Each week inside The Build Room we'll tackle various aspects of working on cars and other fun projects. Currently working on an 2020 A90 Toyota Supra and a 1976 RA23 Toyota Celica with much more to come.
Its not really a how to or training series, and I'm in no way certified so don't take it as gospel but I'll try to cover off on the issues I run into so you can learn from my many amusing mistakes tooling around in the garage.
We'll be tearing things down and building them back up including cutting, welding, painting, swapping engines, suspension, wheels and more. Sometimes it'll be a complete win and other times a massive fail - hope you'll join us on the ride.
If you want to know more go to thebuildroom.com and check it out. Thanks for stopping by!
I need help. I get mixed reviews from everybody. I’m looking to buy a skyline r34 with automatic transmission non turbo this is the engine it has RB25DE NEO with 61,400 miles. With no mods Would it be good for a daily drive?
That's a really subjective questions, depends on how far you're driving, road condition in your area, what your tolerance is day to day for 90s era cars. It 100% could be fine for daily driving, I'd daily driven mine for a while and even with the annoying loud aftermarket exhaust and bad transmission its still quite bearable, but long term I'll end up turning it into a weekend and get a new x3 or something for a daily cause I'm getting old and love the mod cons of newer cars.
I love your skyline guides I’m getting a r34 hopefully by the end of September how’s the reliability on this I’m getting the same one, with the automatic transmission
My auto trans is not great - seems to slip a bit and they have issues with solenoids over time. I wouldn't say they're particularly problematic if you get one that's in decent condition to start.
Hey! Love your videos, I was watching the rust repair video before this and was curious what rust converter you use? It looks water based, but wondering what brand if you’re able to share
The one i used in the previous vid was KBS Rust Blast, its a water based convertor specially designed to go under the KBS rust seal, normally i just use a phosphoric acid based one by GPI as its cheap and available in 1lt bottles
What sort of filters? I'm looking to improve the air filtration on mind because it sits so close to where I work and I don't have a lot of room to move it.
@@TheBuildRoom I used two *Solberg FS-06-050 Filter Silencers.* About $22 each on Amazon. They work great but they're rather large. They might be a pretty tight squeeze in your compressor.
Looks like California Air. I think CA is letting their stuff be rebranded for Harbor Freight. I have had a number of their compressors and been very happy with them.
Great looking wheels! Amazing how well they fit. Love the 3D printer. Greatest invention of our time. Gives us little guys the ability to fabricate at a greater level! Love how you think all the upgrades properly while maintaining the era correct mods.
I’m running 8” fronts with a zero offset and don’t need a spacer and 9” on the back with a -13 offset but I had to roll the guards One thing I found was the fronts rubbed on the inner guard on turn until I had the castor adjusted
Yeah that a big increase in scrub radius doing that, used to be something you'd just fix with a large hammer but these cars a too rare to beat on them like that anymore! What size tires are you running front and back?
Love what you have done with those wheels, for some reason they really suit the shape of the car. Great to see you using technology to make the bits you just cannot buy. Nice centre caps. Inspired me to do something similar. Had you considered using PET-G filament for its impact resistance?
I think ASA has a slightly higher deformation point form heat, and better UV resistance apparently (I'm no expert) so I figured it was better for this application.
It's kind of creepy that I grew up in that suburb & recognise all the houses during your drive. You even drove past a house I lived in when I was 4 years old. I import parts for one of my cars from the UK & if it's $1 over $1000 I get stung with 20% on the total cost including postage. 10% import duty & 10% GST. I wish my suppliers sucked at paperwork as I just got stung $341 taxes for an exhaust manifold.
@@TheBuildRoom my rear Wats are 14x8 -6. So that’s going to be tricky as the poke is much more than yours. May have to settle with 225 or 235 if I can get them.
Ecxelente trabajo Yo tengo un poyecto igual Celica ra 22 gt Me podra recomendar una pagina Para comprar refacciones .en estados unidos. Y embiar a panama. Se lo agradeceria Gracias amigo
If you're looking for just general consumable parts you can try RockAuto in the US, and if you want Celica specialist stuff you can look at ToyHeadAuto
I'm still thinking about wheel choices. Didn't consider importing from the US. I've got to make sure I get the specs right though, because I can't run spacers. The build is coming along nicely, and is going to look sick once you lower it to your intended ride height!
Thanks - yeah lots of people aren't comfortable with spacers (including the cops) - so you're either swapping them around when someone notices or pretty significantly reduce in terms of options. It is however worth reaching out to some of the companies you're interested in getting wheels from for custom offset. Even some of the cheaper places order wheels in that start off as a universal casting which are then machined down, they can sometimes request a set get machined to a specific offset for you (I did this for my old RA23).
That was a new tank 🤣 The oil cooler split shortly after the new tank was fitted and it stained the whole thing. It will be replaced again shortly just because it looks so horrible.
Nice review mate. How does the compressor stack up so far with your sand blaster? Running a blaster is my main selection criteria. On paper it should stack up. What model blaster are you running? Thanks.
Can't really talk to sandblaster capability as I can't seem to get a gun running effectively with media where i am - nothing seems to reliably fire media so hard to tell if I'm outrunning the compressor or what. I've tried black ridge, ozito and a hare & forbes basic blasting cabinet. What are you using? All mine are cheap but haven't found anyone suggesting home blasters that are dependable so didn't want to throw more money at it until its more of a known quantity.
@@TheBuildRoomI've only used industrial sized units fed by 3 Phase compressors. The last one was only 15cfM FAD @100 psi with a approx 300L receiver. It was a bit marginal but did the job. The claimed FAD of the hush 150 is 14.5 cfm at 100psi which I would have thought would enough for 'consumer' blasters and their smaller nozzles. Begs the question: what is the ACTUAL delivery of the hush 150? Can you get your hands on a flow meter? That would be a very interesting measurement!
Great work again Cam, well done. Looking forward to next ep on wheels and tyres. I have squeezed 205 60R 14 (x7 MA61 Supra rims, 8mm offset) on to my RA23 with the help of a RN25 Hilux axle on the rear, 25mm spacers, and BC coilovers on the front with 2.5 degrees negative camber dialled in. 15 x 6 (20 mm offset) MZ20 Soarer rims fit, and if you can find any 8 inch rims with 0 to -4mm offset, they will fit too.
Thanks Mitch - wheel episode is film and almost finished the editing so hoping you guys will be able to see it on friday. It's subjective but I'm super excited about how the car is looking on them.
Nothing ground breaking, just get as many knuckles, extensions and flexis as you can and try and build something up. Remove as much as you can around it too.
@@TheBuildRoom thanks, i think im going to have to remove the coolant reservoir today to get at it better. Car just hit 90k and probably past due for a flush anyways.
Hi bit late but i just ask: At 12:29 you talking about throttle cut out in low throttle. Did you manage to solve that? I had/have similiar problem on 20GT. I replace the TPS sensor. It helped a ton but it is not 100%. You can still feel the "cut out" specialy on 4th-5th gear. It is not everytime but it is still there. One thing that changed with new TPS is that the idle is now higher(above 950rpm) and even slight movement with steering wheel causes to pull up rpm and you can hear some pull/push air "thing" going in the engine bay(IACV trying to compensate??) Could the IACV be bad? I have second one to replace it(doing it next week)
Lots of different things that my cause that - TPS is one, IACV could also be impacting if its not working. How confident are you with the calibration of the TPS also as that is a big deal. If you replaced the TCS and cleaned the IACV you need to do the calibration on idle too. It's a week after you made your comment (sorry I've been flat out) so how did it go after the IACV swap?
I have the same Lincoln Welder, using argon/c02 mix the MiG settings it gives automatically for thin sheet metal I feel are way to hot, what settings did you use? and are you running .6 or .8 wire size?
Great job. 28 Really coming together now. I managed to get full sills for mine and the lower part of the quarter panel was part of them. Saved a ton of work. Look forward to your next instalment.
Yeh I've just been picked up in that before because it's in the sills which is considered main structure by some, but it's really dependant on the guy inspecting. Normal body rust is not that big of a deal
Helpful video, just done my rack. You don’t need a tool to get the seal out though, you can knock it out from the pinion side with a socket and extension 🤙🏻
Wasn't enough left on my seal to catch the edge with a socket, but good info for people that might not have too much wear and can get it out an easier way 👍👍
@@TheBuildRoom I wonder if I have a didn’t rack version to you because mine had a thick metal washer behind the inner seal which is what helped me knock the seal out from the other side 🤷🏻♂️
Wow, didn't pop up in my feed. Noticed I hadn't seen a video for a while and searched the build room and found this! The other problem is I think you have another project instead of a doner! Great episode ad always.
Great video. I had already watched before we bought our R34. When we got out and found it had the issue I know just where to go. Question . Did you come up with a solution for the buttons that were coming off?
Glad it helped. For the buttons, the only solution was to replace them - you can still get some of the buttons new from Nissan (use Amayama to order) but it's the luck of the draw as to whether your broken buttons are still stocked or not i guess.
Shoot, I just caw on eof your shirts someone was wearing on Instagram and went to your site to order one. Welp, hopefully a more economically viable print on demand option comes up in the future.
Appreciate the support, if the channel grows a bit more I'll look into a store that's a bit more financially sustainable for those that are interested.
was 170,000 kms (~105,000 miles) - most reports i've heard is that's about the average lifespan as like everything BMW the tight bearing tolerances eventually catch up with it.
One should avoid the use of any alkaline (caustic) cleaner on aluminum. I have used Citranox detergent with excellent results. It is a corrosion inhibited citric acid cleaner.
FOR BEST RESULTS *** DO NOT LET THE BASKET OR PARTS TOUCH THE BOTTOM OR SIDES . If you suspend them in the tank you get much better results. Imagine a tuning fork, if you restrict the movement it won’t vibrate properly .
