All I have to say is, the correct way would have been to actually have the pipes connected, plus I work at autozone and all the stuff we get comes pre packaged for our vendor so autozone didn’t put it in the wrong packaging the vendor did
I agree with @johnschwarz9639. Even though the cost of any set of lowering springs is deemed "lucrative", going through the install process is the same as replacing the shocks & struts. There isn't a need for full-on coilovers, unless your car is dedicated for the track. You drive on the street(s) 99.8% of the time, so keep it street. Bilstein B8s are an excellent choice with the lowering springs - a set-up such as that will do away with more of the "sway" you get when hard cornering. Otherwise, just going with lowering springs isn't doing anything but reducing ride height; as the stock shocks/struts do not compliment them. AND, if you want even better - upgrade the FCAs & ball joints + locking collars for the subframe since you're going to need an alignment anyway. Is it more costly? Sure, if you want better handling. But, if you are just wanting a "look", get the springs and don't expect performance.
I have a mk5 gti auto dsg and the car drives but then after 2o minutes it will stall , the gears change perfectly fine but when it stalls the battery logo (red) flutters on the dash then stalls , is this due to my fuel pump too ?
I just bought a set of these Truhart springs and shocks for my EM1. It’s hardly ever driven, so I just wanted something nice that would work. Looks like you did a good job.
Resonator is just not straight pipe rather a straight pipe with perforations, dampening materials which may contain steel wool and fiberglass to lowering the tone of exhaust gases especially rasp sound
This been bugging me for more than a year and have found 0 info about it, so gave up. Mine dont turn off while switching to off "0". Did it happen to you?
