Do it yourself Bri is a channel committed to providing quality instructions and how to videos for a vast array of DIY projects. The channel supplies do it yourselfers with accurate information to budget, create, build, fix, estimate time and tools needed to successfully complete your DIY project.
Bri is an avid do it yourselfer, outdoorsman, mechanic, carpenter, and handyman. He loves a good challenge and all types of DIY projects. Bri is personally committed to helping other's successfully complete their do it yourself projects.
Look for my upcoming video's on home improvements, minor and major car repairs, car audio installation, home theater installation and setup, dishwasher installation, how to unclog drains, subwoofer box design, website design, how to start your own business, complete car details, car buffing, car waxing, car interior shampooing, digital antenna installation and setup, ATV and motorcycle repairs, small engine repair and many more!
Perfect video, this was exactly our issue. We didn’t have any extra wire or a desoldering tool and the soldering iron was not great but we got it back together at $0.
I know you are trying to make money on this car, but I didn't see any new bottles of antifreeze being poured into your refill jug to go in the cooling system. Could you have used a filthier funnel to pour either the old coolant or the new stuff?......smh. Also, there's s block drain bolt that needs to be removed underneath the engine in between the Oil pressure switch and the oil filter. Quite a bit of coolant will come out of there. How certain were you that you had the correct concentration of antifreeze in the system after your test drive? I didn't see you use one of the floating bead tester to double check that. Most cars these days use the spring clamps because they provide equal tension on the entire circumference of the clamping area. Also, You'll never crack the plastic inlet nozzle like you could with a skinny worm drive clamp you were replacing. Let's get practical here..... that system will have what?.....12-14 psi in it before the cap bleeds off any pressure excess? As far as burping the cooling system, a clean version of your funnel system should be all you need. If the thermostat hasn't opened yet you will have trouble getting the air out of your heater core, assuming you moved the heater lever all the way open and turned on the fan. As long as the fluid level in your funnel bowl is higher than the rest of the cooling system, any air in the system will seek "highest ground" and throw bubbles as long as the motor is running and the thermostat is wither removed or open. If the coolant hoses are as old as the radiator, how much longer will they last?? I realize this wasn't a flush and fill video and maybe you have one on your channel, but if I'm doubling my investment on this vehicle by buying a new radiator for it, it would be nice to show the DIYers the other things that THEY need to do just in case they plan on keeping their 'Rolla for another 10 or 12 years. The $40 or so invested in getting the CarFax on this car could save you a lot of time and money on what the service history ( or lack thereof) of the vehicle is. Non rusty 8th gen "Rollas in good shape are still bringing $2k in our part of the country.
I have a radio that I took out of a Jeep I've been trying to hook it up in the house but it has the funny colored wires The only one I can make out is red and black for positive and ground can anybody help me with the rest of this
Thanks Bri for this video, very clear instructions and easy to follow. Really appreciate the effort you and your son put into taking this video 7 years ago. It was a great Father's Day bonding for me and my son to fix the same window on our Honda Pilot.
I have a 2004 Highlander (basic). I followed your repair advice and it worked perfectly. Thanks. Now, however, I have another issue which you may be able to provide some insight. The other day, out of the blue, the digital clock light stopped illuminating and the light on the AC button was not on, even though AC was cooling my car. I also noticed that the Hazard button would not come on, even though it too was functional. I check the interior and engine fuse boxes (specifically the heater fuse 15A, Radio No.2 fuse (7.5A), and the ECU-B fuse 7.5A in the Engine Junction Block) - all of the fuses were not blown. Not sure what else to check. Any ideas? Thanks! WR
Bro I spent a hour and a half trying to find the right diagram for the radio wiring. It got dark, so i'm waiting till tomorrow to give it another go. I watched this and it look like you guys got all the wiring done in like 15 minutes haha
Thank you Brian. I tried to solder 1st time in my life and it worked. I mess up with wire lock clip while pulling up and break it (might be very old). I use hot glue to hold wire in the clip board and it work well. Best way is open the clear plastic at the back and release wire at the top side. Now both heat and AC are working perfectly.
I know this is not the point of the video, but you seem like the guy to ask. I have the 2002 Silverado 2500 HD. The piece directly below the 3 auxiliary ports on my truck wont stay in place. Do you know that part to order to replace that? I can't figure out what it would even be called! And, can it be upgraded to a cupholder instead? Not many cupholders in this truck...
Is this the same for Chevy Express Vans i have a 2002 and needa replace the bulbs on the cluster and climate control module there all pretty much burnt out
So on my 02 Silverado it doesn’t ever cut out it’s always lit up but over the years the light gets more dull now to see the mileage I have to hold my hands over it to make it dark would that be the same issue or is that something else?
Help! I connected the red radio wire to the car wire that gives power when you have the lights on and now when I turn the lights on the radio turns off. This can cause a short circuit;
What if they were all cut at once and now my car won’t start ? Was running just fine. And my friend cut all the wires at ounce and now I can’t get the vehicle to run it will crank but not run
You couldn't be more wrong... frictional drag is just the coefficient of friction times the weight, period! Apparent contact area has nothing to do with it. You just can’t see the real contact area. With A6, we had 10 oz divided up and supported by the 6 axles pressing down on the bottoms of 6 wheel bores. If you had a microscope, you could see perhaps 1/1000 of the apparent contact area was actually the area where real atoms in the axle bottom were touching real atoms in the bore surface. When you go to body D3 or E3, you double the weight pressing down on each bore surface so that now about 1/500 of the apparent area is really atomic forces dragging against atomic forces. Thus you have doubled the drag per wheel so overall nothing changes. The same effect means there is no overall difference in drag in how the 10 oz is distributed among n wheels. You could have 90% on one wheel and 10% on several other wheels. All of this may seem odd but remember you can’t see where the real drag action is. Now, if you push things to an extreme, like put 1 pound force on one wheel vs. on 100 wheels, you may start to see deviations in overall drag based on distortions in the materials themselves. But, to a very good approximation, with modest sliding or rubbing conditions, frictional drag only depends on weight being applied times the coefficient of friction... source: pinewoodderbyphysics.com/pdf%20files/Lecture%2011.pdf
The compound used is irrelevant because you took the clouding off the light using 3 grades of sandpaper. You might as well just do the same thing buying only the sandpaper and skip the compound using something cheap like toothpaste with baking soda in it for £1. Bit of a con really, trying to sell it based on the compound used in the pack, but really the sandpaper is doing 99% of the job that you can buy seperate
I am extremely grateful for your video. How you did the layout, the detailed explanations. It's like spectacular coming from someone who knows bsolutely. nothing about vehicles except one pedel, makes it go, and the other 1 makes it stop. That is about the extent of my knowledge when it comes to vehicles. I applaud you, sir, for taking the time out of your day to make this video. It was extremely helpful. I would not have been able to fix this or afford to have someone fix it for me. Thank you again. Please keep up the good work. Thank you.
I have a 99 GMC Sierra that the odometer and PRND321 flickers off and on in half sections. I assume this video is the fix for that but the gauges,tach,speedometer will go off and the battery light comes on. Then I hit a bump and it all comes back on again. That started around the time I installed a backup camera to my stereo. The flickering odometer started much later. Ideas or comments?
Thank you so much for making this video. I had the same issue for way too long. I purchased the new screen from Amazon and did everything step by step. Only issue I had was that I didn’t initially align the ribbons just right and screen didn’t turn on. Once I did, turned right on and screen worked like a charm. Thanks again!
Does it matters what size the motor if its fits? I mean the brushes at the end of it? Because i changed mine with another one not the same but it fits..
Great stuff. Problem I'm having with my 05 Dodge Ram. First, in addition to the standard black/green ground I also have a solid black wire. Second, I have two identical wires showing constant 12v, both gray/red. Any ideas anyone? Thanks.
