I used to like Honda better. Their cars are very intuitive. Toyota cars have awkward designs I know. Sadly Honda has no plug-in hybrids. So I ventured into RAV4 Prime. In addition to the reverse noise, it has also a forward drive noise exacerbating at around 30 km/hr. What a mistake I made. Why don’t Toyota make the warning sound intermittent instead of continuous monotone ?!?
Or if you're lucky to have a bathroom right next to your room like i do drill a small hole through the wall and hook into the bathrooms 15 am circuit :D Will never even notice the hole because it goes right next to the sink on the floor. I run a dehumidifier power and water line there too. Hot and human south sucks. My computers unpainted chassis actually started to rust before i got myself a dehumidifier. Typical 80+ % humidity.
You would think, but its not like that on this unit.. The standard mode operates like auto mode would on a normal thermostat. Auto mode is something else on these but I know it draws more
Thanks for the video. I have a Casio Illuminator, and I couldn't figure out how to release the clip. Without this video it is likely I would have broken it.
Great video, as I use S Mode all the time. So many comments but I'm still confused on one point - correlation between charging the battery rather than discussing just fuel efficiency which are all related. You do mention it around 7:40min in but not in detail. Obviously more battery charge = more fuel efficiency = more range . Just debating with a mate who just got his RAV4 Edge Hybrid (top of the range Hybrid in Australia) and I drive a Hybrid Cruiser (Same as an XSE). He is adamant that using the brakes generates more charge back to the High voltage EV Batteries than using S Mode? I disagree in that putting your foot on the brake will just have a similar effect as in telling the MG1 motor to go into regen mode. Not much is mentioned here about the charge rates in comparing D mode with braking vs S mode with it deacceleration capabilities? In simple terms, scenario.. So I'm doing 35mph (~60km) in D Mode and I apply the brakes gently down to say 20mph on a level road. If I do the same, but using S Mode switching from D to S4 and then S3 until I reach 20mph, which method charged the batteries more? (Based on the battery strange was ready to take 100% regeneration charge). Same thing going down a hill, my mate says applying the brakes down a hill generates more charge than S mode in S4 or S3 etc. Who is right?
Could you use the meter for an entire 24hr period and let us know what the total power consumption was, and maybe the highs and lows of than 24hr time period? Just a 2 min video about the results, or a quick edit in the discription would help people understand how far you you can go on a power station when considering solar power.
If you only gently press the brake, the mechanical brakes do not touch the discs. The car smoothly recovers up to the maximum level the battery can take. In the background, it goes from S(D) 6 to 1. This depends on how much you press the brake, the temperature of the battery and its level of charge. Only when the pointer reaches the minimum on the CHG field do the mechanical brakes start working. Therefore, I don't see the point of making a simple thing so complicated. It is enough to watch the CHG field. And if someone wants to see more precisely, he can install the Hybrid Assistant app on his phone. The principle is simple, you have to watch the road, if you brake, you lose.
108f is NOT "flaming hot." That is a temperature often found in the Southern U.S. I HAD a Midea 12K BTU unit and it FAILED after less than ONE YEAR. My second Midea FAILED after SIX MONTHS. Moral: Midea makes crap!
Do not buy! Midea didn't think at all about how to clean it. Yes, it works quietly, we bought it in May 2024, and we have been suffering from a mold smell for a month now. Midea didn't think about maintenance, it's impossible to reach contaminated areas. Customer service did not help at all. Garbage after 3 month of work.
Ok.watched this vid twice. When this thing is drawing 9.5 amps, the wattage is closer to 1100 watts--- not 800 assuming close to 1PF. I think the wattmeter is wrong. What i would like to know, if this inverter unit is running flat-out (max cooling) and not turning off, it looks like it is about the same wattage as a standard conventional window unit of a seer about 12ish. It looks like the efficien cy gain is because it is essentially a variable ac unit, soft start and no spikes etc. Did you ever check the outlet air temp? Overall, an informative video. TY
These are the best window type AC units at the moment. Period. Wish they would add heat function since everything is there except a reversing valve. I finally replaced mine with some 12k R32 refrigerant mini splits. In cooling mode, they consume between 140 and 1000 watts. And it's got to be over 100 outside to hit the 1000 watts. Very interesting logic regarding the cooling power on any inverter system, whether window unit or mini split.
i want to put a fan at the same spot.should i make it intake or exhaust?,as i understand it if i use the fan on the opposite side,it should be intake?i would also want to ask you,theres only one spot to connect the fan right?where the default exhaust fan is connected?
But does the balloon stay floating above the Airmega? What happens to the balloon when the settings change? Is it a game that your kids play? Is it something to do with the airflow? Does the balloon float indefinitely? And what about the balloon?
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Many window AC options out there but it all comes down to performance and COSTEFFECTIVENESS. Thank you for showing the power consumption data. That's what finally sold me on this one. I subbed for a great job! May God bless you and get enough subs to get monetized soon. I'm on the same boat but literally just got started. Best wishes to your channel.
Did you clean the ceiling? If so, how? I need to do a deep cleaning in mine and just afraid the fabric might start drooping. 220K going strong for almost 20 years❤
Most consumer air conditioners are fine to about 115F ambient at which point they begin to de-rate significantly....and will continue operating with cooling capacity until 135F. After that it's likely the system will trip on high temperature or high head pressure depending on the safety switches that the unit is equipped.
We have a hisense 12000 btu unit that is starting to shut off when using the air conditioner when its in the three digits. But when we use our fan it doesn't shut off. Also I notice if its under three digits its fine to.
