Thanks for your video, I've just ordered one on gumtree, from, I think, a reputable seller. Mines a pocket watch version, the photos show the tinniest evidence or moisture on the rachet wheel otherwise it looks clean. The seller claims perfect working order and amazing condition for it's age, we shall see I guess. I paid $175 including express postage, a pocket watch suits me as I don't want to 'wear a watch'. I like antique pocket watches but see them as a bit delicate, so this seemed to me to be a good compromise. I have a collection of antique clocks, these are easy to work on and clean and lubricate , which is what I do when I buy one. Working on a watch is out of my comfort zone however. My question is, should I just use it till it gives problems, if it ever does, or is it worth having it serviced as soon as I can afford it. Obviously the best thing would be a service but does the watch justify the expense, also what would I expect to pay. Thanks, John.
HI i am doing a refurb on one of these I found with a delightful "tornado" style dial that I got on the cheap due to a good bit of verdigris on the case in addition to a missing crown. can you help me by pointing out (or describing) the method to remove the winding stem? To my untrained eye it looks as if the small screw that was left under the barrel brige is the correct one to loosen to get the stem to release. i want to loosen it and tug/tap the stem out. what do you recommend?
Plastic day change finger is not installed correctly. Metal pin should be inside asymmetrical cutout, not in the semi-round. Both metal and plastic finger should be in opposite to change day and date simultaneousle
Great explanation! Did you test these watches with a reference system so that you can be absolutely shure that your statements concerning what should be the results are true?
From a mechanics point of view all your points are spot on. But this is a hobby of passion and with that some practicality goes out the window. Car people know Alfa Romeos are terrible cars but that doesn’t stop people from lusting after them. Or fantasizing about driving them on a sunny day in south of France. You accept some inconvenience in order to have some things you want. Is that ideal? No. But how many things in life are perfect? Here is a question. If you could service/repair it and you had full OEM support would you charge the same price for a 7s and it’s derivatives as you would for an 8l35? Based on everything you said it shouldn’t be much different. It’s simple with less parts. I don’t think you would. I think you would ride the “premium” train a charge more. I do agree with you that due to a lot of ignorance there is some major overblown hype on these. At the current +\-$3k price these are at in 2024 they are much more expensive then they used to be, but so is everything else. A Sub is $9500, in that light an sbdx017 or whatever for $2500 street price is way less. Not as good but 8/10s there. Certainly a great deal for me because it ticks all the other boxes. And if I have to send it to Japan once every 7 years. So what. It’s not a car that needs a service every few months.
I charge a fixed rate for 3 hander and 3 hander chronometer, so it would be 3 hand chronometer rate if OEM parts were available. You do you, if you don't mind sending it to Japan every service cycle, then cool. My main point is what you get for your money. The marketing around these movements pushes them as something mythical, and they simply aren't. That aside, I have a real problem with OEM manufacturers trying to control your watch from the cradle to the grave. SEIKO isn't alone in this, several of the other big brands do it as well. It significantly reduces the freedom you have to do what you want with your property, for no other reason that straight up profits for the OEM. Some people know I'm part of the Right to repair movement and strongly believe you should be able to choose your repairer. Without technical information and parts available, the OEM can choose to kill your product at any time they like. It may be within 10 years, may be 20, who knows. Also, without the parts out there, the aftermarket will not be able to fix your watch when that happens. It's a very nasty problem waiting to happen. There will be no vintage scene for these watches.
I note that this video is three years old. I have my 8L35s serviced at the Seiko service centre in Bangkok, Thailand. A service and case polishing is a fraction of the price for a Swiss watch overhaul.
I just sold mine. Bracelet felt incredibly cheap. Case size was also just too small in my opinion. If it was 41mm, or they release a new pogue I'll be all over it.
Bracelet sucks. As it's a direct re-release of the 1960's watch, it's the same size. Dinner plate sized watches weren't in fashion back then as people wore them, all the time, so smaller was better,
I started servicing a similar one (61A without calendar), but when I opened the mainspring barrel lid, mainspring cracked. Do you know where can I get a modern or generic mainspring that suits this movement? I'm in Japan and I can't find the original part anywhere (ref. 401525?). I suppose I can find a similar watch and extract the part, but that shouldn't solve the problem as I get another incomplete watch and another risk of broken spring... So frustrating!
Very good pics. Would like to see a video on adjusting the index and pawl fingers using the brass gage that is supplied with the top plate of the movement
It really depends where the trimmer is set to already. I don't remember which direction it is because I always do it on a Flashtest or QT-77. As the trimmer is so sensitive and just takes a whisker to change, I wouldn't try it without diagnostic equipment.
Hey man, I don’t watch a lot of these types of videos anymore but I have been thinking about buying the Marinemaster 300 and found your video. What do you think? Are they worth it?
Up to you really. Just be aware it has to go back to SEIKO for service and they generally have a very long lead time, 9 months at present last I heard.
I realize this is an old video, but a small correction, the 6138 watch is the better movement than the 6139 because it has manual wind, and day/date quick set, but it pulls out to 1st position to set day/date, and of course 2nd position to set the time. So no pushing, and it’s dead reliable.
The 5740A and 5740B movements are low beat. Both are found in the 5740-0010 models. The large balance wheel is the giveaway here. The 5740C is the high beat version, with a smaller balance. Also, the crown may not be genuine on your example, as the knurling appears to be coarser than what is typically seen on the 5740-0010.
Thanks, yeah I've never had an A or B here before, but have had dozens of C's through here and didn't check the tech sheets before making the video. I checked a few of my parts books for the crown and it does specify 55W12, which is a crown with a finer spline on it, domed "hat" and no SW. That said, a google image search does show some examples having the old SW crown, so it's a tough one to call. They have been known to change the appearance of parts over a production run. I think you are most likely correct though, that it is the finer spline part and this has been replaced at some stage.
I have a spare NE88 laying around in a watch so ugly that it defies belief. I was wondering if a 7753 dial will fit this movement, and if this movement will fit a case made for the 7753. Thank you in advance,
Is it better/healthier for this particular movement to leave the chronograph running? I know it is recommended in the 6138/39. Just wondering if the same goes for this one. Thanks!
I think you missed the point of what is being done here. SEIKO didn't advise anything. What I'm doing here is installing jewels on both sides of the barrel as these movements are prone to very serious barrel arbor wear after 50 years of service. The jewels fix the problem permanently.
I thinks this is a great watch and too often overlooked by Seiko collectors. I bought mine recently and can't stop wearing it. Its my new favourite at the moment.
A proper POGUE. Says Meter 70 Resist at the 9 Oklok position. I've owned one since 19 71 and its till keeps good time . And my watch FACE or the DIAL HAVEN'T FADED AWAY .
It's pretty easy, it's just via the small screw on the regulator arm. If you can't adjust it within what the screw can compensate for, your watch needs service.
Watch out for the pogue chronograph coming out next year. It's going to be quartz unfortunately but will be a faithful copy of the original. I've also heard there's a Bullhead 6138 reissue coming soon for the 60th that will be a kinetic
