Air pockets inside 3d printed lures certainly do work. My glidebait I've been working on for 2 years now is just that, a hollow bodied bait. This would have saved me some time on prototypes, but doing the old fashioned way of trial and error helped me learn a lot with ballasting and tuning. Caught like 30 fish on one glide including a 4.5lb and a 5lb bass. Can't wait to finalize the lure this year and show the world what's possible. Killing me not to share each catch lol.
Dude you are great at this I know you went through the mistakes and made successful molds kudos to you I just woke up one day and decided I wanted to CNC my molds using the HDPE plastic to learn before I decide to upgrade to aluminum but watching your videos I might have to dig out my 3D printer 😂 I just have to reeducate myself on fusion 360 But overall cause I’m ranting 😂 your doing a great job also I just came across your channel I’m subscribing definitely and taking plenty notes THANK YOU 🙏🏾
Thanks man! For the design, prototype and test phase nothing beat resin 3d prints in my book. Production, aluminum still rules but you can do low volume production with the resin molds.
@@WMBayouLures I run a bait business I have aluminum molds and a custom from Ukraine I’m stoked about trying these molds I’m tired of spending large amounts of money on aluminum molds 🤣🤣 especially the ones that everyone in the world has 🤣🤣🤣 I just love u stand out among other bait makers
As for filling the holes: instead of a torche and inhaling melted plastic fumes: you could use acetone and plexiglass. Cut up some spare plexiglass scrap and pour in just enough acetone to cover it. The acetone will totally dissolve the plexiglass and leave behind a sticky liquid. The viscosity of that liquid depends on the ratio of plexiglass to acetone. This sticky liquid is essentially a plastic cement that will leave behind nothing but plastic when the acetone evaporates away: allowing you to do chemical plastic welding. You can get much stronger and tighter bonds, especially if the plastic you're bonding to is also dissolvable in acetone. There's commercial products that is exactly this mixture. But it's easy enough to diy. I discovered it when I was a broke college student making some fun art projects with plexiglass.
I closed it down at the beginning of the year, I was not able to keep up with the constant new uploads. Still trying to figure out a decent way to provide help/models to people that doesn't overtake my life 😆
Depends on the brand of filament your using to make those 35 molds, and type of filament such as pla, abs, petg, etc., and the amount your using per print
Sure, I use resin though and my calculations are based on Siraya Tech Sculpt. The point stands though, I dont think you will find a resin that will be equal to $900 for a mold, well at least you don't need to use that material ;-)
@@user-gn6ov2fr5w I buy Sculpt in 5kg jugs for $160 but it does go on sale for $135 occasionally, like today. A typical multi-cavity mold cost around $20, takes roughly 10 hours to print on my Saturn 4 Ultra
You’ve covered a lot of aspects of small lure business. One of my first products is a super tough musky lure that will have good demand in Canada. Have you investigated the process/costs selling small orders to individual customers in Canada?
I have sold to canada, its not much different, if you use a decent online store. I use shopify but I am sure all the big players will handle the currency conversion and shipping rates just fine.
La marca Berkeley tiene una línea de señuelos blandos con un acabado muy similar al que se obtiene con estos moldes impresos en metal. Creo que este acabado mate se irá haciendo cada vez más popular en la industria.
These adapters get extremely hot, almost in the relm of being painful to touch. I'm thinking of taking mine out of its case and adding a few stick on heatsinks onto the chips and putting it into a larger enclosure. Because how hot it gets doesn't seem like it would last long.
If I was doing my CNC build again I wouldn't waste time with stepper motors. They caused so many problems with inaccuracies which prevented my two part molds fitting right. I found that the smaller tools require higher speeds but steppers have very little torque above a certain speed and lose steps. Losing half a mm over a job is enough to prevent aluminum mold halves fitting together. Any money I saved by not buying servos was lost in expensive slabs of aluminum I couldn't use.
Patent protection is granted for a limited period, generally 20 years from the filing date of the application; so its 20 years not 25. I haven't read the patents yet, but I believe what you are trying to describe is a CIP (continuation in part). A CIP application allows the client to keep the original design features in the patent application which allows the client to seek patent protection on the original design features at a later date. Finally, if the design was already out in the fishing community, then the patent shouldn't have been granted. Do you have evidence that similar lures existed before the chatterbait was patented?
Thanks for clearing up those specifics! I will go find the video that mentioned the earlier bladed jigs. I don't know the specifics but this gentleman had a few samples of what he claimed where bladed jigs released before the Chatterbait was patented. In my limited experience with the patent office, specifically in the tech/software space, it is almost impossible for them to track down prior art in these small niche areas.
@@WMBayouLures Just like it's facial tissue not Kleenex, and medicated adhesive strips, not Band-Aids, right? But like many of these households names, they are so good and so entrenched, if you don't use the TMed name, most won't know what you are referring to. Try to tell someone you rented a Dumpster without using that TMed name.
Wait... Was I seeing the 3D printer nerd symbol in the bottom right because you put it there or because I just watched his video and it's an artifact? Only in some scenes.
Oh man its been a while since I owned this machine but I *think* you need a working USB on a PC to setup the adapter and then it just works on the Saturn Ethernet port.
You have to have it plugged into some form of USB for it to get power, or it just won't work, because it requires power. I didn't have mine hooked up to the PCs USB port to set it up, you just need to have it hooked up to the PCs Ethernet port, you can have the USB plugged into a normal phone charger (as long as it provides enough power).
I usually leave it running while I print but that is really only because I generally print over night. In some rare cases it can get too hot and cause issues but I have only have that happen once, it was totally my fault, the resin was already hot, turned on the heater by mistake, and had a really long print.
