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I bought an EasyThreed from AliExpress, about $120 aussie dolalrs. It was surprisingly good (except for its slicer) and I actually made 3 times the cost back by printing custom gluestick holders for the local women's scrapbooking group members. Minimal assembly needed, just enough for a beginner to understand how the printer works and fix simple issues, which is a win as far as I'm concerned.
why would anyone pick this over the carbon X1E ... I don't know. The print size on paper? That most likely will bever be achieved because of all the other issues.
I am running two printers and two carbon filters in a room. Even then I can't be in the room for a long time. That means even PLA has something nasty in it.
This was very good 🙂My MK4 after the upgrade is great, the details are sharp, the layers build on each other smoothly, and even with more complex models the edges are smooth and clean😍
This has to be the most fun upgrade topics since the 3018 mini router got upgraded......it's not the highly functional part that is fun...... it's the idea of improving a dinky small printer which is 2 steps up from a toy......the table is small by anyone's standards.....and making it into a more practical printer if you like doing that sort of thing......where you go is where you want to go and how far is only the limit of your ability and imagination.
Give it to me, i can fix it in minutes. You didn't troubleshoot at all like If the bulk capacitors are getting power or if the ic is getting power to initially start switching , if the ic is functioning at all like it supposed to. Transistors blows up due to some other reasons likely to happen in the driving circuitry. Tons of related video on youtube. For example "Diode gone wild"
I tried out a Prusa. I found an a well tuned printer at 1/6 the price worked about the same. So just being some guy who just prints to make a few odd things like my small six drawer cabinets where I keep small parts etc. I don’t need to pay six time more for a printer.
Talks about a multi material printer all the time, then doesn't print multiple materials... Wtf? That's like the coolest part about this printer... CF-ASA + TPU + dissolvable supports? Conductive filament? Varioshore? translucent and opaque? Add weight with metall fill filament? So many opportunities, but everyone only talks about multi color printing. How boring.
Hi Thomas, my name is Francesco, and I am a 16-year-old guy passionate about 3D printing. About a year ago, I bought my Elegoo Neptune 4, an amazing printer that works very well, and I am happy with the purchase. Unfortunately, every time I turn the printer on and off, the Z-offset changes, and I have to recalibrate it manually. This frustrates me because I’m forced to make a lot of clicks to level the bed. So, I started searching online for a solution, but the automatic calibration either involved a load cell mounted on the nozzle or external hardware that was complicated to install. So, I came up with a software idea that could automate the whole process. Here’s how it works: You need to know the offset between the 3 axes, which is the distance between the nozzle tip and the probe for automatic bed leveling. You tell the printer to move to a coordinate near the center of the bed, take a measurement with the probe, and save it. Then, the head should move to the same coordinates but adding the previously recorded offset in X and Y, take another measurement, and save it as well. After the printer has returned to the previous coordinates, it needs to take the two previously saved data points and insert them into the following formula (the first measurement = A and the second = B, the Z-offset probe is the offset between the nozzle tip and the probe on the Z-axis): (Z-offset probe + (X)) - (Y) + 0.1mm. The final instruction to give the printer is to set the current Z-axis coordinate as the Z-offset. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to program in G-code, so if you think this software might work, would you be willing to help me write it? (If you think it won’t work, could you explain why?) I hope I was clear. Thank you for your attention, I’ll be waiting for your response to hear your opinion on this matter. Best regards, Francesco Thank you for your attention.
It's mind-boggling how printers are sold with 0 concerns about safety. Not a single word in marketing or web stores. And resin printing youtubers all assume you live in a house with a garage, with a chimney to another dimension/outer space. Not in apartment building etc. "just air it outside" outside, to my neighbours windows?
As someone looking to purchase their first small 3d printer that can only put it in their bedroom with an air filter, how safe would that be for me? Thanks!
Chemistry has problem with fumes, toxicity, flammables, ... So in a professional environment you will have a cubicle with safety windows, a burn proof ground and a ventilation to the outside. And showers + seperate clothing on site, so you do not bring any contaminates home. 3D-printing and solderwork has become a home staple and we do have more knowledge about long-term health risks (Woodworking has a dust problem). So IMHO any reduction of possible harmful substances is good - as the more the likelier you are to win the illness/cancer lottery. Just look at asbestos and glaswool. Nano-fibres with an cancer incubation of 15+years. In a work environment you will have ventilation and filtering for worker protection. For home consumers this should become standard - an enclosure with filtering and possible a vent to the outside. Because at home there is no worker protection or required testing nor insurance. If you get cancer as a work related injury you are covered - if you get ill because you did stuff at home, well you are out of luck.
Always good to remind people of these issues though I think it's still important to quote some old reddit comment when someone made a huge OMG THIS IS KILLING US AND DANGEROUS writeup: your monitors off gas more then a PLA 3D print just from the heating and cooling of it going on and off. My printer is a MK4 that sits quite close to me. I made the decision a few years ago (probably should've done it sooner) to get an air filter with a HEPA and a cute little dinky carbon filter and put it nearby too. I exclusively print with PLA and PETG (though expanding on enclosures with filters so I can do some fancier filaments) and the 2 times I printed with ABS, I loaded it up, shut off my HVAC so it wouldn't pump air throughout the home, opened a window and put a fan in, ran the print and left the room. When I came back later, I equipped a full respirator with two P99 + VOC + formaldehyde filters. Once the print was done and everything cooled, I cranked filters and fans to clear out the room for a few hours before I turned the HVAC back on and went back in the room. None of these things are "safe" but we also have to look at them in context of all the other plastics and whatnot we use. And for the love of all things holy, those tiny carbon filters do squat for what comes out of a printer. Professional printer filters (look up BOFA) have a carbon filters practically 2-3x the size of even the largest "comes with printer" or community made filters. And that's just the carbon filter, they still have HEPA and even a pre-filter. To pour a few grams of activated carbon purchased for as cheap as possible off Amazon or Aliexpress into a box with a fan and the cheapest robot vacuum filter you could fine and go "there, that will make it safe for me to run a dozen printers on ABS/ASA without worry" is practically negligent of the health concerns. If someone wants to feel at least a fraction of a percent better, do those filters... but if you want to run this as a business or something, invest in real filters. Also note: activated carbon has temperature limits... so "I got a active chamber heater so now I can print huge ABS/ASA prints" is just a respiratory issue waiting to happen. Took quite some time before people were willing to say "maybe cigarettes aren't healthy" at scale... gonna be a lot before 3D printing is in a better situation too. Until then: I'll stick to PLA/PETG, have the room air filter running, and also buy filament from reputable brands as they're less likely to just throw whatever industrial additive/colorant gets them a result they want vs. something measurable from a health perspective.
That room full of resin printer needs carbon air purifier running within covers that seals off the whole printer when not in use. The resin fumes can probably add to your to your headaches.
I really wonder how these numbers would compare when having a printer in a a smallish room with a window open, seeing as I run a printer in my student style room with a "window" open at all times
So I ran a similar set of tests with my home set up. The crazy thing is I set up my control in my back garden in rural Ireland. On pretty much all fronts the readings outside were higher than when I was running my resin printer with water washable resin or FDM printer with PLA or PETG. I'd love to know if anyone else has found the same? Cos my data indicates 3d printing is about as dangerous as a walk in the Tipperary mountains
in april i got given a used ender 3 v2 neo by a family member as a gift as they were upgrading. this is my first printer. after teaching myself how to use it and getting very familiar with the machine i am still unable to get even one test print, i can get the bed perfectly leveled and a good first 3 layers then it stops extruding and keeps going, no extruder clicking it just ends up leaking out or underextruding. i have done multiple fixes for heat creep ect, taken apart and put back together the hotend, cleaned and even replaced the tubing and couplers hoping for any sort of result. i have spent maybe over 100 hours troubleshooting and exhausting all the fixes i could find. im not quite sure how to go forward and i dont have anyone able to assist me currently. im willing to pay to just have someone physically help with it or give instruction on what to try next. thank you.
