A historical firearms channel. I review deals, firearms, and the historical significance of them. I also show my projects which I am working on / repairing. This is a passion project and I only want to share and spread information upon these firearms. I do NOT sell any firearms, nor will I.
Did you ever try firing this and seeing if it would stabilize a projectile? I have one as well, it certainly has more rifling than yours, but is pitted throughout.
Beautiful very historical weapon. Immortal rifle is been made to last, modern weapons there one time use with cheap qualitys. Well done. I have the same converted to 12 gauge shotgun, is working like an artillery piece.
Bro, these rifle goes for stupid money in Iraq, like retarded stuped money. I know because back when I was there living, collectors were alwayes hunting for that sweet "JEEM" stock markings like crazy with a truck loads of forgaries in those markets. I don't know how much pay and in value and maintanance you put on this old beauty, I know you didn't pay enough. Trust!!!
I bought one, good rifling, good body the only missing part is the rear sights but I am not going to buy one because the Ethiopians removed it from the rifle.
i like the fact you have some ethiopian writing on yours. i just got one from rti from the most recent sale but no ethiopian markings. mine also has a nail repair at the wrist. where were you going to source your parts? mine is missing the front barrel band with sling. thanks tim
Your serial number is 7243 from Terni, I have VL 5633 from Terni, also dated 1916. My M91 I found in a barn in Vermont in the 1990's. My rifle has a square threaded nut at the back of the bolt instead of a rounded type, which may have been made from an old carriage bolt nut? I wish I new the history of my gun, but suspect that it was likely a bring back from WWII or perhaps WWI? There were lots of Italian immigrants that moved to Central Vermont that worked in the granite quarries, including my own family which came to VT in the 1880's to carve granite. The riffling in my barrel is nearly mint, which may indicate it was a WWI bring back piece. I took a PPU 139 grain bullet and only part of the lead went into the end and I can see a beautiful bore. In my case the stock was shortened a little but has the end barrel band and top wood piece. Thirty years ago, I paid $75.00 for this great piece of history.
Couldn't you load a cartridge using something like triple7 or another black powder substitute? Or would that not provide enough pressure to ensure the bullet left the barrel.
@@Sure_You_Betcha i recently got one very very similar to how this one is. same year and everything. id like to shoot it but havent had a chance to do any research on loading for it.
@justanelite as a general rule, it seems the rule of thumb is just down load the smokeless powder... Either no one else has had the idea to use a black powder su substitute or the idea just doesn't work for some reason I am unaware of.
I got one of the ones for 139 and it was in excellent shape. Near mint bore. 1942 date. Im glad i bought it. Came with a cleaning rod too. Only issue was wood was stripped for the buttplate screw but i fixed it with a wood dowel. I bought another one from dk and asked for a ww1 or earlier. They sent me a very nice 1914 dated early bayonet lock
Nice! Can't beat that from the RTI roulette! and I've thought about buying from DK, but never have. Will have to at some point though with the sounds of your nice example!
@@worldofthearms6976 i believe dk is out of stock. They may have bayonets tho. Rti is having the 99$ sale or 139$ for very good,excellent for memorial day. U may want to jump on it
I too got /have an R.T.I. carcono. I got my around Christmas time, got it for $129.00. Mine is also beautiful same maker and same year as well. It's was hard to beat that price for a well preserved WWII rifle, have some beautiful one, this is one more for my growing collection, nice channel brother ❤
Cool rifles, I love Czech stuff and have a ton of milsurps from there. I got a Romanian contract Vz. 24 from Rguns years ago for about 350 and it looks nearly unissued, maybe it was or was arsenal refurbished at some point. Only bad part is no crest on it... If you don't have one, the MTM gunsmith maintenance center is a pretty good rifle cleaning/maintenance vise if you don't want to spend a whole lot. You can do quite a bit with it for how cheap it is. I have more heavy duty ones but I find myself using that one a ton since it's shaped like a big tub and has a few slots for parts and stuff. It's worth its weight in gold to not have a rifle slip out from under you while you put a big gouge in the finish and stock with your screwdriver!
Not sure if you've done it yet but definitely put some reinforcement in that Carcano stock repair. I don't know if just acraglass will cut it. I'd use some threaded metal rod or at least some strong wood dowels. I'd like to see what you end/ended up doing with that. I had a similar break on a 1916 Spanish Mauser in 7.62 NATO and I used 3 brass screws. I'd do it differently if I had it to do over since I didn't drill it in a way that would cinch the two halves together when I put the screws in. It is holding but could have been stronger. Anvil channel has a great vid on a bad break like that and he does an amazing job.
The carbine looks great after the clean up & nice that it had the cleaning rod with it . I finally acquired the first version of the bayonet locking system that they used .
Yeah, for sure! I was just shocked! And, I have never lucked out on getting any besides the button style. I've kinda got an itch to collect all Carcano's in all variations now!
@@worldofthearms6976 I have 9 Carcano’s so far . The clips for them are kind of a pain , they have the brass & steel . I have , I guess 6 clips , what I noticed with mine is the difference on the last round being chambered . On a couple of my clips it causes that round to nose up and have to start bolting forward , then push it down to chamber , on other clips that does not happen , the last round chambers with no problem . At some point I still want to acquire some of the TS variations . Look forward t a shooting video , when you can find some ammo
I got one from ClassicFirearms like little over a year ago. (I paid around $250 for mine after shipping/FFL Transfer/Hand-Select fees, so you did a little better than I did!) mine has the same type bayonet-button as yours, my stock has about the same amount of dings/chips/scratches/etc., maybe a LITTLE better condition than yours, but not by that much (it’s marked 1942, Brescia) also the rifling in the bore is still pretty good! but it was super dirty when I got it. I had to soak it in a mixture of hot water/solvent, and then clean the heck out of it. After I got it cleaned, my next mission was to find clips and ammo. (The ammo is stupid-expensive, but it’s so worth it to get the experience of shooting the carbine. I currently have about 120 rounds of 6.5x52 . I get my ammo from Sellier&Bellot, (you want to get the lighter projectiles, because the rifle loads don’t always stabilize from the carbines, and will keyhole after like 50 yards. Ask me how I know 🤦🏽♂️) I currently have 3 of the enbloc clips-2 steel, 1 brass. In my opinion-just buy the steel ones.. they cost less, and they seem to work better. All in all, I’m very pleased with my Carcano Carbine!
Nice! I mean in all honesty, any functioning milsurp for around $250 is a great deal! I don't think you did bad at all! Atleast you didn't get a clunker. I get you on the ammo part. I have bought a few boxes of PPU in the past, but they have undersized bullets. I finally picked up a few boxes of Casto's Curio's 6.5 Carcano to shoot. I haven't shot it yet, but it's the correct bullet diameter and weight. Should finally be able to accurately shoot my Carcano's. I'll have to try and find some S&B ammo like you have and try it sometime! And yeah, I've only ever used steel clips with my Carcano's. I was always afraid the brass ones weren't that great.
Yeah, for sure! I was dumbfounded! I can only imagine how pricey they could be. I know the 1891 rifle cleaning rods are harder to find, and more than $100.
Thanks! Yes, I was dumbfounded by the cleaning rod! I got 7 various Carcano's, and this one is about the best one to cycle. My 1891 rifle is probably the best, because you get alot more leverage with a straight bolt handle. But out of my 6 various carbines, it's the best one of the bunch. I was super impressed by this one! About 2 of my Carcano's are also kinda junk lol. Gotta repair them yet!
@@worldofthearms6976 Ya i have a couple of videos on rifles from Hunters Lodge .. kinda waiting for it to warm up a bit.. still cold out in the MAN CAVE. THANKS for showing your RTI rifle.
Hi, I don't understand what you expect from rifles that have been fired in a war, and that have been who knows how many times thrown on the ground and piled up in Ethiopian warehouses. they haven't been in an armory for 100 years, there's no way they're in pristine condition.
I'm not expecting any firearms from RTI to be perfect. My only issue with this one is that they wire wheeled the finish off. Other than that I'm happy for an 1891 for less than three hundo
Very cool...they are fun projects. I did one of the P53's a few years back. It was in better shape than yours but was still a lot of work. The Brown Bess is coming along and I'll be interested to see how yours turns out. Enjoy!
For sure! Really?, I had to go back and take a look! Will you ever do a follow-up video on the P53? I would really be interested in seeing that! Ever since you released your first Brown Bess video, I knew I wanted one badly. Luckily they must've had some in the warehouse saved for this past Black Friday. They seemed to sell out of the Brown Bess kits right after I ordered. As always, I like seeing your projects and such!
That is actually a nice looking P53 for the Nepal cache. Most are in pretty rough shape and missing the butts. The Nepalese also ripped off the nose caps and buttplates to sell the brass. Be careful with the repro stock. I heard the wood on it can chip easily if you use a chisel to shave down the wood to fit. The Nepalese marked brown bess locks are supposedly European made. When taking apart the locks I highly recommend you use a lock spring clamp. You can buy them from places like the rifle shoppe. You don't want to risk damaging the lock springs.
Thanks! Yeah its not all too terrible. Atleast I did get a buttstock. That makes sense with the nose caps and buttplates. Thanks for the tips on the repro stock. I will have to take my time on it! And really? I never thought the locks would be European made. Yes I have thought about getting a lock spring clamp. Like you said, I don't want to damage the springs! As always, thanks for the info, interest, and comments in my videos. Helps greatly!
Thank you! Nice! I wish mine wasn't wire wheeled. I'd say you got a better one even though your finish is is about the same. But still I agree, a good deal 👍
You are correct that even the .264 bullets shouldn't be swallowed. Just compared some .264s on both of my Carcanos and they did go in further than the .268s, but not very far
Yeah I definitely had to try my PPU rounds on my other Carcano's and non of them swallowed the round like my long rifle did. I will have to get or make some .268's Thanks for watching and thanks for the info! comment!
I picked a M91 Carbine Carcano both RTI and Classic Firearms. The RTI was cheaper and in about the same shape as the CF one. For what I paid I'm not upset. Only shot one so far and it wasn't as terrible as I was afraid it was going to be. The bore on both were both still beautiful. Was able to hit a 12" gong at 100 yards with undersized ammo pretty consistently.
Yeah the carbines are the safe bet from them! They all generally have rifling. That's amazing that you're getting good results with the undersized rounds! I know that PPU has a new SKU for an updated production of 6.5 Carcano ammo that has the right size bullets. Maybe you got lucky and got the updated stuff? Anyway, thanks for watching and also your comment!
@@worldofthearms6976 When I finally get around to reloading some with proper sized ammo I want to see just how big the MOA difference is between the two. I've been wondering what exactly are people calling terrible accuracy, to a modern guy 5-6 MOA would be unacceptable, but in the world of 3-4 MOA milsurp guns I can live with 5-6.
Unfortunate about the wire wheeling. Hopefully it turns out to be a decent shooter. I got a 1938 BSA Enfield from RTI I posted on my channel that had all it's original finish but lots of surface rust and rust scale. I believe that may be why many of these were wire wheeled when sadly the rust could have been easily dealt with by the customer by boiling & carding, and some brass brushes to preserve the finish. Try taking it apart and carefully pouring boiling water down the bore and follow up with a brass brush. That will clean any remaining corrosive residue out and help break free some of the hardened crud in there. Id say leave it as is but if you want to refinish it I would use a nice rust blue don't use a cold blue. It would look much better and more like the original finish. For $250 that is a pretty good deal overall.
Yeah it really is unfortunate with the wire wheeling on some of their guns. I hope it does shoot good too! I saw that video of yours! It cleaned up pretty decently. Looked alot better than being wire-wheeled. And thank you for the tip on cleaning out the bore, and also the tip on rust bluing! Much appreciated! And thanks for watching and commenting!
@@worldofthearms6976 it has servicable rifling, and it just barely passes the bullet test. Just in case youd like to know, out of the 4 rifles I've gotten from RTI the SMLE I got was the worst.
@@themandan4000 I'm glad yours is passable and passes the bullet test! The No.1 Mk.3 that I got had a sewer pipe for a barrel too, so don't feel too bad!
@@worldofthearms6976 on the other hand my m1895/34 8x56r is in really good shape. Sharp rifling, with just a but burn near the muzzle, and its even got most of the bluing. So 1.5/3 is good enough for me.
