Came in mooching a few ideas for my latest project , liked the music , are those linear bearings ? Had similar idea using MC fork legs , what ever lies around ! Subbed
Hello there, thanks for taking the time to do this awesome video! I'm about to do the same rear subframe refresh on my 406 Estate and this was very cool and useful to watch. I just wanted to comment that all tightening specs were in agreement with the Haynes manual except for two of them. In Haynes is says "Upper arm: Inner pivot bolt: 95 Nm , Outer pivot bolt: 75 Nm" (this is the thin suspension arm passing near the spring, shown at 5:45). Assuming the Haynes manual is correct, you might have gotten the two values switched up. This might be valuable for anyone like us who want to follow the brand specs for maximum safety. Thanks again !
Thank you for this. I am looking to get this done . But I am not sure if mine is the 77mm or 100mm shaft. Is there a way to find out without taking the oil sump off? Its a 2008 VW Touran 2.0 Tdi with BMN pd engine 170 hp
Loving what I see, so far, and based on that I subbed after only partial viewing, for craftsmanship, ambition, and engineering! Only this: at 3:20, could thee not have taken up so much of the slop with only a few nylon zip ties around those lugs? Or even simply tapped the existing lugs, without rebuilding? I find that I must constantly struggle with my own compulsion to complicate, as I plan and daydream. No question, though, thy solution is rock solid and foolproof.
How are you my friend? I would like to ask you a question: I have a Focus Passat TDI2.0 2008 diesel , you have removed the oil filter and washed it with diesel and you have completed the installation process! I started the car, the red oil light appeared, and the brakes became very hard and no longer stopped the car!! Can you help me please
How did you connect the pipes together? I will have to replace the high pressure one that connect to the condenser as the connector was seized and it snapped when I tried to disconnect it.. but how to connect the replacement pipe on the other side?
Hi mate just wondering if u have all 10 videos I can get them as Iam in the middle of doing a similar project or even some pointers with what wires and hoses to disconnect in the engine bay
I was looking for dimensions for the standard brake press dies/punches so I can design something with a similar concept but I couldn't find anything. Could you point me to the right direction?
Top job a hit with a flapper wheel and a bit of paint she'll look better than factory but even though its far stronger that a factory one some of these dickhead engineers that need to inspect it so it can pass a roadworthy would knock it back and these guys cant even weld its a big money grab. keep up the top work.
Regarding just changing the hex key as opposed to the drive unit. Basically if the key is slightly worn a new key gives you a decent life of use. If the key is really bad then a new key is likely to wear quickly again. Its your choice!
looking at the prices for the sizes of steel he used he mightve been better off buying a full size stand alone fingerbrake (though this on is able to bend thicker steel)