I got a 2001 raptor 660r with a 686 big bore kit and got Xmas stage 2Z weisco 12:1 pistons and hot Rudz connecting rods what size jets would I use and what settings if I’m in between 1500-3000 ft above sea level
Troubleshooting an '05 v star 1100 , 1st and 2nd gear only , a friend says there is a bolt that backs out preventing it from shifting into higher gears , I am little perplexed at the moment as to what he is talking about, I am ready to throw new clutch plates into it ,any ideas what he might be talking about?
I believe I have same bike vin# 3j6 004002. Can't seem to find the right carb info. Has same king and queen seat even. This bike has a production date of Aug 1979 titled as 1980. Any info you can help with would be great. Carbs must have been rebuilt but I pulled of and the enrichment screens were about plugged and carbs we all dirty. Looked like some kind of rubber or something in them. Need all new vacuum lines and carb to motor rubber mounts? And carb to air box? As with the right carb rebuild kit? Has all 110 mains. 42 pilots? Thank for your videos and any help you can give.
This is greg from alabama .I have a problem with my carburetor on a 1996 yamaha royal star tour classic 1300 rebuilt carburetor run good ,but one floods
As always, I learn AND ENJOY your videos. I can use some guidance with my 2005 Royal Star. I rebuilt carbs after sitting awhile. After the job, I have the following: Seems to be rich, but runs well on the road Starts easy, but after idle for 5 minutes, slows and dies Smells like gobs of gasoline, and can sting my eyes I leaned the pilot down to 1 turn out, still starts and runs, might close them completely and see what happens. With the breather and intake off, I see that at idle (1000 rpm), there is a steady stream of fuel flowing into the barrel from the needle jet port. Recall, these are CVC carbs. Is it normal to see fuel coming through the needle jet port at idle? Thanks for any direction here.
I have a 1996 yamaha royal star 1300 .irebuild the carbs an now I have one carb over flow .what can I do .can I send you the carb .what's you charge to build them
I ham working on the same year RSV. My air/fuel screws appear to have a brass cone over top I want to make sure that's where they are, and how to remove them?
Hey there GM, I chatted with you a few years back about my '07 RSV where I had a heavy fuel smell in the garage after rides. You recommended the seals on the needle might be going. I didn't get a chance to work on it then, as life got in the way. I have added monster ovals since then, picked up a carb repair and a jet kit for that and then had to move from the Midwest to your neck of the woods. Rode about half the year here then got a constant leak soon as the bike fires up. So now I have the bodies off the bike. I am in the process of tearing down the carbs. I wanted to know, how far I need to go? Does the vat damage electronic components? Do I need to remove the throttle body position sensor?
Wanted to provide an update: I bought new plugs, a fuel pump and filter, as I figure it was time to get that out of the way while I was wrenching. Broke down the carbs and soaked everything I wasn't replacing. Dipped in water then Naphtha just as you did. Installed the jets from the kit and replaced all the seals, needles and seats. Fired right up and purred like an angry kitten. I was over the moon that I was able to do it just attending your 101 course. Then after a day and a half, she wouldn't start. I kept fiddling with the pilot screws, the idle speed screw, and nothing brought her back. Well, after about a couple weeks of fooling with it a little after work, ordering several pilot jet sizes, I kept getting the feeling she was starving for fuel. I finally did a petcock and fuel pump flow test. Petcock was fine. Pulled the fuel line to the carbs and tried starting her and the line was sputtering, so I rigged up a temp shop fuel tank so I can get a look at the carbs while trying to start it. the temp tank had some clear line on it and I noticed the fuel was not getting sucked down into the system. Put the original pump back on (which I salvaged out of the trash because I had a feeling I might be needing it after reading a bunch of blogs and watching other carburetor videos). Lo and Behold! She was back to purring again! Just wanted to thank you for such a detailed video on carbs and specifically the same ones I was working on. Couldn't have done it without you and now I am a bit wiser on how to troubleshoot these. In all my years wrenching on cars and bikes with my dad, and I'm now 51, it was my first time tearing down and rebuilding carbs. He's still up north and I wish he could have been with me. But I'll get to show him when I take a ride up there. Can't thank you enough, sir.
My v star 1100 kept dieing like it was out if gas. Parked at home it had a big oil slick next to it. Oil smelled like gas. Put it on the jack and my clutch lever didn't spring back. Im no mechanic. You think the carb dumped gas in the oil, overheated the clutch and stuck? Maybe gas pushed oil out the bike from being too full? Thanks for the video.
So glad you mentioned to drain the oil and change filter after carbs flooding. Probably a gallon of fuel mixed in the oil. That was a surprise!! Thank You, much appreciated.
Excellent video. My 2005 RSV is flooding AFTER the bike starts. Replaced float seals and hardware. Bike runs great for a minute then it floods. Any idea what may cause this?Thank You
96 royal star tour star 1300, went through carbs , total cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner reassembled , had to replace 3 coils for misfire , all air cut offs working correctly, slide diagram’s good , mixture screws set 2 1/2 turns out , still running rich , carb tune sync gauge not up much from bottom at idle , replaced all leaking intake boots for leaking , still got it running rich , have not synced yet , skittle stumped
I have a 2001 1600 roadstar. I went to ajust the valve gap and notice. The rocker had a lot of play in it on the exhaust side front and rear cylinder. like the lift had bleeded down. I thought it was odd to be the same on front and rear on the exhaust side. No play, on the rocker on the front and rear cylinder on the intake side. What are your thoughts on this? The bike has over 30k on it, and It was not taken care of before I got it
NEVER.. EVER cut a gasket.. you just intentionally created a fail point that WILL LEAK. No silicone is impervious to gasoline either. Silicone has a molecular structure that is very stable overall at a wide range of temperatures and pressures, and its generally inert structure makes it safe for a range of applications from baby food to engine coolant. However, fuel and oil are some of the only substances that tend to break down this molecular structure, making it unreliable for use in your vehicle’s fuel lines. These substances tend to act as a solvent on your silicone, essentially dissolving it gradually.
Ive torn 1 carb apart and reseated everything. But the diaphram is not pushing the black cylinder and rod back into the middle when i push it. Is there a lube im supposed to put on that black cylinder? What have I missed?
