1. The weights are not the same when cold no mater what your number say. If you do not trust my test do your own. Store oil at -10 and pour through small funnel and see 5w40 is thicker. Very visible thicker not just tiny bit . 2. Operating temp is not the same winter and summer. That is completely stupid to even say. Fit an oil temp gauge and see. I fitted one so i see whats my oil temp and I also have one for water. 3. How do you know i did not conduct a scientific comparison? I actually came to this conclusion after years of experimentation. You do not have to follow my advice . Do what ever you want . Do your own testing. Fit your own temperature probes in oil pan and monitor in summer and winter and write tables and do flow tests and lubricity test on different temperature yourself like I done myself . Im not here to tell you what to think. And you are here in my youtube and should respect my opinion as mine.

I said in the video it did not consume oil . By that i mean that when i left I put new oil and new filter and i try to fill up to mid level between min and max . When I got in Ro i thought to check and was about the same level. So i did not add. So now that im back i check again since car stood over night and is relatively flat parked. I could say is about the middle still, maybe a tiny bit below but that can be to how level the car is. 1-2 mm is not relevant. I suppose it consumed like 2-3 ml . But that is normal of any engine at 6000 km . Well actually 7000 as we took a London trip too. So now i just ordered 2 botles of motul 5w30 as it was good price on it and the filters so i will change oil next week . Motul. Liqui M, shell, they all fine as long as u put bmw LL04 full synthetic and change at short intervals. I seen cars with this engine with 300k and still going well. Mine with 160k still got long to go. Enough to get me to next tech transition like a hydrogen car probably in next 10 years.

I seen dpf broken at 60k miles . I do not know why , i suppose some are made not so good. Or maybe the regeneration system fails. The entire system is very delicate, a bunch of sensors activating a regeneration that is like an after burner and that is suppose to work with exhaust pressure to push out the ash . To be honest it would have been a lot better if they made them as cartridge as on big trucks where dpf is removed and cleaned but this also has to do with planned failure. Just had a chat with a friend , he is mechanic at mercedes for 20 years. He say” now they go after cheaper car brands if they do not make car fail after the warranty period on purpose” so he say that mercedes attack legally other company that do not comply to make cars to brake down after warranty is over. This come from a company that build the w140 s class. Best car at the time in the world. Is insane. There is no way to know how fucked it is unless you clean it and then put it back and monitor the exhaust pressure . Is got a sensor that can be read with tester. You would have to drive it like a race car where u keep the tester on it and constantly monitor parameters.

Or considering that the system does nothing good for your car anyway just remove and delete and do not stress about it. Even if u find out that the dpf is bad or regen is bad who cares. You can not fix it anyway . No matter what you will still have to delete it anyway. Buy a new dpf will buy you time but in a few months you will be back where u started. Seen it before at others.

@@mihairadupop2491 okay cool man I will delete DPF and see how healthy the car seems to run from then on. It’s a real shame this is by far the most enjoyable car I’ve ever owned to drive but it seems like it’s been neutered by bullshit socialist technology, my first diesel so it’s a learning curve for me.

Depinde cum l o grijit. Poate sa duca inca pe atat daca e ingrijit bine . A meu nu are probleme

Make sure glow plugs are new and injectors work well . Also do a intake manifold clean and valve blasting with nut shells , and air mass sensor clean with that special spray for maf. After you do all then change oil and filter and do not forget to block the egr.

Yes you need to remove the dpf. Pipe or gutted is the same as long as you can pass inspection with the pipe is ok if you need to make it look like it still has dpf then removed , cut, empty -weld back to look original. Do not know requirements in your area . In uk need to look original. Yes you also need a good remap and block egr. You need that even just from modify exhaust as all your output pressures are off the scale now. I personally do not recommend what you doing to a 2 litre engine with 2 turbo . You decrease the life of the engine a lot and will have to consider it like being racing motor do 3000 k oil changes with double ester and pre warm up and cooling down . Is doable but you need to understand thats not build like my m57 with inline 6 and oversized piston rods and made to take huge abuse. Is made a lot more on a budget . Not designed to be abused as i think you intend . It will get expensive for you. I can recommend dpf delete in Preston tell me if u want here. If you done exhaust u must do it all now . Depending how you drive it thats how much it will last and how you do oil and what oil you will put. Look at red line oil .

35 mpg city and like 43 highway

Delete and empty completely and make it like a sport exhaust inside. That is a very expensive car to look after. And with a terrible low resale value. I do not know why you chose that but is not a very good car. Maybe a rav 4 would have been better choice as an suv. Much better vehicle.

@@mihairadupop2491 Thanks for your response .The car is booked for DPF-EGR-Adblue removal after tomorrow.My mechanic said he will not completely empty the DPF but will drill it but of course deleted from the ECU. I hope the car will be fine after that.The car just serviced and new glow plugs fitted 6 months ago .should be no prob with Smoke I hope .

@@mypackedlunch7654 you can not drill that shit . Is a honey comb structure and before toward the turbine is a steel mesh. The honey comb come out in one piece if u cut and remove. It fragments and brakes is not like a piece of wood. He does that because is easy not to take off and weld it . Side walk repair

It is a very hard job. Only experienced mechanic would recommend for this . You will need to keep car off the road for a few days. Put penetrant oil and ease them and put more and ease some more . Is something you do not touch unless you got the tools and know exactly what you doing as you brake them in and then is hard to get out

@@mihairadupop2491 I see it makes sense ..... I do really want to change them but I guess I'll have to hold off until I can find someone extremely knowledgeable in that field .

@@munimuni5168 might be surprised but all it take is a good drill and an extractor kit. Is not expensive to get the tools but the experience to do it without damage to block . Thats hard to find. The guy who has the hand for the job and the balls to drill it out just right. I learned in the old days how . It takes a lot of practice but is doable . Must find old maister who still alive and has the skill.

@@mihairadupop2491 that is grest information to know. Thank you for explaining it to me . Makes even more sense why BMW themselves don't even want to take on this job for me .

@@munimuni5168 they do not have mechanics , they have part swappers . Go look at their hands … says it all

Well my bmw has 170k mikes and still going strong, no smoke and no oil consumption , no bad sounds just nice purr . I think i let my car talk for itself of how bad it was to save it 4 years ago .

Fix asa si la mine. Daca ai facut treaba buna cum am zis si arata tot original nu ar trebui sa ai probleme.

What color is the smoke ? Does it do it under load like accelerating going up hill or also at idle?

@@mihairadupop2491 a bit dark colour, smoke comes out after ordinary driving, no crazy acceleration 😅trying to drive on high gare

@@mihairadupop2491 I does smoke, on idle

@@Robis8721 then you have engine problem, low compression , bad injectors, pcv valve . One of them . It should not smoke at all .

@@Robis8721 have your engine compression checked, take off injectors send them to calibration and cleaning . Put new pcv valve , clean the manifold , also did you block the egr ? If u did not that also causes a lot of smoke. Make sure egr is blanked out .

Am fost in Ro odata. Nu s-a intamplat nimic deosebit. Nu prea vad ce s-ar intampla ca are itp si asigurare valabile.

@@mihairadupop2491 am înțeles mersi, miercuri am programare să-mi scot ambele și o să am de făcut și mot și sper să treacă oricum find ca o să fie golit dpf ul și blocat egr și din ecu.

Ar fi bine sa duci cu tine toate actele listate, certificat mot, asigurare , cartea aia colorata cu seria masinii , eu am pus si o dovada bancara cum ca am platit taxa pe ea aci sa se vada clar ca i masina mea si are toate la zi. La mine nu ai cum sa vezi ca e dpf si egr delete. Ca fizic ele is acolo . Daca te bagi sub masina vezi dpf asa cum e de fabrica. Nu ca ai putea sa incapi sub masina dar se vede si daca ridici capota. La fel si egr. Eu am lucrat in asa fel incat sa arata ca si cum tot e original. N am tuning pe ea , tot e cum a iesit pe usa fabricii. Tot ce am is geamuri fumurii dar numai in spate. Nici nu as vrea sa am in fara , is cea mai mare tampenie ca nu vezi afara cand e noapte sau ploua. Plus ca sincer ce tuning sa faci 😂 e un coupe diesel nu un M6 … ar fi mega penibil sa incep sa pun stickere si rahaturi pe ea. Curat si frumos, vopsea spalata si ceruita, original tot. Pana si adaptarea pt muzica pe telefon am facut si aia ca nu vezi aparent nimic. Tot e ascuns in consola. Intreba careva aici daca fumega in acceleratie . Nu. Nici vorba. Nici daca o duc la 4000 de ture. Pt ca motoru meu e in stare excelenta . Injectoarele la fel . Masina fumega daca ai probleme numai. Nu conteaza cate mile ai, eu am 160 mii !!! Da i fac mentenanta si reparatii asa cum trebe , ma refer la calibrare injectie, curatare valve, schimb ulei 4000 mile max. La fiecare 6 luni merge pe rampa verific tot , schimb daca trebe ceva. Sincer daca te uiti la ea sau te dai cu ea si nu stii ca are 15 ani nu ai putea sa iti dai seama. Nu suna nimic aiurea, nu is plastice zgariate, scaunele is ca noi ca le-am refacut. Orice sa poate intretine daca vrei. Piese sunt. Timp si chef sa fie.

No

Very high risk of them brake and go into engine. I removed mine.

If your engine good condition it does not

@@mihairadupop2491 smoke isnt a bad thing that means the soot u have in the car will go out

You need a new regulator . Not the cable . The cable fits as it is.

Mine is just like yours and has the regulator next to the oil filter. You only added the cable to chart your battery?

@@GooniesKFA no, i swapped the regulator as the original one does not have voltage output

I purchased one from yamaha for about 150 gbp and changed it. Is just 1 bolt and 1 rapid plug

You go buy an auxiliary bluetooth adapter , a good one . You plug it in the aux port in the arm rest and you run the cables from the lighter as is the closest. You can also do a usb charger since you at it. I ll make a more detailed video and explain.

It passes no problem

Lol , 170 k miles on mine still going strong 😁

Am dar e in Preston. Nu stiu cat e de departe pentru tine. Daca nu are nici o problema i-as face doar o curatare generala. Ar trebui analizat presiunea inainte si dupa

@@mihairadupop2491 Salut. Da, mă gândeam un control de rutină și după aceea dacă e cazul și am probleme, să mă apuc de Delete DPF, EGR și Adblue 😂 Mulțumesc mult.

I mean that is what i say in video man. You delete egr and block it

Да здравствует матушка Россия

In ce sens mai zgomotos ? Suieratu ala de turbina ?

Tucson is a very poor quality car. I think probably worst car in it’s class with a name on the market for major engine problems. Thats why the price for it second hand is also very low. If you gain mid to max on stick oil level that is like 0.5 liters. That is insanely high and means your engine will get major wear if you drive it. It probably already has developed significant wear as that oil is way thinner than it should be and does not keep the temp viscosity being full of diesel. I would do a dpf delete in software, gut it , block the egr because it not blocked the gasses go and damage the throttle body. Is free to block it , is just a metal blank on the pipe from the exhaust to egr. And then do a glow plug removal and compression test. Based on that i would decide if i keep it or sell it fast. If you drove it with that much diesel on oil for long is probably damaged already. It can also be a bad pressure sensor doing all of this . But if that the case the dpf is already damaged as a result . And if this the case might get away with a good clean. I suppose who ever is your mechanic did check the sensor. Should have. Cat can stay usually the holes are big enough to evacuate all the crap . Cut a bit of the noise. Unless you want to sound like a F16 jet fighter

Thanks for your reply@@mihairadupop2491 This is the first issue with the car in 7yrs, so far I loved it but this problem is driving me nuts. Since the first intermittent exhaust system fault came on, I maybe only drove 200 miles, then had it in for a service and fault check (fault log was clear!), had the oil replaced obviously as part of the service but didn't check the level before emptying, had the fault come back up again twice and had 2 forced regenerations done and checked the oil level again finding it above max level, during this time maybe we drove the car for a max 150miles. Had the oil replaced again, took it to a dpf specialist and back (max 20miles) and found the oil level from mid to just above Full again. Car is not being used for the time being obviously. Hopefully the issue is only related to the dpf and the ECU trying to do multiple regeneration during this period but I am worried this is too much diesel in only 20miles, is it possibly only due to the dpf?! The guy is confident it is not a sensor issue as the readings are stable, just not within the normal parameters and there's soot at the end of the exhaust pipe which shouldn't be there with a functioning dpf. Regarding the dpf delete, I am not sure about the relationship with the EGR. If not mistaken the air into the EGR is not post dpf no? Meaning that without the dpf it would not mean that the EGR would be getting crappier quality air that is fed back into the combustion chamber no? I would be worried about the PM matter and the smell giving it away during the MOT. And regarding your suggestion to do a compression test, is this to ascertain that no damage was done due to the diesel diluted oil? Thanks mate

@@claytonfarrugia9809 so i ll try to take this stuff one at a time. First i said compression because you said you ran engine with diluted oil that has diesel in it. Is not expensive to do a test and you should replace your glow plugs anyway at 40 k before they get carbon up and seized and then they brake in the engine when you try remove them. Eventually one will die and if is never been removed is very high chance it can brake inside. And is really hard to fix that and expensive. So change the glow plugs and since you at it do a test . If you say is sure not sensor problem than is the car trying to regenerate and fuel is so rich that it mixes with the oil. Also you say yourself that tail pipes are smoked and dark. They should not be. Should be clean silver metal not greasy dark and smoke like some sort of black goo. If you have that on the pipes your dpf is clogged as hell. Your pressure on exhaust is way too high and ecu tries to regenerate but dumps fuel into the oil instead. I know from experience washing dpf does not fix it. Most people who washed come back 6 month later is clogged again. I do not understand well what you mean with the egr. I made a video explain why you need to block it. See that. Read the functionality of how it works and you will understand why it needs to be blocked. You are probably among 50 people asking this. Why i have to block the egr. Thats why i made a video can not text every single person . Do research if you wish. Or just take my word for it . I payed 350 on a new throttle body because i did not block it at first. I learned on my own money. And i made a video and explained.

@@claytonfarrugia9809 look up what erg means. Is exhaust recirculation gases . Is a valve that put exhaust into your intake admission to lower combustion temperature to lower pollution and allow for lower emissions. What are you talking “ egr does not put crap air “” ??? What crap air . Is all crap is from the exhaust. Is like eating your own farts. Look at the pipe on your engine is coming from the exhaust directly and goes into the damn egr. Thats why they full of carbon and fail all the time. Look you need to read about the function of it to understand why it needs block. As your car it is now, is a lawn decoration. You cannot drive it . So you do dpf delete like i done and use it or you spend money to fix all that need to be fixed and have a dpf. It is possible but will cost very much. At 7 years old and for a tucson it will cost more than the car is worth. And yes i stand by my word. You do 40 k in 7 years. I do that in 1 year. Does not change the fact is rated as one of the worst made cars . Actually from 4 years i made this channel you are the first one in all the people posting here to say you have dpf failure at 40 k !!!! The lowest i seen was like 80 k . Look do not be upset. I am not picking on you . This is not sponsored or payed i just told you the truth for free. Is about cars is not personal to you. I don’t even know who you are.

@@mihairadupop2491 thanks, believe me I saw all of your vids :) and I saw a lot of informative videos these days. Not upset with any comments, they are much appreciated into helping me troubleshoot the issue and not just throw away more money (which is what makes me upset!) I just wanted to confirm that technically the EGR is not directly related to the DPF system, so deleting the one or another won't affect each other technically. I understand that the function of the EGR means supplying the engine with polluted (full of contaminants including diesel) air instead of clean fresh air but not directly related to the DPF system. I was told DPF burn/damage is a frequent issue with this engine! My problem is that I cannot understand how it is possible that you have 0.5lt or more of diesel contamination in the oil after only 20miles just from a dpf clogging and frequent regen attempts, is this even possible with back to back regen cycles that there is so much contamination? Can it be a possible injector (or seal) issue coupled with the dpf?

What do you mean do your car ? If you mean the dpf job . I do not do dpf jobs for money. I did my car because is mine. I am willing how ever to show you how to do it yourself. This is a help channel for other bmw owners not marketing for a garage. I am not charging people money for the help . Is free.

Yes obviously I will pay, I need the egr and dpf delete as I don't have the tools. Where are you based?

@@maq3121 07539 032867 text me on whatsapp and i ll explain . You do not seem to understand what i explain to you. Is easy for me to give you a call when i have a cup of coffee and just tell you. Im in Lancaster

I suggest you find some proper mechanic for this and change every 30k. There is a kit and the bottom part of the gear box is being dropped. You can do yourself too if qualified. How ever I would not flush it. I mean do not use those machines that push fluid with pressure. I change gear oil in all the cars. Even in manual one, the ford van. All oil is getting worn no matter if manual or auto . That life time oil is absolute bullshit. I seen for example in my wife's smart , got that car with 50 k and changed oil. It was dirty as hell. Anyway I did notice that the 635d if has proper oil intervals at 4-5k and 30 k gear box is a very long lasting car. I got now 165k miles. No oil consumption car goes perfect. But I do admit i baby the car a lot. Still drive it sporty but only after full warm up.

@@mihairadupop2491 I like your videos no bullshit and I agree with a lot of the stuff you said I’m just working on a 53 5D at the moment. I have mechanical knowledge thank you for your input

Check my video, I I took a 535 DM sport on autobahn was cruising at 140 miles an hour 120 miles an hour across the whole of Germany, while doing 31 miles per gallon, amazing engine

@@RSADYNAMICS i will look. Yes i agree a lot of car for what value it has today. In UK my 635 d is worth like 5k. 😂 not that im gonna sell it but heck man is a lot car for this money your getting.

@@mihairadupop2491 I don’t blame you Mann if you did a video on gearbox oil for the M57 I’m sure that video would be popular. I enjoy watching or listening to your videos. What’s the top speed of your 635 have you ever tested it on the autobahn?

I suggest you watch all the videos related to dpf if you have time . I added more info slowly as situation developed over the years. Over all is a good thing to remove it. Most cases.

It was actually a bad glow plug 😂 i had to change it later

1 cal, nu iti da putere in plus doar face motoru sa mearga cum trebuie. Senzatia e ca ai vreo 25% da in realitate asa ar trebui sa fie .

Did you removed dpf, or just soft off?? Got e91 330xd and think about it ..thanks

@@chodidlo it was previous owners job, generally I have ecology removed but catalyst converter stayed, I highly recommend this procedure, car behaves like petrol in city, gets to temp faster

Just about the same as my ford custom thats 2021 and has dpf . Bit worse but not a lot . About 30 % more

@@mihairadupop2491 great thanks! Finally some useful info. Thinking about deleting It on my G7 GTD // 2.0 TDI

@@eden4949 you put original one and rebuild engine or you delete. If you put aftermarket and not fix engine in 3 months your back with same problem.

In a second video later i said exactly what you said here. It was my first video on youtube, just got it fixed and gaining my power back felt grate. Is no power increase as you say. I clarified in later videos about the car.

They are shit boots and expensive . I will never buy again .