[TECH] - EARLY SEIKO 6139A Chronograph Teardown (FEB 1969) - Is It HANDMADE?

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In this video I disassemble one one of the earliest SEIKO 6139A movements made. It dates to FEB 1969, which was the first month of production. Here you can see the differences and possibly signs of hand finishing.
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8 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 12

@trevoryounger2107 4 года назад

It's always good to see these old classics get fixed up , I will be sending my 6139 over to you shortly to get a spruce up

@hal0eight 4 года назад

Thanks! sounds good!

@thewristwatchexperience8153 4 года назад

Some people get sniffy about plastic parts but Valjoux and Lemania used plastic in chrono movements. Tissot even made a whole movement mostly in plastic back in the 70's. Thanks for the teardown.

@hal0eight 4 года назад

I think the plastic is OK when used in the right places. The date wheels are good candidates. I don't like what they did with the Lemania 5100. The "Astrolon" plastic or whatever Lemania called it sucks. You can't even clean it with alcohol without it going milky. I always say when someone says "Swiss" and "Low Cost" in the same sentence, don't walk, run. The Sistem 51 is a great example. Carbon Neutral?, Nah mate, we're Swiss. How stupid to spend all that time, energy, etc making a watch which simply goes in the garbage within 10 years? They should be drawn and quartered by militant environmentalists.

@adrianbirkett594 4 года назад

Nice watch!, love the winged balance!. Good video, thank you. Adrian

@hal0eight 4 года назад

They're great, it makes the movement look really high quality. Also the balance vibrates less when worn.

@BlackBeastSupra 4 года назад

would love to see a assembly video of the 6139. and what kind of oils you are using. dont think you can find such a video on youtube

@hal0eight 4 года назад

Geday, Assembly is hard as I'm really concentrating on getting the oiling right and not dropping dust everywhere. Oil wise, I use 9010 for the end stones and most of the train pivots. HP1300 for the center wheel, barrel arbors etc. 9415 on the pallet stone faces. 9504 in the keyless works. Int he barrel I use 8213 on the walls and 8201 for the spring.

@Supercruze 4 года назад

Overall, the movement looks excellent. I did note some brassing on the outer edges of the upper chrono bridge. is the automatic winding mechanism worn allowing the winding weight to tip? Can you stake the retainer for the rotor ball bearings to tighten it up?

@hal0eight 4 года назад

Geday, This one was really nice. It's common for some brassing to be in the track of the auto wind weight. They just clip them when being worn sometimes. The auto wind weight on these is massive and quite heavy so I don't think there's heaps you can do to prevent it. You can stake out and replace the bearings in the auto wind frame. I haven't done one for a while but it's pretty easy to do. I usually use HP1300 on the balls as I think 9010 is too thin. The thicker grease helps to take up wear as well.

@MsAppleseed 4 года назад

Almost all parts from that chronograph assembly are different and not interchangeable with 6139B!!! Center chronograph wheel, Barrel&Train bridge, Framework for automatic device, Chronograph bridge, First coupling lever, Second coupling lever...................... Only Operating lever spring, Pillar wheel+ring(Column wheel)and the Resetting hammer are same for 6138A/B and 6139A/B The Resetting hammer is hand finished because A movements does not have eccentric pin like B movement. The hand finishing is on the contact surfaces for the hearts of center chronograph wheel and minute recording wheel to achieving resetting to "0"mark on both registers.....................

@hal0eight 4 года назад

That's right. The B series movement is slightly taller so that nixes all the interchange. You can drop in a B series center wheel and top bridge if you really need to. The only difference on the coupling levers is the additional tang on the B series to operate the hour counter operating lever on the 6138. The service manual suggests to stone the faces of the hammer to try and correct zero issues but I've found that method to be ineffective and "nebulous" when solving that problem. It's nearly always to do with a loose or cracked sweep hand and sometimes dur to a weak clutch spring. You can bend the clutch spring slightly to tighten it up.