@@przemysawsek4974 I use Elring, they are 3x cheaper and so far I had no issues. However I do know that the OEM seals are slightly different color which suggest different manufacturer. Not sure which is best...:)
@@mandrepretorius5499 probably broken chain guides, loose pieces can clog up the oil pickup leading to oil starvation and con rod bearing damage. Oil pan needs to be removed, inspected, guides and tensioner replaced and redo the timing
Tank's man, when you don't have the tool for the crankshaft you can use the locking tools from the kit for timing chain, and put it jn first gear and maybe have some one press the brakes
Great video, thanks! Been looking for something like this. Similar fate with my N43, got rebuilt by a shop but I had my doubts about vanos getting cleaned or at least that they are good and didn't need cleaning as stated by them. Now I'm even more sure. What can stuck vanos cause? Higher fuel consumption, rattle sound...?
Thanks mate that is brilliant. I had this argument with my brother-in-law and he said the compressor was the only way. I knew there was another way and now you have proven it. Well explained.
Yes! Great timing. Just putting the intake back on! Nice one on getting it running - nit quite there yet but i know it will not beat you 🙂 thanks again for the series. ❤
Hello. I like your videos a lot, I'm a beginner and so far it's the best video I've seen, I'm working after your videos, I have a problem, I'm with the engine disassembled in the garage, unfortunately the crankshaft is broken. Bmw 116i, 2.0 Petrol, year 2010. Can you please tell me which crankshaft is still compatible with this one because I can't find the original one. The tree number is AAES1122324252, Hub 90. thank you and have a nice day
Congratulations on a successful rebuild - it looks like the remaining problems can all be solved with a few new parts. I'm just doing an N46 bottom end swap after buying an E87 with engine noise - it was a rod bearing which then destroyed the crankshaft journal. Your videos are very helpful!
Brawo Bimmer.! Ja już 1000 km zrobiłem po remoncie silnika. Składałem swój silnik w tym samym czasie co ty. Twoje filmy z remontu N43 bardzo mi pomogły. Wielkie dzięki 💪💪
been waiting for this one for a long while, bravo, i've got misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, injectors have been tested, coil packs are fine, new spark plugs, new vanos, made a mistake, shorted the high pressure fuel pump on the positive terminal, today i found the vaccum pump leaking and oil in the vaccum side and i haven't driven anywhere, it was lumpy on idle.
Hey! I love your videos and currently rebuilding my second car's engine, could you please advise me? The piston ring gaps is in a weird situation, where 1 ring range 0,20...0,30 with result of 0,27 not going in 2 ring range 0,30 ... 0,45 with 0,48 going in, and 0,50 not going in with older ones the engine was working with 1 ring being around 0,34 and 2 ring 0,55. is 0,03 from maximum on a second ring bad?
As I describe in my N43 bottom end rebuild video; the second ring is primarily an oil scraper ring and is not that critical for the compression, so I think you should be fine with slightly out of spec second ring.
"Replace chain rail guide if engine's more than 10 years old" -- my N42 is on 22 years old and I'm stressing!! First thing I want to do is add a digital oil pressure sensor so I can be sure oil starvation never happens.
I would advise you to replace the plastic chain rail guide and chain tensioner. Oil pumps on the N42/N46 are pretty solid, oil starvation only happens when the pickup gets blocked with broken pieces of guide.
It’s sound advise to change the plastic guides , mine failed when taken for MOT test when engine revved higher than I dare. Roughly £50 for parts , £30 for timing chain kit. And for me. Labour free
hello bimmer you are the best, im 15 so im pretty new to this but im going to replace my timing chain on my n42 in my 318i, and this series is really going to help me, thanks and cheers
Great video. Myself I used PVC plumbing pipe with some fine sand paper to clean up the cam bearing shells (on my N55). The right PVC pipe is just a little smaller diameter than the cam journal. I bought chinese cams and checked the hardness with a scratch kit. The chinese cams have runout so beware.... but are easy to straighten true. I will put a video together soon.
Hi sir I change my cluster out with other one but I have the dot infront the miles and my fuel range, outside temperature etc is not working? Any ideas
Hi Bimmer Zen... I have a 318ti N42B20 2002 Automatic, problem is the idle....it idles perfectly normal and than the next minute it's a rough idle but doesn't stall...while driving no issues only when u comes to a stop sometimes its perfect idle and sometimes a rough idle...while driving it performs well but a bit heavy on fuel...I had the head re-done, all 4 new coil packs, 4 new spark plugs, re checked the timing twice but still having the issue...checked for any airleaks but nothing...cheaked all the wires all in perfect condition...on diagnostics i had a report of missfire on cylinder 3 and 4, cleared the fault but it still does the same thing...i see that when i unplug the idle control valve there is no difference in idle if i disconnect the idle control valve should the car not stall...i when it begins to idle rough the valve tronic motor keeps working to to set the valve tronis...do you advise i check the Vanos if its locking or please can you advise what else can I check on it...thank you.
@@faheemmustupha269 I suspect you have worn valvetronic components and/or bad lifters. Did you try disconnecting the valvetronic position sensor? This will cause the valves to open fully and the engine will be controlled by the auxiliary throttle. If the rough idle is gone, then you have valve opening issue (Valvetronic components). You will need to remove the valve cover and inspect components. Idle will be better if the AC is on (higher rpms = larger valve opening). On warmup the engine works with aux throttle and after a minute it transitions to Valvetronic operation (rpms controlled by valve lift) and you will get rough idle.
Hi BimmerZin, I spoke to the workshop that worked on my car and they advised they did not zip tie the valvetronic system as they say its not necessary...what should I look for to see if the set up had been done correctly...and I see the eccentric shaft sensor ug has oil in it, can I try cleaning it with electric switche cleaner or rather replace it...regards Faheem
@@faheemmustupha269 What work was done on the engine by the work shop? If they removed the Valvetronic assembly without securing the intermediate levers then it's very possible that they slipped out of position and the torsion spring is no longer keeping it pressed against the camshaft and eccentric shaft. That would cause a bit of rattle and incomlete valve opening. Very common mistake on cylinder nr.3 : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Fn85Y-X9fAM.html You can use breakclean on the conector.
