I'm a 43yo retired/disabled US Army Veteran, (100% service connected) My MOS's were- 19K, 92F & 91c. I spent 12 months in Mosul, Iraq, in '09-'10. I'm into PC gaming, dirt bikes, guns & technology. I upload videos of all the things that keep me entertained & away from the anger issues that my disability has given me. Mostly dirt bike videos, some video game & shooting videos here & there. I don't take RU-vid too seriously... It's mostly just a hobby & a way for me to share the things that I like to do with my friends & family & anybody else who finds it interesting. Thank you for checking out my channel! Twitter& Instagram @Zeus33rd
Buy some Zilla tires man. I live in Alberta Canada and that what my group uses. We haven’t found anything that chews through deep snow better than Maxxis Zilla’s. My buddy used to swear by Mudlites until he tried Zillas. Lol
I have the same problem with my pwk 38mm but on mine it is actually the needle seat that's leaking gas through and overflowing all the time, I haven't figured out a way to replace the O-ring without destroying the brass seat because here in Mexico it will be impossible to find a new one
Without even trying you gave me 3 answers that I was looking for the past 4 hours... Where does my PCIE 3.0 sound card is plugged into? How to remove the GPU (didn't even noticed this button) Where the hell are the rest M2 slots. (Thought that the "Armor" is just fancy) yeah I know I feel like stupid now. Well done thank you mate
I found why mine was leaking, there was some stubborn dirt that i couldnt see and hadnt flushed out from the inlet on the carb into the body and in the area where the fuel moves to the float needle valve. Blasted it with the hose (or compressed air) and it freeded up, this was the 3rd time i had tried to fix it in a year, just shows that its attention to detail that can fix it. Good luck.
So i have a 12 to 16 style pwk 36 that has the same problem, ive done everything you have done . The seat appears to be non removable. So i ordered a new one from jd and problem solved. I do prefer the pwk to all aftermarket smart ish carbs as they just run better if you jet them correctly.
Great that you are having fun doing these. I also did modify an old PSU to work almost the exact same way, however with an added Fuse on those wires, Power button, Buckboost converter with additional Potentiometer to have a variable voltage between 1-12V and installed 2 banana socket for two 12V lines each. I get around 15A from the both 12V lines, which is good for powering automotive electronics. Bought another old PSU for like 15eur, gonna mod it into a bench power supply too. Its fun doing these things.
In my case, it was the float needle seat that had some slight corrosion. I assume from ethanol gas. That meant the needle was never going to seat, ever. And since the seat is pressed in, that required a new carburetor. In my case I bought a smart carb 2. And I only use ethanol free gas now
I was thinking of trying this on my tusk Dsport rear to quiet it on the highway, Holy howl batman it's annoying, I rode 80 miles home from the dirt and was ready to jump off, it was insanely loud even with ear plugs, will it accomplish anything cutting a groove down the center of the big knobs?
I hate the soldier or he needs to reduce the damage or speed of the rifle. And yes, the soldier plus the angel is fucked up. I hate the game for lack of balance.
Interesting. I have a brand new carb that I wanted to try on my '87 LT250R with the same symptoms. It wasn't leaking until I fussed with it and now I can't get it to stop. I should've went with a Lectron. Probably will, but I have all that money in this carb and intake... grrr. I just want to understand the f'ing problem now.
