I have a relatively clean 66 I am cleaning up for my wife. While the outside and stitch side seem in good shape albeit covered in lint and crud, the vertical shaft area inside the back appears to have a bit of rust or corrosion at least on the non-bearing surfaces. How to clean? I was thinking of some type of foam cleaner with gravity taking it down through the bottom? Or I have a bike chain cleaner that evaporates quickly, I was using that on some of the stitch side parts. I was able to relatively easily remove the stitch length shaft/adjuster so I can clean that without problem.
Thank you for your very helpful video! I just inherited my grandmother's 128 - almost identical to yours (same decals, Chicago plugs, etc.)! Although she runs, she runs in very slow motion. Any ideas for where we would start troubleshooting? Such a treasure!!! Thanks in advance for your help!
I have a Singer 298 FashionMaker which seems to be similar to this - disc in front for the zigzag and the mechanism for it at the back instead of top. My problem is that the needle is scraping/hitting the back of the hole in the throat plate. There are many videos for aligning sideways. Any idea how to align the needle front-back?
I have an old 27 and the bobbin winder broke exactly where you indicated in this video, probably due to bad shipping. Is there any way to glue or weld it back together? I tried JB Weld a couple of times, but it's useless. Once I put it back together and run it, it cracked again.
Thanks Bob for another great video. You always mention "well you seen me do these potted motors a 100 times now so there's nothing really new." Well Bob, theres always something new and different with every one you do. So we really appreciate the time you take to record these videos. I know it doubles your time you spend on a project that you film, so we thank-you. I know Marie will be happy with it. I have asked her about painting issues, on her channel and she's very pleasant and informing with her responses, see why you go the extra mile for people like that. By the way, I do watch your videos all the way thru, sometimes I have to stop half way thru, but always return to it.
I'm very fortunate to have a group of friends and colleagues that are always responsive to questions. Developing and maintaining a network is so important because none of us knows everything, and everyone has something to bring to the table. Marie is an artistic gem! She's one of those creators who always manages to come up with something that makes me smile. As a friend, well... she's an absolute delight - very supportive and always willing to speak frankly and honestly. She's become like a sister to Liz and I...
Bob - OMG ! You're using a clear coat!?! PLEASE tell me what you are using. The shellac on my 201 is almost completely off. The japaning and decals are in great shape (my Great Aunt bought it brand new in '51). If I need to replace the decals I can, but I would love to use a clear coat rather than shellac. I have no desire to maintain "museum quality", I want a finish that looks great AND will last. My parents 40 to 50 yo furniture (70s and 80s) with polyurethane is all in excellent condition, whereas the lacquered furniture purchased in the 90s all needs refinishing. (Lots of crazing where exposed to moderate, filtered UV.) I'm not worried about the work of shellac, I just don't think it lasts well. I haven't been able to find anyone that could recommend a clear coat that would be compatible with the japaning.
I haven't gotten that far just yet, but my inclination is to use Zinsser 408 Bulls Eye Shellac Spray. I just need to find a day when the humidity is low, which in New Jersey is a bit of a challenge.
Well, Sir Bob! Thanks for all your great videos and providing the adjusters manual for the 127 I just picked up. I spent some time doing minor clean up and oiling, repairing the tension unit and adjusting. I then threaded the machine and put in a loaded bobbin. The machine would not even pick up the bobbin thread. I started making adjustments per the manual you provided. It finally picked up the bobbin thread and sewed but continued to drop stitches intermittently and sometime for many stitches, despite all my adjustments. Then i learned a valuable lesson! I discovered that the needle that was in the machine when i purchased it was the wrong needle! 😮 Too short! Now it's sewing perfectly! Note too self, ALWAYS CHANGE THE NEEDLE, trust no one! 😂😂
Just thought you die-hards viewers might be interested in this, here are the analytics for the 1st 24 hours of this rather long video: Number of views: 424 Watch time: 105.0 hours Subscribers: -1 (lost 1 sub) How viewers found this video: Browse features 64.4% Notifications 14.2% Channel page 7.6% Suggested videos 6.6% Other RU-vid features 3.5% Others 3.8% Impressions: 4.2K Impressions Click Through Rate 6.3% Here's the good stuff... Average View duration: 16:27 Average percentage viewed 24.2% Age and gender Female 43.5% Male 56.5% 0 viewers in the age groups up to and including 54 years old. 55-64 years 34.4% 65+ years 65.7% 86.7% are subscribers 13.3% not subscribed 79.9% are from the United States 4.2% are from Canada 3.2% are from the United Kingdom 96.5% were returning viewers 3.5% were new viewers So yeah, for those of you who watched this, even if only for a little bit, thanks so much for watching!
Another great Video Bob. I watched it all the way through cause there is always something new to learn. Have you ever had a bad toggle light switch? After soldering new wire to one the the switch was very random. I was wondering if the toggle goes bad.
I've had several switches in the past year that were bad. I've been looking for a source of new switches that are a direct replacement, but so far have not found one that is a good fit. Off topic, but relevant... Several people have suggested to me 3D printing a switch body and putting the guts of another switch inside. While that might work for a home gamer, if you're doing something like that and then passing it on to someone else, that's a HUGE liability as the homemade switch will NOT be UL approved. All it takes is one unfortunate accident and lives are ruined...
Hi Bob, Thanks for this wonderful tutorial. My featherweight case needs a handle as well. Would mine sharing which size 'Ohio's Emergency Handle with Nickel Hardware' its most suitable for wooden Featherweight cases as shown in your video? Thanks, -s
Waiting for you to notice what you forgot. 😅 Fan of Promethean Sewing Machines. 🌈🌈🦋🦋I’ve been collecting and fixing my entire adult life. I’ve still got my first machine motorized Singer from 1925, given to me in 1977 for 4H🍀
You're awesome! I trust your work and advice over anything on you-tube!!! It was great talking to you today and I will have my motor on my way to you Monday, feeling thankful! Laurie 😁🪡🪡🪡
I watch every minute of it - it's like visiting with an old friend in their workshop and every now and then while they chat away to me they point out things that are good to watch out for, or important to get right. The only thing that would make it better is if I could actually be there. (RU-vid is working properly again for me now and it just wonderful to see 'the team in action' again!)
Thank you for this video. My daughter contracted a job hemming canvas curtains. She has an antique singer, and I own a room full of sewing machines, but we couldn't get an acceptable stitch from the couple machines we initially tried. Murphy's Law, I guess. I had forgot I had this little model 66, and of course had forgot how to load the bobbin. Oh, and I'm lovin' Wilson!
Thank you for making such a clear and well explained video. I'm having a little trouble with putting the retaining ring back on. when I turn the balance wheel the clutch slips before the retaining ring can click into place. I've tried removing the stop screw from the stop motion wheel and tightening as much as I can. I was wondering if the washer had worn and I needed to add a shim washer or if there was somthing else I'm missing.
Links are in the description, but here ya go: Du-Bro 606 4-40 Blind Nut Bulk (24-Pack) www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O8U0W?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Stainless 4-40 x 5/8" (3/8" to 1-1/2" Available) Flat Head Machine Screws, Full Thread, Phillips Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Machine Thread (4-40 x 5/8") (I have 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" in my inventory) www.amazon.com/dp/B07B41H9K1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Hey Bob! Question for you! I just came into a 31-20, but it was missing its bobbin holder and bobbin…. Is the bobbin case and bobbins the same as for the 31-15???
My initial thought was yes, but I've never had a 31-20, so I did some checking... Cutex's website shows a SKU for the 31-15 as Sku: 62740, yet shows the 31-20 as a large capacity Sku: 20756. Just goes to show, ya learn something new every day...