Welcome to Hifi Home Theater! This channel is all about Home theater with a strong focus on music listening. Im all about sound quality over SPL. Concert films and stereo music make up the bulk of the use in my setup. I have been into home theater for over twenty years and was into car audio before that. I have owned dozens of different speakers, subwoofers, AVR's, you name it. I have also built many DIY subwoofers and speaker kits. I am also a long time member of the AV community. My username on most sites like AVS Forum is Brian6751. I strive to create content that is not just "me too" and gives a unique perspective. If this sounds like something you would like, you are in the right place!
Hi thank you for the review. I would really like to hear your thoughts, how would you compare these with Polk R700, I understand they may be completely different league but so many great reviews on Polk even by Andrew. And is it even possible for you to hear one and give your honest opinion. I heard couple videos on you tube of both of them and ML sound way better Thank you
This is completely not true. You use a y at your output so that both your subwoofers can have a left and right input. And so can your amplifier for your Tower speakers or surround sound? Your subwoofer will perform significantly better with a left and a right compared to an LFE channel.
I have 2 amp`s ROTEL RB-991 that I have conneted to 2 Cerwin Vega XLS 215. 1 per speaker and I have been thinking about selling the 2 Rotels, but they are a classic amps soo I really dont want to.. I was looking at Crown amps XLS 2002 and 2502.. Would anyone here have sold 2 twin Rotel RB991 if they had them.``??? When I play on my Amp, you can here that the CERWIN VEGA speakers need ALOT more power.. Thanks for every answer I can get
I recently purchased the 3800 for $1,271. It's perfect with pre outs for 11 channels and 4 subs !. I have 7 external amp channels and drive 4 Atmos speakers 1 sub and Buttkickers with this unit. I didn't need to spend $3,000 for 150w per channel which is limiting headroom. Inexpensive upgrade for 4-8k and Dolby Atmos, my main objective.
The XLS Crown amps are great class D amps. Their largest attribute is the massive amount of dynamic range that they add to a system. I do agree that they do not color the sound, so they are application-sensitive. They have three variable band pass filters, they sound precise, they’re very adjustable and is easy to use, they’re efficient and very powerful, and I’ve never heard their fan or any other unwanted noises. I am using pair of mono-blocked Crown XLS 2502s @ 4Ωs 2400 watts each, to drive a set of Skar DDX15-D2, 1000-watt RMS sub woofers in my home theater. I do recommend that the subwoofer amp that you use, is rated higher than the max power your subwoofer speaker is rated for. I also own two Crown SLX 1002s which are also used as sub drivers. If you use the RCA inputs on these Crown amps, even at the .775volt sensitivity level, the amps will only run at about 60% of their rated power. If you need them to run at full power, use an unbalanced to balanced converter. I run an ART Cleanbox Pro between my theater amp and the two Crowns. Using a cleanbox is simple. After you connect it and adjust its gain, it's just part of the connective wiring. But this converter is often not needed, as these Crown XLS amps @ 60% power, have more than enough power to drive most conventional speakers.
You're not doubling anything. You're splitting a signal, both channels will retain the same voltage. The only reason it might solve that issue is both channels on the sub are now loaded. Meaning that the auto function requires both source channels to be active in order to turn on. Don't speak on things you dont understand. You'll get people more confused than you are.
This is 💯%NOT TRUE !!IT Makes my subwoofer I have SVS and I have Klipsch Subwoofers both produce more sound so what you're saying is not true my friend I hate to tell you but using a splitter will give that amplifier on the back of the subwoofer more input which in turn will give more output guys trust me I have been doing this for over 30 years I have no reason to Lie !!
I have 4 AURA bass shakers in my sofa , I use 2 external plate subwoofer amp from Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier , with parallel connection and all of then is connected with a Y splitter to my Denon 3800H transducer sub output , i use the plate sub amplifier so I can control the frequency without using a mini dsp
got this receiver a year ago , upgrade form Pioneer Elite LX505 , before had previous Denon models also but this receiver (3800H) have everything you wish in a receiver for a good excellent price without sell your kidney . I have it in preamp mode with 11.4 speaker set up and is amazing how is sound. You want to sound even better , safe yourself a big money and buy the Audyssey app for 20.00 dollars and get for free the EVO A1 script , I will assure you don't regret to use this free calibration tool vs paid a expensive dirac live license
I’m using a 20yo Pioneer Elite avr rated at 140wpc, 8ohm running 2 channels, 20hz-20khz. Driving a pair of Polk ES20 bookshelf speakers, plenty of power on tap. Loads of analog and digital inputs including Phono and hdmi, plus sub and preouts and bass management. Great burr-brown dacs too. I don’t know why avrs get such a bum rap for stereo.
Your suggestions work fine for multichannel set up, not so much for true hi fi 2.2 two channel set up. For those of us who are true hifi two channel first enthusiast, the old fashion sub integration for music is also necessary. In my case, I have a Hegel h390 Integrated amp driving the main channels. The receiver does the processing and drivies the remaining channels (HT set up). I do my cross over at 110hz for movies, and at 60hz for multichannel concerts. However, the Hegel is also used for two channel duties and my subs are fed a seperate line out ( subs receive LFE from receiver for multichannel set up, and also line in from the Hegel h390). In the 2.2 set up, the main speakers receive full range frequencies as do the subs, but I set the sub internal low pass to 110 hz, and the gain on the subs is a good 15 dbs lower than the HT set up. Please note that this 2.2 sub integration is the way subs have been integrated for two channels for 50 years. Hey, I'm 64, and into the hifi addiction since 19. Thanks for your contribution to the community.
Thanks for this great review. I know it's the f200's we're reviewing here, but I have to ask - Do you or anyone here have experience with, or a qualified guess on how the Anthem MRX 1140 Receiver would handle the f100's for 2ch and 5.1ch. The 1140 is amazing and have a lot of power for a receiver and works really good on my 8ohm Polk ES60 2.1 and 5.1 setup, but I worry a little bit about how it would handle the 4ohm f100's speakers, specially in a 5.1 setup and if I were to get Martin Logans Center and surround speakers as well.
I have powerful 2 channel amps and formidable full range speakers to go with them. They basically qualify as end game systems for music. But, I also like 2.1 or 2.2 for music and an AVR is the best way to affordably get over 100 WPC/8Ohms, plus sub outs with comprehensive bass management. Even pre HDMI AVRs are good for this purpose, with many of them built like tanks and able to drive 2Ohm loads. The old one I have can even be bridged. I have 2 AVRs just for 2 channel music. I use them more than anything else.
Thanks. I've been looking to make additions to my bedroom setup that will still work with my exiting ML XTi series. Not identical, but the previous series has gone out of stock.
This is by far the best video I have found on setting up base shakers/tactile transducers. No one seems to mention that these things need to be tuned, especially if running from the LFA on your receiver. So, thank you for putting this together! I am hitting the exact problem you are describing. System fully tuned and timed using Audyssey One (A1 EVO) (it's amazing, by the way Google it if you have not heard it ) on my Marantz SR6014 receiver. I currently have two independent subwoofer outputs, each connected to its own subwoofer. I recently purchased four Dayton Audio BST-300EX. One for my chair, and three for the couch, with an individual amplifier for each shaker. So, power is not my problem. When I run the sub output from my headphone amplifier into the shaker’s amplifiers, I get amazing power. Can barely turn it past three. When I run the LFE out from my receiver, using the Audyssey One corrected LFE corrected output, virtually zero sound unless I crank the shaker amplifiers about three quarters of the way up. I do have two miniDSP 2 x 4 HDs. Sounds like what you are saying is I could split the LFE output from the sub 2 output, and run one straight to the subwoofer, and run the other into one of the mini DSPs. Then I can boost the gain and adjust the EQ to add back whatever Audyssey removed from the receiver's LFE’s output? Is that possible? I watched another video where I downloaded an app for my android phone, called Accelerometer. I can place in my actual sitting position and measure the variance in the vibration in 5 Hz increments from 5Hz up to about 60 Hz, where I would cross over. I can do this just using simple test-tone videos on RU-vid. So, basically use the accelerometer instead of a microphone to get the measurements to boost or subtract certain frequencies. Would this work? Anyone else have any input? All input appreciated. This has been making my head ache for a month now! Either way, I hope you come out with that new video soon! Sorry to be so verbose. Typed this too fast!
Have this BLU-RAY disc and love it too. How about reviewing JOHN WILLIAMS LIVE IN VIENNA ?!? Got this disc from Germany thru a friend of mine that lives there. My best regards from BRAZIL !!! 😊
Your conpression issues on the Arendals must be a bad tweeter or something else. The arendals are thx certified and measured by tons of reviewers and are know to perform at high spl. I own the 1723s towers and have no problems whatsoever. Watched dune 2 at reference and it was great. That soundtrack true hd is no joke. 😂
For me Changing my speakers every year isn't an option I need some that will last 5 years or more making the Arendals a little misleading as New speakers come out every 6 months to a years 😂😅
I have a Yamaha AVR with one sub-out. I connected a splitter to connect a Sony Sub but the sound was to low vs. the same Yamaha Sub that is both connected to AVR sub out with splitter. I tested the Sony Sub in Sony AVR and its load. Any thoughts on this?
Actually, I am a recording and mixing engineer and we just filter out at 60Hz with third oder filter and around 18 kHz so I think there's no contents that has data on that low end and high end area. Why do you wanna pay more for that area?
Wasn’t worth it to me when you can pick up a pair of 60TXi’s on close out for 2 grand. The F200’s are great but at $2749.99 each my decision was an easy one. The 60TXi’s look great in Red Oak too! 👍
@@hifihometheater - I would say they are priced fairly considering the high dealer MSRP mark up involved. Nothing against dealers because everybody’s gotta make a buck. At least ML provides a good value compared to some other brands,
Very interesting review. Im struggeling between the 5 x Monitors of the non S and the 2 towers and 3 monitors in a 24qm living room with an 9 qm dining room extension. With what is said the 5x monitors are better with a 60hz crossover in home theater?
Seems like a lot of RU-vidrs are getting into sound demos of their systems playing particular clips which won’t restricted such as that infamous Ready Player One scene. Have you considered doing a video where you demo that racing scene on your Martin Logan’s? Could also be a nice cutaway while you review the whole system as an ML system or simply an Anthem Receiver review? Just ideas… cheers
I actually dont have the ML's anymore. I have Ascendo speakers now. Im sure you've heard this before but, it is impossible to convey what it actually sounds like in someones room through a RU-vid video. Even the things you think you can hear are not accurate and Im not going to put out something I know is amateur and fake just for views. I hope you understand.
@@snowinokinawa Yes, I want to get a couple more weeks with them but I will absolutely be doing a review. I will probably review the PSA TV2112M subs I also got before I review the Ascendo's.
my sub has the right and left inputs but my receiver only has a single sub pre out so im wondering if I can still use it without buying a splitter. Either using just the left or right in the single preout
@@hifihometheater alright….you broke me down! :) Maybe… I guess what I find is that we are in an age of AVRs now that certainly sound “very acceptable”, in 2ch compared with maybe 10yrs ago where that was harder. The issue for me is that when you hear a finer 2-ch system, it spoils you completely by comparison. Then again, isn’t that the truth with just about everything is life?
Hi After watched your video I bought new Denon 3800 yesterday. I am setting up now. Past I was using Onkyo TXNR 636 + Firetv 4KMAX for Netflix, Prime and VLC player for downloaded 4K Atmos Content. Now I am upgrading Receiver and adding 4 ceiling speakers for Auro3D I need your suggestion do I need to upgrade VLC to PLEX and FireTV 4K MAX to NVidia Shield Pro to get Atmos and Auro3D ? My confusion is When Denon AVR has all features VLC and FireTV pass through Audio then what is the need of Plex and Nvidia.
Im not familiar with using VLC/ FireTV for atmos playback. Plex with the Shield will do it. I personally use a Zidoo player for my stored movie files and dont use Auro3D so I dont think I will be much help with this, sorry. Congrats on the Denon 3800!
@@hifihometheater Still waiting on that tutorial, brother. :). I have a new Denon 4800 with 3 RSL 12s subs, Dirac Live w Bass Control, and all the equipment to start messing around with this - NX3000 amp, 4 Crowsons, minidsp, etc. This video is a good introduction. In my setup can i have JUST the crowsons attached to the minidsp by itself? FWIW, my crowsons and one of the subs will be connected to the receiver wirelessly using a pair of SVS wireless kits.
They are awesome, super happy with them. One point: if you build a home theater full of folded motion tweeters, the treble is additive, so yea ... EQ is your friend.
@@thebl1ndbat Yes, exactly, you can have too much of a good thing. I kept the MLs as the front 3, while going with in-walls from HTD for the surrounds and ceiling.
