Dang, every time I try to get into this hobby, the items he talks about are always sold out. Here I thought I was getting a jump on it starting in July lol
Thx David for posting this! I pre-ordered before knowing that there are even concerns about the look. I’m sure it will still look great for those of us that have neighbors that just enjoy the blinking as you said! Any idea when the preorders start to ship?
Unfortunately, the ETA we had of June has passed, and we have no updated ETA. We do have MANY that are paid for and on the way, so if you want to reserve them, order them from us now and you'll get an early place in line for any more EVO's that you need!
We may end up offering them, but honestly the regular EVO's have been highly reliable that I don't personally see the need to spend the extra $$ on the +
Dooes EVO emit light behind it? Would this negatively effect a 360 degree mega tree? Can this be resolved by spray painting the back of a strip of lites with black spray paint?
Wow there’s a whole new channel, Learn Christmas Lighting !! Interesting !! ❤ Would there be regulations when lighting up the sky with these lights? Do we need permission from the city council or the airport authorities? Just wondering. 😅
In most cities, nope. There are a few larger cities that have regulations on searchlights, but in terms of airports there is no regulation, these are not lasers.
Storage, weight, and current draw are the postives in that order for me. The bleeding can be a negative for some. Pushing them in coro is painfull though. Only long term concern is if they will corrode since the latest shipments leave some wire exposed where corrosion could work its way inside.
I must say, David is the man! He raises the bar for customer service too. I agree with you on this one that the evos actually look better inside the white coro. I personally don’t care to look at a bunch of close “dots” on coro. I like the slight light bleed to fill in the gaps between nodes. Thanks for the comparison!
So far I have pushed over 1,000 EVOs into coro. My thumbs were a little sore after each session. Half were GE flakes and half(ish) were in a Showstopper Spinner. The GE without the little notches I would line the little tab in the void between the inner ribs of the coro and push with the handle of needle nose pliers the twist (gently) with the wire. If a coro rib was in the way it was difficult to turn. On the spinner, it had the notches. Most would go in easily but some near a coro rib required a little effort. I ended up using my pixel pliers to install and turn for the majority of the pixels. I guess I have tender thumbs. I am trying to use all black props. I have some that have 5V bullets (don't judge, I have my reasons) and when I have the flakes and arches lit up at the same time I can't really see much difference. My wife the artist doesn't see any either. Anyway I really like the weight saving and lower power requirements of the EVOs. Now if only they would make a 5V version.
I personally don't care too much (it's not massive, and I like to run my show low as my street is dark, and I want the moving head's to appear as bright as possible!)
Hey David, I'm gonna email u a video from my show, on the right side behind the tune to sign is an EVO tree, as u will see, not much different from the other bullet trees.
I've had 2 k8's. 2 k16's and 2 k32's. I love the diversity of the k16 and use it for my mega mini tree with 32 strings x 50 pixels and stuff around tree including the topper with a smart receiver. Mega tree I use a k32 and have a k32 with a few smart receivers as a back up. 3rd year, 22k pixels on over 100 props. Love Kulps. Great video on a good choice to start this hobby. For repair purposes I chose not to try and make my boxes to compact. I attempt to keep it open enough for air circulation and quicker replacement of parts.
Just found out from another forum. One more question, is the Beagle bone necesarry to run just the controller? I already have a rasberry pi. Do i even need another board?
Could you use an f test powered by usb with a wall plug, to run pixels. I’m a newbie thinking of installing my first set of pixels to my eaves, and wonder if to start the f test could run the pixels before I learn how to use controllers, power pack, xlights etc.
Would using a Spiker 'H' at every 200 pixels be a benefit to go out further? For instance on a Showstopper Flake that has 750 pixels then beable to run off one channel.
I’ve had my K32A w/Beaglebone for two seasons at your recommendation. Was brand new to the hobby and with your video to configure the controller in FPP, it has been flawless. I have a cheap WiFi adapter to allow me to upload from inside and to control from my phone and it’s amazingly simple. No experience with other brands yet but for people new to the hobby I’d highly recommend a Kulp. With the K32 I’m able to run my entire show from one controller. Thanks David!
I have been working on some singing Christmas Trees. And I have gotten 2 songs ready to go and I wanted to add 2 snowflakes to the display. I did the drop down and plopped them into the display. When I hit play, I lost all the animation I had on my trees. While poking around, I saw that when I added the flakes, xLights added them to the display and the Start Channels / End Channel and Ctrl Conn numbers were no longer sequential. It was like the snowflakes were added geographically not added at the end of the display. Yes, I am new at this and know that it is user error, but was hoping that you can tell me how I have messed up.
Dang! What an honest BTS conversation, David. Well done, you! I wish more companies would be as candid as are you in this. After hearing you talk about the industry, it makes complete sense.
I just used shingle clips, like these: www.amazon.com/Christmas-Universal-Gutter-Shingle-Holiday/dp/B07ZL5HD66/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=PVE045SJAW6Q&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-1OkKamlqkpy4OIlMs2w5mSdyFtDkET9rzk9bbt2pq-n3wxwdmtjue8SZGa0ne2D6Mzp5rb0fMFmut2IBD9wG2qBLqJDBvuTL-IelE5CZgwXqYMALegEvzRtls7TwE0ZPPTzfmC8wHLYbKyU6w-wUzph8uhVQzaracWUpTVEIvuUDD-QFzeZBx-WQn78v04cM3VxtKhfEW3CL18fdmnCypm69jC6CJxUfskdxPzLEwB8AeI4ChVJdC66936Hl6PxG0Ush8h6JBztdQvp_pefs7okN2bTAiG87p6TrsBiDdY.euIZ4n45achTrWJkBf9zhECQCD5fQathuBAthm1CrUQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=shingle+clips+christmas&qid=1713536826&sprefix=shingle+clips+christrma%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
Agreed on wanting to see them lit in your yard. Would love to see your whole 2023 show like you’ve done in previous years! These look like something interesting to try!
@LearnChristmasLighting David, I am a big fan of the EVO, but you missed the biggest drawback: the wire used is really thin and prone to ripping. I had 3 strands rip last year when putting up my mega tree. No worries though, Mattos replaced them under the warranty. I purposely bought extra, so I wasn't delayed all that much during setup. For those thinking of buying EVOs--Do not hesitate! Just treat them with care (don't yank on them). This year I am using 3300 EVOs on my mega tree (2400 on the tree and 900 for the Boscoyo Sphere V5 as the topper).
PI doesn't blow fuses, users do. Use the lrs-600s so you can feed both sides and can even have some room for pi and you'll be fine. Couldn't agree more on the FPP based especially Kulps; that's all I run, K8 are awesome.
I don’t know if you already have a video about this, but for those of us that don’t do outdoor lighting and pretty much just indoor why is it not worth using a bunch of wemos d1 minis(or those seed esp32 minis) running wled and write your own programs there? Using the esp32 c6 or h2 you can use matter to control it with your normal smart home stuff. At $8-$15 per board I just don’t understand where the extra work to get it all going isn’t worth it? Power delivery isn’t really a problem since power supplies are so cheap now as well.
Can you make a video showing your of season architectural light design 😃👀
3 месяца назад
I'm just double checking here, but your able to have a LOR controller CTB16PC and don't need to do this or you need to do this for the controller to work on Xlights ?
Thank you for your videos. Very informative. I followed along your other video getting loopMIDI and ShowCockpit configured. When I send DMX from xLights, ShowCockpit receives the ArtNet packet. Should the loopMIDI "Total data" and "Throughput /sec" indicators update when I send DMX data from xLights?
After trial and error, I was able to get over the first hurdle. xLights wanted the controller for the DMX model to be set up as "Use Start Channel". I then copied the start channel from the controllers setup tab. Now when I output to lights ShowCockipt does the MIDI translation as expected and loopMIDI increments "Total data" and "Throughput /sec" indicators.
How do you modify your power calculations. If I had 1000 standard bullets run at 30% I would just multiple . .06 x 1000 x .3 = 18 Amps. If these are constant current, what is the draw? I've seen both .05 and .08. Assuming .05 for 1000, I don't think you can just take 30% would you need .05*1000= 50 Amps?
No. EVOs run at 8 milliamps per pixel at 100%, so, if you run 1,000 at 100%, the draw would be 8 amps. Also, you don't want to run EVOs at 30%. I speaking with some folks at Mattos, you'll want to run them at 70-80%.On my mega tree, I run 300 pixels/port. At 70% brightness, the port is drawing 1.68A and 20.16 TOTAL!! As a comparison, my PPD Wreath is 600 bullet 12V pixels on 2 ports (300 per). Being an HD prop, I run it at 20% brightness and it draws 3A and 36W.
I belong to a large non-profit model railroad club that has a permanent model train layout inside a building. We want to use RGB LED strip lighting for the lights above the layout as it weaves around the room. I think we will need both a RGB and a Daylight LED strip to provide enough light for the daytime scenes. What do I need to make a simple day/evening/night/morning/day transition with the lights? I have zero experience with specialty lighting, so do you have a video that shows how this is set up or what equipment I need? We have computers to control the lights, and have heard about Xlights app. Is it possible to control without stringing cable all over the layout? We have WiFi for the building. Any help would be appreciated.
