Awesome Video. It is very helpful for people with the similar work needed to be done in the house. Do you mind asking how many hours that it takes you to do the work? If the pair of pilaster and the top/two side frame boards are purchased. How much we should expect the the approximate labor cost will be if hiring a contractor to do the job? Hope to hear from you. Thank you so much!
I can't remember the exact size lumber that I used for this project, but, I would think it may have been 2 x 10. 2 x 8 would've been a bit small for the span
Great video series. I lucked out with drilling. Made a jig for drill press. Marked center & drilled . Had 10 & 12 inch marks & just slid holes to them. Also 2 inch for centers. Obviously my home . Wouldn't be worth hauling a drill press to job site
I'm sorry, it's been awhile since I did this work, so, I can't remember exactly what you're referring to. I would guess that I would've used a washer and lock washer under the nut. But, as I said it's been awhile since this job. Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed the job
I watched ypur whole series on the deck build. Excellent job. I really liked the way the screeneze looked so we bought it also. Great system but as you noted very pricey. We paid an outstanding crew to do the roof. I felt that was a little over my framing level. Glad we did. They cut out the soffit & opened up the existing roof & tied into the existing roof trusses to get a good pitch. Pretty job. Hard to find guys like this now a days. I actually fired the 1st crew 3 shot days in. To the point of installing screeneze today. Thaks a lot & you seem to be one of those workers that really cares about your work. Keep it up & thanks again
Thank you very much for the kind words. I'm glad that the series helped you to make decisions on your own project. I did like using the screeneze for the screen. It gives a nice finish. It is hard to find people who care as much as you do in the construction field nowadays. Again, I'm glad these videos helped you and thank you for the comment.
If I'm remembering correctly you make the plumb cut of the angle for the new roof and then using a speed square from the top surface pivot out the remainder from 90(deg) the existing roof pitch. So, if the existing roof is 4/12 then angle away from you to 71.5deg. I don't do this frequently enough, but, im pretty sure that is the way. Every time I have to do this it takes awhile for it to come back to me. I hope this is helpful
The top cut on the rafter is a plumb cut that is the pitch of the new roof. The bottom cut should be 45 degrees with a bevel that is the pitch of the original roof. I hope that is helpful for you. I know a lot of people have questions about this portion of the build.
Hi Horst, your series are truly fantastic walkthroughs of any given project - I'm a huge fan and grateful for the time you spend putting these together. Regarding the R-30 fiberlgass insulation and 2" PolyISO under the addition, have the owners encountered any moisture or rotting issues as a result of that installation? It seems it's effectively sealing in any moisture that may get into the insulation zone. I"m building a 32' x 6' covered porch in Vermont atop 2x10s and am leaning towards only using 7.25" R-30 Rockwool, running PVC paneling over bottom of the deck joists, adding two 2" vents, and leaving the remaining joist space as a ventilation avenue. Thank you again for all your videos!!
I haven't been inside those bays to check for any moisture issues. The main reason that I installed that foam board was to maintain insulation under the ductwork. You're right about the moisture issues being possible, but, I can't say for certain without putting eyes on it. Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you enjoyed watching the job. Good luck with your project
Maybe an extra 1/2 inch in both directions. It's been awhile, but, I think that's what I did. You'll have about 1/4 inch all around. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching
I've always just framed right over the existing roof for speed. There's no real reason to remove the existing shingles, but, you could if you prefer. I always cut away the shingles as needed before weaving in the new shingles from the addition. I'm always in a rush once I start this kind of project to get it under roof, so, speed is my main concern. Thanks for the comment....I can't believe it's been 6 years already
Here is the thing the only thing to remember if your happy with it that's all that counts. People will always pick your work apart after the fact its finished and they didn't help . so I always say to those people where were you when I was doing it good work my friend
Great video! Do you have a video showing how you tie in the new roofing shingles in the valley to the existing roofing shingles or do you know where a good video may be on RU-vid? Can I ask why you didn't remove the roofing shingles underneath the gable roof addition? I thought that you are always supposed to remove them. Thanks.
I'm sorry, but, this is the only video where I weave into an existing roof. I don't have any video that I can recommend to you. You could remove the shingles underneath the over framing where the new roof ties into the existing house, but, you do not need to remove them for it to be built. Anyone that I've worked with in the past has chosen not to remove them, so, it is normal to me. Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you enjoyed the job
11:00 I notice you don't like to use joist tape (black butyl that comes in 50' rolls to protect exposed edges), but assume that's a choice you made specifically for the enclosed portion of the screen porch.
I think you basically re-discovered an old geometric axiom, that the diagonals of a trapezoid can ALSO be equal, just like a rectangle. I'm always making boo boos like that dang rim beam SNAFU. Glad to know I'm not the only one.
So you never ever add wood preservative to your cut ends? Some people are religious about that (I'm in the middle), though today's PT lumber is so crappy it rots and splits the moment you turn your back, anyway. Especially the stuff from HD or Lowes.
17:00 One alternative way to deal with the mismatch between your 3" beam and the 2x4's you're installing there would be to lay the cripples at 90-deg., with their wide side flush against the outside. Gives you plenty of structural strength for the roof (not that any is really needed) plus more nailing surface for the siding. Anyway, that's how I do mine. 🙂
12:00 Although I haven't tried it, I wonder if some slender stainless steel brads would serve better fastening down that T-111 to the knee wall. Screws always seem to chew it up and promote rot, whereas stainless (maybe aided by some construction adhesive) should give plenty of grab without the gouges.
I agree with your opinion, but, my jobs are dictated by my customers. The customer changed his mind and wanted the T1-11 covered with siding, so, in the end it wouldn't have made much of a difference. Very few customers will pay for stainless fasters, which, is what settles this kind of discussion. Thanks
9:30 I may have to dispute the claim that deck screws can or should be used as "utility screws" (i.e. installed anything but vertically straight down). They are hella brittle compared with true construction screws and, of course, 10p or 12p nails.
18:30 I'm scratching my head about how your shallow cuts for the high side of those roof rafters came to be calculated. Gonna watch to the end to see how you bridge the resulting gap, since you obviously planned it. But if you had to do it over again, why not have those rafters "sitting on" the existing roof as much as possible?
The cost of the porch work was 17.5k in early 2019. This would probably be considerably higher now with the increase in material pricing. I've also been told that my pricing is low. I hope this helps you. Thanks for the comment
Thank you! I found our rake extentions are just OSB with no supports. You showed me how to resolve this simply without having to notch out rafters. Woo hoo! I can do this! ❤️ - Marisa
I'm live in Maryland and I do not travel for work. I'm sorry I wish I could help you more. It's hard to find a good contractor nowadays. Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for this video, exactly what I was looking for- to extend the roof and build soffits as existing roof edge doesn’t protect siding and windows from elements.
You're welcome and I'm glad this video could help you. In a perfect world you could extend your framing back through to tie into your "second" truss/rafter while cradled by your first truss/rafter. This would make for a stronger overhang. Thanks for watching
@@horstcarpentry Thank you very much for this advice, next week the contractor will come with the plan of work and now it will be easier to understand the options for extension; complicated task as our 1975 roof splits into two parts with one regular slope connected to the short vertical wall with skylight windows ( where the leak is) and cathedral ceiling below it. It will be interesting to see what solutions the contractor will have to build the soffit- just along the roof ridge or maybe along the slope as well. THANK YOU, your video is the only one on RU-vid that shows how the extensions should be constructed!
Well thank you and I'm glad it could help you with your project. Remember, depending on how your roof is constructed you could tuck the framing back into the first true truss/rafter. If he brings that up (or maybe you could ask if he could build it that way) as an option it's the strongest way to go. The way I built it here will work though and many companies build overhangs this way. I hope everything works out for your project. Thanks again
if you were going to replace your cabinets would you recommend placing tile underneath the cabinets as well? We have a similar project and are wondering what most do with the dishwasher, cabinets and , in our case, a gas stove.
Not having tile underneath the cabinets allows you to easily install the toe kick and in case you need more height underneath the counter for the dishwasher etc you could leave it out. Thanks for watching
Yes, you could hang the joists off a ledger using hanger brackets. I felt that it was nicer and more permanent to set them back onto the existing top plate of the wall. Thanks for watching
