Welcome to "The First Layer: Your foundation to a great 3D print" RU-vid channel!
Richard Cleveland, is a 3D printing enthusiast with years of experience in the industry. He's passionate about sharing his knowledge and helping others get the most out of their 3D printing projects.
Our host Richard Cleveland shares tips and tricks for 3D printing success, from setting up your printer to troubleshooting common issues. We also host live streams where you can ask questions and connect with other enthusiasts. Subscribe and join us for our live streams to improve your 3D printing skills.
Hi Great product but on major flaw that nobody had though about it cause event filament is breaking inside filament loader it will no longer to be able to detect it! Cause it primary function is only detect missing filament! It's need filament movement detector like consumption it will be done by adding a roller that will detect if roller is stopping! With that feature you could say 100% bullet proof on both case
Thank you for a very detailed video. I like your printer setting method, but it doesn't work on my printer. Even after I save the settings, they seem off as soon as it starts printing. I'm about to upload a newer firmware, but the new firmware does not have all the tabs in Arduino IDE... I'm kinda scared not to brick it.
I don't think I've used Simplify3D since about 2018 or 19. I purchased it in 2017. I remember liking it it better than the Cura of the time. Once I tried Prusaslicer I never went back.
I am super thankful for you explaining this exactly as I thougt the bed needs readjusting pretty often, what I have been thinking of that there should be a 5th support in the middle because I feel like my buildplate is bowing down there on my crealitu ender 5 s1. I am going to readjust things once again :)
This is a better video, with the textured blocks. I viewed it in slow motion, but it could have used better resolution. My only problem is the puzzle itself doesn't hold together well, and it's like reinventing the wheel just to get the recognition.
Find it amazing how everyone keeps focusing on the price, yet don't factor in the time that they have to play with "free" slicer settings. S3D is quite simply, the best money I have EVER spent in my life, it works, quality on default settings has always been amazing for me (both for v4 and now v5.2) and I don't have to waste my time messing around with all the so-called "free" slicers. In my humble opinion, if you don't value your time, then go with the "free" options... because they can all do what S3D does, and probably more. But if you value your time, then don't be one of those complaining about spending US$60 for an upgrade and supporting a BUSINESS that is offering the best product they can. I have held off upgrading to v5.2 because of all the nay-sayers... until I updated today. And I'm sorry I have only done it now, thank you Simplify3D for bringing back some quality of life and immense time-saving back to my 3D printing. Best money I've spent on a product ever.
This is not a feasible solution because I did update my old printer firmware board, but there are lots of details missing, like chips or screens and other hardware; also, not every printer has firmware based on open source, so I am not sure how this advice will work. The advertisement about this could work on some printers that are based on open source, but you will have a difficult time compiling the H file. I am thinking of a better solution, but I do not have an extra printer to test my solution. My solution is that the old printer has a cut-off sensor; we need to see the output value for the smart sensor, make it match the cutoff sensors, and plug the smart sensor where the cutoff sensor is.
Would I be ok to do this on my CR10s5? It is NOT a Creality but rather a generic version that I bought on Amazon a few years ago. It's a 12v version. A label on its side says it has Marlin (don't know which version, maybe you can tell me how to see the version) and that's all I know. I am an E.E. and computer savvy but this is not my hobby but rather a tool I use for my RC models to make structural parts.
My expectations were really low with how poorly my troubleshooting was going, but the glue stick trick solved it completely. I'm amazed! Thank you very much.
For any other females 3d printers who found themselves here might want to go find another video. @7:32 "you don't want fluffy girly smell in the 3d print room"
Hi there, If you're considering getting dental work done, I can help you with your journey to Turkey. We have highly experienced and qualified dentists here, and they use high-tech equipment in very hygienic conditions. Since our country is still recovering from the economic crisis after the Covid pandemic, our prices are currently quite low compared to European countries. I think you should consider taking advantage of this opportunity. Do your own research first and make sure you're comfortable with the idea. Here are some additional points you may want to include: You can find many dental clinics in Turkey that cater to foreign patients. They often have English-speaking staff and can help you with everything from booking your flights and accommodation to arranging transportation and providing aftercare. The cost of dental work in Turkey is typically 50-70% lower than in the US. For example, a single dental implant can cost up to $5,000 in the US, but it would only cost around $2,000 in Turkey. You can combine your dental treatment with a vacation in Turkey. The country has a rich history and culture, and there are many beautiful places to visit. I hope this information is helpful. Please feel free to ask me any questions you have. Best regards,
Great video! Good to see the results! I printed a two stage 3D printed rocket a while ago, the motor fired and then the rocket went to blast the separation... and it blew the whole thing up.
Thank you for the narrative story on how thing are working with paper drag. Just a question: Should I turn the heater bed off and apply the Elmer's Glue Stick and go ahead with printing without heated bed? Thank again!
Guide for slightly different setting: CR Touch and PlatformIO instead of Arduino IDE V2 (muy guide disappeard - thanks google!) In case anyone missed. He told at 5:38 the wire color is : brown - ground red 5V yellow Signal (black and white are end-switch) The CR touch does have different colors white, black, yellow, red, blue Well, the modern BL touch too. It's a pity we don't know how to match these colors. going to buy 32 bit board.
How dd you get that final petsfang screw in.t's right behind the bl-touch. i am sorry i had to remove the bl-touch first. :D damn i hate bending over for too long over such a big printer. CHeers
At the point of Minus one you need to explain how you take off the limit. The problem could be that the Nozzle cannot go below to a negative number. This requires the use of :M211 S0 to turn off the the protection. This will allow the negative value to be acquired by changing the height of the Z.
Been having a problem with my Ender 3 lately. Had all sorts of z-offset and home problems that I had to fix one by one (the end stop too high, the wheels too loose and backing out, the arm going crooked and/or making short/smushed parts, etc... etc... but after finally getting all those things fixed, out of nowhere now I need a -0.9mm offset, which is too much to be able to use several slicing programs. Like Cura and Creality, they only allow a -0.27mm offset max. I know there are other ways to "fix" the problem, but I don't want to have to rig anything that's going to make it hard to print different things with different slicer programs and I don't want to have to mess with settings every single time I want to print something. For the first 4 weeks of having the machine (excluding the problems), for the most part I would just slice and print the parts. I didn't need to mess with settings or have to do anything special just to print a normal part.
