haters hate...if it blow or go there gonna hate anyway THERE HATERS THATS WHAT THAY DO
I literally bought this exact truck a week ago, 2nd owner with 140k miles. She's well taken care of and runs good but needs a tiny bit of work. I'm excited to see what i can do with it. I think im gonna keep her stock because it's basically gonna be my daily but I've seen people get a lot out of just the stock engine and upgrades.
Zr2s are hard to come by in good condition. I found mine at 130k and rebuilt the whole front end. Replaced the suspension shortly after doing the front end and found out the previous owner put stock s10 shocks on it which are 1-2” height differences. So make sure ur buying the right parts when it comes to the drive train and suspension. Other than that and changing out the distributor to brass points I love my truck and will be a LS1 project in the near future
This is awesome, didn't know they made spider injectors that can support 500 HP!😳 Compression should be fine as long as your tuner can make it like to run at 180°F. I wouldn't go with a thermostat lower than that because it might let the water flow to fast that will make it overheat? But you can try if you want? Better off running one of those restrictor plates instead of a thermostat if you want to go lower. A good cooling system with a 180° stat should be good though. Now tell me all about those spider injectors that can support 500 HP and where the flock to get those?!! I was just thinking about that wondering if anyone figured out how to make those spider injectors support more than 330 HP. Can't wait to see what you make on the dyno.😎👍
I agree with you on the 180.. i’ll probably do some back-to-back tests and see how it acts between 160 that I was told to run vs the high flow 180 have.
I was going to order my injectors from a website called FIVEO motorsports.. but my tuner apparently has his own source “PCM for less” there might be other places you can get them if you do some research. There’s some big boy injectors out there, bigger than what I got.
@@nicholsperformance92 Wow, no one hot rodded the sbc Vortec engines because of the limiting injectors. About time they figured out how to alter those. To bad they didn't make them so they can be mounted externally so there can be more air flow.🤔🤷😎👍
These guys get away with bandaids on the low power or ligjtweight vehicles. GM used the bigger axles and wanted to use the thicker bearing so they had to remove material from the carrier itself. Once they go its not worth taking the cover off just find a rearend out of a 3/4 ton truck and leave the 10 bolt alone
the Larger 10 bolts have proven to handle impressive power with basic mods. But I do agree 12 bolts and especially ford 9inch have a home under many drag cars for good reason.
This is quite motivating I am trying to build a nice engine for my 89 Pontiac gta and recently got a 350 for free and decide to build it this is my first ever build and trying to study up and see what to do when building this anything would be better than the 305 it has right now
I just found your 383 build video. Very interesting and cool. You did a lot of honing to fit in the oversized pistons. I have an old deck surface mounted boring bar and it works great for stock rebuilds. The finish honing is done by hand like you did. Of course no were near as much 😂 what I do is set the block into my solvent tank and turn it on then you can have the solvent running continuously were you want it. I highly recommend you get yourself a nice solvent tank with a pump for honing. It's much cleaner and more reliable. Besides, while your honing away your wonderful wife can be cooking your dinner 😂😂 Cool video man I enjoyed it
I have a 98 Sonoma and I kinda eventually feel like doing this one day thing is well I do want it to be cable driven for the throttle body. Hate fly by wire but thing is mine is a 4 cylinder 5 speed and I kinda want to stick with the manual in it but with the V8 in it I got practice in with a manual and I do feel like keeping it as a manual. Thing would be which transmission would be good to use and if there's a transmission that would work with one of these engines and what clutch and pressure plate I'd need. But if Im not able to then nah I'd rather keep it the same then and leave it at that.
Thanks! I got it on summit here's the part # ESP-B13005L03068 Eagle has tons of different combinations on their website. I honestly honestly should’ve got the 12cc piston combo my compression is a little high.
That's awesome. My son and I just did a Ford 302, no machine shop garage rebuild using a hone. I want to do a 347 next. I love to see this stuff. So many people now think that any and all engines have to go to a machine shop every time they come apart.
Sweet that’s cool, knowing you did it all yourself as a special feeling! Your right that’s one of the motivations for making these videos. People seem to forget this is what hotrodding was it wasn’t always just a “take it to a machine shop thing”.
I might go that route depending what’s available. Those ones are a little more forgiving. i’m pretty confident. I have a really good surface for just about any gasket tho.
@@nicholsperformance92 Absolutely, I was just sayin' but next time get a couple of cinder blocks so the weight is distributed a bit more evenly than a crankshaft can do. Should be ok though.😎👍
@@nicholsperformance92 You are welcome. What's going on, you still healing from honing those cylinders .030" by hand? Been waiting to see that puppy go together.😁😎👍
That is awesome that you were able to do that! But why did you get .030" over pistons? You do know they make .010" and .020" oversized pistons for a sbc 350 block right? How long did it take you for the first .010" to come out? Subtract that from the amount of time it took to get to .030" and the time you had to wait for things to cool down.😯 On a good note you probably got jacked from doing that to 8 cylinders.💪 Ok, so I have been a Tool and Die machinist for almost 40 years and have played around with engine building even longer. The proper way to express machine shop math is; .100" is spoken as one hundred thousands. That means there is one hundred if these, .001" which are spoken as thousands. Then there is .010" is spoken as ten thousands because there are ten of these .001" thousands. If you put a 5 after the 1 on ten thousands you get .015" which is spoken as fifteen thousands. Now we get into 4 decimal places .0001" is spoken as one tenth because there is ten of those in one thousand. When spoken this number .0015" one would say one and a half thousands or one thousand and five tenths. Or if it were .0013" it would be spoken as one thousand and 3 tenths. Breaking it down further than tenths isn't necessary unless it is for aerospace. Machine shop measurements as you probably figured out by now are based on thousands. Some of the measurements you were speaking made my head hurt.😁 I hope this helps.😎👍
Here's a tip for measuring you actual deck height to the centerline of the mains; You install a main bearing so the tang part is hanging away from the block so you can insert it so half of the thickness is hanging off of the upper housing bore. This will allow you to depth mic or use calipers that can measure depth to measure from the deck through a cylinder to the backside of the main bearing that is installed weird. You should be able to find the housing bore diameter on line. Or if you use your bore gauge and mics you can measure it.(But it really doesn't need to be that close.) When you measure down to the backside of the main bearing you'll want to make sure that you hit the tangent point of the radius, which basically means to make sure to measure to the highest point because it's round. You should be able to measure front to rear to see how good the factory did on each bank. If I think of any other measuring tips I'll write them down for you.😎👍
Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that when you get your measurements you need to add half of the housing bore diameter and that will be your actual deck height.😎👍
Thanks for all the info bud, .030 pistons is just what came with the kit. Didn’t really have a say in it… if I was just doing an oversize job myself, I would definitely not skip that far unless there were some serious damage to clean up. And you’re right learning all of the thousands measuring and the lingo is definitely a lot to get straight lol.
@@nicholsperformance92 Well, maybe next time you can piece a kit together and have it balanced locally? Would save a ton of work and possibly dollars if you find a good deal on slightly used or new parts someone decided not to take that direction? Very cool video, can't wait to see you do another garage rebuild.😎👍
Didn't take enough off for it to really matter any ways. this was more of a resurface job. And I measured off the piston tops once installed so I know its right on the money. I will find a better way to measure next time tho. Have you ever measured one of these old blocks? These things were funky spec from the factory, and they still ran forever!
The normal diy trick for this is a sheet of glass on the bench with sandpaper on it. Far more level than wood. Then you set the head or block on it and slide the block/head on it. The weight of part works to your advantage. If doing a really heavy block, you use the engine hoist to hold up part of the weight.
For a head, this might work. For a whole block not so sure. I get what you’re saying tho. Honestly, the piece of wood with weight evenly distributed. That will conform slightly, but not too much…Since this video, I have double checked my deck #’s and it is more than within spec so this definitely works. As long as you follow some of the basic rules that I stated it should turn out pretty decent. 👌🏻.
I understand what you’re saying, but there’s only so many height options. And most engines are a little out of whack like mine is (factory specs are all over the place) where both decks are at two different heights. This is why if possible cutting the block more precisely is key.
I have shared your fix for the G-80 posi issue with many people, after blowing up 2 i've gone with a 35 spline 9" with a Yukon locker. My piston's are .004" in the hole, good luck i'll be watching for the results.🙃
Awesome, I’m glad to hear that, well, not the blowing up part lol. You’re never have to worry again with that 9 inch! Hopefully it’s close to your number. I’ll be happy with that.
I applaud your effort, but naturally i question the process. Every good engine builder needs a proper machinest, or their own machine shop. Not to be mean, but a dingleball hone is as far as I'd go. Beyond that i prefer a consistent bore job. Time is money, and the machine shop guy needs to eat too. Same with reconditioning the connecting rods and crank. Its a very worthwhile service to have a machine shop do that as well. Nowadays it likely is hard to find a reputable machine shop. I am thankful i still have one in my neighborhood.
Thanks. Don’t get me wrong if this was a top-tier racing motor I probably wouldn’t be experimenting with it. But this is just a street truck motor that was from the junkyard and I just want to see what I can do with it and share it with all of you guys.
So Ive not had a block bored in several years what would a good machine shop charge now? 200-250? Why all this trouble? Last I had done was 10-15.00 a hole and bored perfect round and square to the block. I have to give you a A+ For guts and determination.
I’m not sure what the prices would be depending how much work you have them due to the engine. I mainly just wanted to see what I could do myself. Some people don’t have a (good) machine shop near them. so many stories that I know of personally and have read online of machine shops screwing things up. Not trying to hate on shops. Sometimes they’re just backed up also. I just really wanted to do a DIY build on this. It’s not an F1 car so if I can get everything close enough and look back and say hey, I did all of that myself. I’ll be pretty ecstatic with that!
Last time I really needed a block bored it was in 2005. It was $250 at a shop in the Atlantic City area. I know alot of shops around me now are closing up, just not enough business.
So your thinking in racing terms. you talkin rod bolt strenght and high HP drag racing terms. Who you going to be racing in a zr2? The front diff and the trans case are goimg to be your weak links Id think. The stock efi is very limited as well and your worried about 7k rpm? Also seems to me the ecu aka computer will need tunning too to ever run right witha cam the heads etc. Also the fuel pump for that rpm would need a uprade I would say all you need to ever turn is 5-5500 rpm. Also I would think later a nice mod would be a floor shifter from a little blazer. Stock rod bolts will live at 5k a long long long time I know I was your age once way before ARP was around.
The PCM has already been tuned, which is how I’ve gotten to this point and will be re-tuned for the new set up along with some new injectors because I’m going to be out powering them now. I’m projecting a 6200 shift point right now.. which means a red line of 64/65 depends on where power drops off on the Dyno when I get to that point. Anyone that’s only running their engine to less than 5 grand is not going anywhere quick. You’re right it’s definitely not a drag track but I definitely will be running her!
Bro I’ve used wd-40, Gas is way better. It’s an amazing detergent. It’s a lubricant and it dries without any residue. The fumes kind of suck but just open the door it’s fine. Very little chance of that stuff somehow blowing up for no reason. I’m definitely not the first person using this.
Applaud your efforts, one suggestion is to use diesel for cutting fluid, more lubrication and lower flash point, machine shop costs have risen and finding a shop that does it properly is getting harder to find
That was a good idea in a pinch when you don’t have the right tool when you need one. To the guy talking about a dowel pin remover. You really think a guy that uses stuff around the shop to redneck engineering a tool that works doesn’t know what a dowel pin remover is?
