Welcome! We are Hector and Marcela, the owners of Efficient Build, a small construction company in the state of Colorado. We are building our own forever home in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado. We are sharing our experience with you on all-things construction such as planning, permits, regulations, construction trades, materials, logistics, managing a small business, and everything that goes into building a house. We are glad you are here, thank you for joining us!
I'm sorry I wouldn't know right now! We have come to a solution that works very well. That is by putting a straight board and clamp it. Then use that board as a guide. I'd say cheaper. To be honest, I haven't liked the plastic in the long run of these Bora tools.
Thank you! We appreciate the feedback. Our weekly progress (this kind of video) are edited by AI. Thanks for letting me know. Did you like the previous format where I briefly explained what we did? We do have the long form videos, etc, the same.
LOVE what you guys are doing, and the way you describe and explain things... the accents are icing on the cake 😊 It doesn't hurt that I'm a Makita guy myself 😅
We call this egg shelling in the UK, it may be a pain in the ass to set up and get down but my oh my is satisfying to look at once you’ve completed it 😂
We are working to improve our thinset leveling. That was the most time consuming part of it all. Now imagine doing that in 340 square meters! I might not have a back after that.
Just looks, we wanted the panel facing that way and the holding clamps only went one way... etc. Not an expert by any means on strut stands so we got what worked to have the panel face that way.
It is actually required in new codes independent of the Zip Sheathing. I talk some about it here: at 5:10. The Ice and Water Shield is thicker and self healing. It's a good idea. Zip Systems sell their own version as well.
It looks like you want to refer to 2021 IRC Section R905.1.2, which says not less than 24 or 36 inches from the inside of the exterior wall line depending on slope.
I saw (4) Service Sleeves in that one wall--what is each for? Did the concrete contractor have a problem with you drilling holes in their forms? Also, are the Weep Hole sleeves for the retaining walls?
You might notice we have actually 8 service sleeves, each two are for having access to the mechanical room below grade. In short 4 sleeves coming from the mechanical room. This way we can run electrical and plumbing directly into the main house from the mechanical room. I only specified the location of the sleeves , sizes, and I provided them at the right length. The concrete contractor took care of putting them in the forms. They don't drill their forms, but I let them do what they do. They did good. Yes, the weep holes are only for retainer walls. This way if there happens to be any water accumulation behind the wall it can weep without adding extra pressure on the wall.
It's a very complex foundation, I'm not sure if you got a chance to see the previous two episodes where we build it, here they are: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E1-k1X8z1bc.htmlsi=bHauhZcT4XCNPuPH ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nxS9r0ReCdU.htmlsi=WOvmr9hVKn_wD2O_ We also didn't want to pay the engineer to think about it. Also, not many people know how to build ICF foundations and didn't want to risk it on this one. Also, haha, most ICFs use open cell foam insulation that has the tendency to retain water and lose its R value over time. We wanted to have good water proofing with Bituthene, then using the closed cell XPS having an extra layer of water protection, and finally the drainage mat. Lots of little things...
Love the details. A shame that your getting a bit of deflection, but better to have it like that on the shed than the main house for sure!!! Love that comfortboard 80 detail too. Really nice. Any insulation inside underneath the roof sheathing? Cannot wait to see where this build goes. Great job guys!
Hey Aaron, for sure, the shed is the perfect place to experiment and learn! Yes, we have 2x12 rafters and it's fully filled with Comfortbatt, in fact, you'll see it on the next video 😀!
Does the rockwool have any tendency to slide and compress over time? The incline on the roof is pretty gentle, but I didn't notice any stops or attachment that would prevent the rockwool from moving.
They make three versions of Rockwool, this ComfortBoard 80 is rated for outdoors, that means it is a bit more sturdy, it's pretty good at keeping its shape and not compressing on its own. In fact the 80 in the name means it can handle up to 80 lbs per square foot without compressing. The perimeter extensions, the 2 by's, hold everything in place from sliding off. Then within, rockwool keeps itself in place due to its physical characteristics.
I don’t know why I haven’t found your channel before, but I’m glad I can see more of your projects now. It was great spending some time with you guys at IBS.
@@efficientbuild yea, to me, as a homeowner who enjoys doing some DIY projects, I would rather have some extra space and perhaps a couple of extra inches of wire over more wire nuts. I am currently replacing all the duplex receptacles in my 45 year old home. Some of them just are a bit loose and do not hold the plugs tightly. Every single one has the wiring cut too short. I wish I had known this before I bought the house. If I could wave a magic wand and change things, all the electrical boxes would be just a little bit bigger. I would gladly support a code requiring 30%-50% more space. I don't understand why ther are so small.
Some electricians wind a spool of cable outside the box. I find that waste full, cable is expensive. By code, the cables need to extend at least 3 in from the edge of the box. You might find it crazy, but some want boxes that fit in 1.5" cavities.
It could be, but a lot of American Homes I've been to, tend to have a bouncy floor that makes it very uncomfortable. We will be adding tile and radiant heat that could easily crack with deflection, so we wanted to make sure to limit bounce as much as we could and the 1-1/8" helps us do that.
What a great idea to avoid to big expense canisters of spry adhesive. Thanks! Can you please tell me how much coverage you got from a can of the 90 spray adhesive? It would be great to help estimate how many cans we will need.
I don't remember too well, I believe it was anywhere from 5-7 cans per roll depending on how crazy you go. We would typically buy extra from Home Depot or Lowe's knowing we could return what we didn't use.
I noticed you used StegoTack Tape on the walls and then Crete Claw tape on on the floor near the wall. It was not in the install guidelines but make sense to me to do this. I was curious how you came up with this idea. Beautiful installation! I have watched this video several times. Thx for the pointers.
Thank you! We really appreciate comments like this. TBH, I think we saw the installation procedure on a @StegoIndustries video. It might've been a comercial application. I looked for it and did not find it.
Thank you very much 😀! The cistern is buried below the frost line where we live. In our case the top of the cistern is buried 4 feet below ground. The earth keeps it warm enough.
It looks like the "manhole cover" is sitting at grade level though. Is the top of the cistern at 4 feet below grade? How to you keep cold air from dropping down into the tank via the manhole cover? I ask because my husband and I are planning a build in Colorado at 8300 ft elevation and have many of the same requirements and concerns. We're watching all of your videos and really appreciate your attention to detail and the thorough explanations. @efficientbuild
Ah, never mind the second question. I see now that there is a pipe on top of the tank/cistern which probably accounts (together with the cap) for the 4 feet under grade requirement.
Yeah, the manhole has a pipe extension to the proper depth. I wouldn't doubt the top of the water freezes, but not all of it. Snow accumulates on top of the manhole, which acts as insulation as well. The intakes are at the very bottom. The tank itself is like 5ft high too.
One more thing, in that episode we ran the electricity underground straight into the mechanical room. Which is what we wanted to do, but to pass inspection we actually need a switch disconnect on an exterior wall of the house, for the fire department to have easy access. I mention it so you don't make the same mistake we did.
It's looking so good guys. I'm loving the progress. So cool that you're getting to use all of that engineered lumber. I wish so badly I had known it was even available back when I built my house in 2017. I think it's a worthy upgrade over traditional lumber. Keep the videos coming, and great job!
Thank you very much Aaron! I love engineered lumber. The roof 2x12's crack so easily, I wish they made LSL's that big. On an LSL you can put a nail in the very corner and it doesn't crack, we love them!
