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Disclaimer: Use at your own risk. SAFETY FIRST! Always read your own owner's manual and service manual and understand all safety items for your specific boat and motor. I am not an expert mechanic. All of the information I share is for entertainment purposes only. Consult your boat and motor's manufacturer, owner's manual and service manual for expert advice. Boating and repairing/maintaining a boat motor can be dangerous. Please make sure you fully understand all risks involved so you do not get injured or worse. Once again, all content on this channel is for entertainment only. Please only attempt any of the things in these videos unless you have adequate skill, have fully read the owner's manual and service manual, and even then continue at your own discretion and risk. I am not responsible for your boat, motor, and am not responsible for keeping you safe.
How do you fix the locking pull cord? The pull cord on the Mercury 6hp locked when we were out on Lake Erie on our sail boat. It locked up when I tried to restart it before we took our sailboat into the harbor. I watched your video on water and back in harbor after sailing in.. our problem seems to be the white lever doesn't go up when I try to shift into neutral. So not only does pull cord not pull, I can't get it out of forward. Richard
Yeah the white lever will keep the pull start from working when in forward, it’s a safety mechanism. You will have to figure out why it’s not shifting into neutral. It seems like the linkage got out of sync with the lower end unit. You can take the little rubber hole cover off at the bottom and see where the upper shift linkage is coupled with the lower shift linkage. Try loosening that coupling to see if it frees up the shift lever. If it does the issue is the 2 linkages are out of sync or something with your lower end unit. If it doesn’t help then there is an issue on the upper end.
Hi, just got a new priming bulb and it will not hold air pressure against my finger like my previous ones would. Check valve is back-leaking slightly but it still pumps. Will this be an issue on the boat, should I send back and buy another? Thank you.
Depends on how much it’s losing. Try getting it empty and shake it up and down. That might help the check valve seat. Most times the motor will pull gas no problem once it starts and the check valve might not be an issue. However All the bulbs I have had get really firm with no backflow so it’s hard to tell. Id probably get a replacement just to be sure. The last thing you want is a problem and then having to chance the issue
@@Skinnyriver tend to agree. I have had cheap bulbs so far in which the check valves hold air pressure no problem. I have spent more on this one so would expect the check valve to hold pressure, over a short duration anyway. I had tried to get the valve to seat properly with no luck I can only really see it being an issue once the engine is stopped, but would be annoying having to re-prime for every restart out on the water because the fuels drained back to tank.
Just found out that to do a compression test you have to back off the pushrods. There's a build in decompressor cam for easy pull over on the start up.
Great vid mate couple of points. On the impeller swap if you mark where the cottle pin we in the uk call them split pins. Mark the inside of propeller with tipp ex or marker pen where it goes through the castle nut and always, alway renew the split pin loose that pin and you've lost the prop. Learned lots thanks from the uk.
Yeah that’s probably all it is. Look up B12 Chemtool, it’s a good cleaner you put in gas (or try seafoam) but I would just take the carb off and spray the jets
I have some experience with small motors on a Crawdad and a Portabote Extreme. You can get a better attack angle sometimes by buying (heaven forbid!!) or fabricating a fixed or adjustable jack plate to lower the prop into the water further when set at an aggressive angle. It can add significant speed to your boat.
Thank you, I bought a motor and it was slow because I am not good at using it. Now I know that there are speeds for the motor. A thousand thanks to you, thank you very much.
Hey I have a 14ft alumi Lowe 1470 deep V would like this 6hp would this be enough for me and my wife im 185lbs shes 145lbs?How fast would we go and Would be for cruising and fishing or should I step up to a 9.9hp?
If the boat is rated for it and you are going to leave the motor on the boat, I would go 9.9. I think you’d be more happy. It would be work the extra $$
Great video. We use ours for our tender on our sailboat. One thing that weve done is run the engine dry when not using it for more than two days. That eliminates any carb problems due to dirt or water issues in the carb. I spoke with tohatsu service and they said, if you dont use the engine every day, you need to follow wonter layup procedures - run the engine dry.
You dont realize you did this but you reversed the way the carb bowl went on. Does this matter? Before u took it off the fuel vent screw was on the same side as the gas line. After you cleaned the carb it was now on the other side.
Hello, I have a problem selecting neutral. In neutral, my propeller must be free? If I adjust it so that my selector neutral is set with a free propeller, I can no longer shift into reverse. Thanks for your advice.
Did you recently do any maintenance on the motor? It sounds like the linkage between the shifter and the lower end unit is out of position. Take off the rubber round hole cover at the lower portion of the motor and you will see where the 2 shafts are coupled
Have you ever worked on the 2.5 hp version? It’s so hard to get the lower unit on because the water pickup is only secured at the power head, the water pickup just dangles around
I haven’t but the last time I did this on my 6hp it took an hour to get the lower end unit lines back up. It’s super frustrating. There are a couple vids on YT about getting the lower end unit back on, but there is not an easy trick that I have found
Nice video! Thank you… I own a 6hp Suzuki 4 stroke and have had nothing but problems with it for years… Granted I don’t use it often, but I do use only 91 non-ethanol and Seafoam Marine additive… Love to hear stories of folks who have zero issues with their motors- wish I could join the club! I’m anxiously awaiting an electric option in the future! 🙏🏻
Sorry about the frustrations. I don’t think anyone has ever had zero issues with a boat or motor 😂 I’ve had my share with this motor. But overall it’s been great. Yeah electric is pretty exciting. Also Mercury has a propane option that is interesting.
@@joshanderson924 yeah that’s a good point, 91 will delay ignition and has lower combustion(?) than 87. These motors are designed for 87 octane. I think keys for motors like these are non-ethanol, keep carb clean and RUN THEM! Storage really hurts these motors fuel systems
I don’t think it’s causing any problems but 91 is for high compression engines (like BMWs, Land Rover) it needs high compression to ignite. From what I have read running higher octane than needed doesn’t hurt anything but is just a waste of $$. You don’t really gain a cleaner burn or performance. However running lower octane than the engine is designed for will cause engine knocking because it ignites earlier. So I think you are fine, I just doubt you are gaining anything if the engine was designed for 87.
Thank you for a good run throu of the engine. I have a 2014 6 hp that recently started to cut out on idle. I guess it’s the carburettor thar needs cleaning. The one common issue with these engines that you don’t mention is the steering brake. It stops working, and if you use the engine on a sail boat, that’s really annoying!
That’s a good point, I never thought about the steering brake. Let me know if you end up cleaning the carb and if it works. I had a similar issue and ran some B12 Chemtool (kind of like seafoam) and it really helped. Thanks!
I have the same motor and I bought it new and I had the same problem. The problem is to get the gas to the fuel pump I start to use external tank and its much better
I didn't know you could fill the internal tank using the bulb. I'll try if it works on my suzuki as well. And it's kind of stange the fuel filter is located after the fuel pump. In suzuki 6hp, filter is located before the fuel pump.
Thanks. Definitely the best video I've seen on this motor. I had the bad starting and also cutting out problem and pulled it aggressively to the start it with the gear interlock cutting in. I'll moderate the first part of the pull as you say. One thing worth mentioning is the remote tank you have looks very much like mine. I found the air bleed has to be all the way undone. There's a detent on it that stops it falling right out. I found that if not screwed right out not enough air can get in and if you're motoring hard it can cut out. Much worse with a full tank because less air to play with at the beginning. If you don't mind spitting out a bit of petrol vapour you can test this by blowing through the hole in the cap to see the difference. Also - this might be useful for some folks. If you leave the fuel tap open and pump the line from the tank you can fill the outboard tank.
Awesome points! Yeah I filled the tank by accident when I pumped the bulb on the external tank lol. I appreciate the view and support! It means a lot. Thanks
