Hello and welcome to my channel! I am a motorcyclist and I love engines, I do all the mechanical work on my vehicles. I even love making videos about the world of motorcycles and other vehicles
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First and the most important you need the right tools! Have a long ratchet to have control, have the hex head fully pushed inside all the time while you try to untie it. That bold should be the only one to be untied that time all other ones should be untouched tightened. One tips is to have it warmed up, have a ride to make it warm. Be careful to not damage the bolt not the engine! Let us know how it went for you. Good luck!
We buy our Bikes new in 2023. I bought 2 BPA Slack setter, go to yamaha seller und put the slack setter directly on the chain (sidestand was unfolded) So i have the reference from yamaha factory default. At home i put the bikes on the assembly stand with the second adjuster. Now i can maesure folded or on assembly stand. But yes the chain is also on factory default by 41 mm my girlfriend same bike and same 41 mm by sidestand unfolded. I adjusted both chains after 4000 km , my Girlfriends on 36 and my again to factory settings with adjuster to 41mm. So 36mm is in range but feels like too strong but its in the range. So better a little bit looser than to strong is my opinion, both settings works. But you have to measure the range on sidestand, not on the assembly because you push the swing upwards. You measure after adjustment on sidestand?
Ya I saw these. THe thing not many can get those in time and the moment is gone. The video is to show how you can do it when you are not prepared at all. Thanks for viewing my channel and your advice ! 😊
Hi all installed covers.. No leaks all good.. I know this is off topic.. As I have the same bike as you and color.. Can I ask does the arrow and dot line up with your clutch arm and on clutch cover .. Or are they slightly offset.. Or and only line up when the clutch lever is pulled in.. I have clutch judder at biting point.. One member on Mt forum says there's lines up until clutch pulled in then it's offset.. Like I say mines the opposite.. I bought it like this and judder on first movement setting off ..bike has 4000 miles Thanks for any help
Thanks for the tutorial. The GB Racing instructions for the water pump cover does not say anything about removing and reversing the hose clamp. Does the waterpump cover not fit if the hose clamp is in its original position?
My pleasure! No exactly! that model that needs you to make modifications is for the previous model the GEN2. It fits this GEN3 but with those modifications. The second one I installed it was the right model.
Thanks for watching! Did you really work on one bolt and one side at a time? It is very important that you re-tight the bolt you work on even if you put it back for a reverse work. Did you solve it?
The foam on the right side.. Will be to help with clutch noise.. I had 2016 mt was known for this never bothered me once I knew it was normal until the clutch was pulled in.. New mt Gen 3 probably doesn't have any issue in this area. Nice to see you yamaha was just adding extra dampening.. And the extra casing will do the same job without the sponge. Hope this clarify it.. Thanks
I have the same kit.. There are 2 copper washer in diagram for secondary water pump cover bottom bolt .. Whats your thoughts..it say original copper st - s bush standard bush- New supplied copper washer.. I've not installed yet.. Thanks
Thanks for watching! Let's trust that the kits are made to fit exactly. Then you should be able to use the original copper washer. I did it with mine ☺
Hi, ere you go: aliexpress.com/item/1005004412584212.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.20772cdbQRyHXc&algo_pvid=5edd2e7d-f490-49cb-b36b-3069ca000108&algo_exp_id=5edd2e7d-f490-49cb-b36b-3069ca000108-3&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21SEK%21809.72%21688.23%21%21%21%21%21%402100b88516836612813692179d07b4%2112000029092517081%21sea%21SE%21903378926&curPageLogUid=ZlnX99vzdZ7S
Hi, great video, but unfortunately these products are all counterfeit. The material used will be significantly inferior to the genuine GBRacing material, and so unlikely to do the job of protecting your bike in the event of a crash. If you order the genuine GBRacing products, from us or one of our official dealers on our website, the weight difference between the two products will instantly be apparent. We work very hard to provide motorcyclists around the world with the exact same quality protection as used by World Superbike teams. We appreciate you promoting the GBRacing brand, so if you get in touch with the office we can discuss sending you out a genuine GBRacing set, made entirely in the UK. Thanks!
Hi, thanks for watching! The purpose of the video is to share knowledge. But sure the quality of the things we want to have on our bikes should withstand. It would be nice to get in touch and talk about your products. Thanks!
Hi what torque setting did you use in the end for the lower main frame engine bolt right side.. As I have come to learn I have standard stick out crash bungs on my 22 mt Gen 3..and previous owner never used the boss mount that you used dome end to fit to your frame Sliders.. As it mates to dome internal.. The one's I have basically previous selling just put flat end crash bung right side into dome internal.. Because one size fits all bungs were bought and never allowed longer bolt to use with dome boss mount you explained correctly to use with your frame Slider right side.. When I bought the bike I noticed right side was slightly loose.. Now I know why.. They will be many out there with the one size fits all crash bungs that may experience my issue.. Just hope it not damaged my thread it doesn't look that good on inspection.. I just tighten back up.. You've this video taught me this about the missing boss mount right side.. That was not used... Hope this makes sense.. Good work 👍
Thanks for watching! As you see Im doing the torque with my hands as I have been doing this for many years. But I also did the torque afterwards. The bolts torques are seen from the side (according to the service manual): - The front bolts of the frame and engine 60Nm - The back bolts of the frame and the engine 45Nm Happy that I could help you, and happy new year ! 🎉🥳
Hi, the service manual on page 2-12 states the following Generator cover bolt M6 2 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 8.9 lb·ft) Generator cover bolt M6 8 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 8.9 lb·ft) Clutch cover bolt M6 11 12 N·m (1.2 kgf·m, 8.9 lb·ft) This is how you should tight them. The manual from RG Racing states 10 N.m which I dont recommend Have a nice weekend
Thanks for watching and the information! I have checked the service manual and it says: - On the page (2-9) on the "CHASSIS SPECIFICATIONS" the following: Drive chain slack (Sidestand) 36.0-41.0 mm (1.42-1.61 in) Drive chain slack (Maintenance stand) 36.0-41.0 mm (1.42-1.61 in) And on the "PERIODIC MAINTENANCE" page 3-18 you can read the following: Drive chain slack (Sidestand) 36.0-41.0 mm (1.42-1.61 in) Drive chain slack (Maintenance stand) 36.0-41.0 mm (1.42-1.61 in) Drive chain slack limit (Side-stand) 46.0 mm (1.81 in) In my opinion you can use the sidestand, centralstand, or the maintenance stand
Extract from Yamaha service manual how to check chain slack/tension for the 2023 MT 09 model. Start by marking a reference point from the rear edge 32 mm inwards of the lower swing arm plastic chain guide. From that reference point move the chain vertically up/down.The minimum stretch is 36 mm to a maximum stretch of 41 mm. If chain stretch in under 36 mm, the rear axle needs to come forward to increase chain slack. If the chain stretch is more than 41 mm, the axle needs to moved backwards to tighten the chain. Axle nut size is 32 mm, the torque is 77 ft lbs or 105 Nm, The adjustment lock nut is 12 mm in size & the torque 12 ft lbs or 19 Nm, There are incremental vertical marks/notches on both sides of the swing arm to gauge how far you wind the axle forwards or backwards to either loosen or tighten the chain tension. 🖐🇦🇺
Nice! The manual does not state anything about finding the part that has the most slack on the chain by rotating it and then measure it. Normally that's something you should do don't you think? The older the chain. The more it can fluctuate when you turn the wheel.
Exactly! Thats why I mentioned that my chain has only 500 ish on the ODO meter. If the chain is older then we need to turn the chain and at the sametime try to find the tightest place. Thanks that you mentioed it and for viewing my videos 😊
Ya, thats why I felt with my fingers when I brought the bike from the dealer with only 26 km on the odometer. With that said it made me feel the "original" set up
Thanks for this, thought I was going mad. I have read the manual and you are right, but like you I thought it was too tight, but this is right. All of the other videos are misleading. Excellent 😄
Thank you so much. Did my chain adjustment a few days ago (6300km) and thought it is way too tight now...but Yamaha wants it that way. First thing i bought for this was a caliper for use instead of a measure tape, makes it much easier to measure and more precise.
Hi, thank you for watching my videos! These settings are for the city riding. If the riding is more of a racing or other style the settings should be other I think but Im not really sure about it. Haven't got an answer to this question form Yamaha yet. Have a great day!
Yes you are right! Here comes the part description from the shop: For YAMAHA MT09 MT-09 2021-2023 For YAMAHA MT09 SP 2021 2023 For YAMAHA XSR900 2021 2022 For YAMAHA FZ09 2021 2022 For YAMAHA Tracer 9/GT 2021 2022 For YAMAHA Tracer 900/GT 2021 2022 Thanks for waching!
I got these off Amazon cause i love the clean look and protection they offer but mine showed up scuffed up like they were a return, looks like somebody had scratched them up trying to put them on or something. I had to send them back. It took a month to get here the first time and who knows when I'll get the new pair. Yours look great, thanks for the video, It should help me in a month or so when i get mine.
Happy to help! Mine came also with small scraches and I made some small touch up on that place. Turned out to look very nice as you saw. I agree they really llok amazing compared to other protection parts. Good luck with yours!
These I have bought from AliExpress, sure I can paste the link here, you will find one with logo and one without. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004412584212.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.20772cdbQRyHXc&algo_pvid=5edd2e7d-f490-49cb-b36b-3069ca000108&algo_exp_id=5edd2e7d-f490-49cb-b36b-3069ca000108-3&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21SEK%21809.72%21688.23%21%21%21%21%21%402100b88516836612813692179d07b4%2112000029092517081%21sea%21SE%21903378926&curPageLogUid=ZlnX99vzdZ7S
I do agree about that. I have a friend who bought his from Yamaha and had also the same problem. I will see how they will perform this summer otherwise I will change to other. Will make a video on that then. Thanks for the visit and the tip and have fun!
@@swedriderHey, most tank pads reccomend heating both the pad and surface with a hair dryer or hot air gun to improve to quality if the glue bond and allowing the glue to cure for 24/48hrs. This will help prevent peeling in the future.
@@TheKez1a I agree with you. The reason I didn't do that was that these pads är cheap and I want to see how bad they can intract with the paint first then I will put new ones. That make it easier to change them to other ones. Thanks for your comment appreciate it! 🙂
Yep the glue is horrible... Attached the tankpad on my new MT-09 and the glue is literally everywhere. In the manual was written, that you place it on the surface, press all the corners with 3kg pressure on the surface, wait about 24 minutes and then you can remove the rest of the glue from all around the pad. Well, there is my problem, because there are many little pieces left on the edges of the pad...
@@xxentonxx7483 Ya it is not easy to get rid of the glue on the edges. For me seems that the pads did shrink a bit and left the glue at the same size as before
