Thanks for checking out Mac's Boneyard Builds. If you are looking for budget minded, do it yourself style channel featuring hot rods, garage projects, and all-around DIY content; you found it. I am not a full-time content creator, so videos will be posted as life happens, but I will always try to keep you up to date on projects happening around the Boneyard Garage. I hope my projects inspire you to get your hands dirty, jump in with both feet, and tackle that project you have been wanting to start!
I would love to, but I barely have enough time to tinker on my own projects. It may seem intimidating, but with a little time and some trial and error, you can do it.
I should’ve gone with an ls swap but I went with a pro flo 4 setup on my vortec 350. It runs good though. I’ve driven it on 1500 mile road trips without any issues. If that motor goes I may do an ls swap. I’ll probably get the pro flo setup for the ls too
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a good 350. I would have stayed with the 350 longer if the trans hadn't gone out on me. That was the domino that fell that set me into motion to do my swap.
Before engines had forced crankcase ventilation, natural ventilation through a breather cap to relieve the crankcase pressure was more than adequate. These days, with the lighter oils and the forced crankcase ventilation equipment, oil mysteriously disappears. I eliminated my forced crankcase ventilation and went back to the old style, using breather caps. Before I did that, I was mysteriously losing a quart of oil every 1,000 miles or less. Since doing that, I hardly use any oil at all. I know that in some states this would be a problem but where I live it isn't.😊
You know I haven't tried. I believe you can, and I plan on swapping out to electrical at some point on my C10. (As in, I've had the fans sitting in the corner for a year 🤦♂️)
I can’t seem to find a diagram for a 95 obs originally a 4.3 5 speed truck… I’ve been searching over a week and all the diagrams I’ve found was incorrect
@@macsboneyardbuilds I found the manual but it still showing wires I don’t have for example a-2 no wire on my bulkhead but it shows a wire on the diagram… I don’t know if I’m looking at the v-8 wiring diagrams or what
Do you have a backprobe, or wire chaser. You may have to do it the tried and true method and just start testing which wires in the cab coordinate with the wires in the bulk head. Slow and tedious, but it works. I agree, I've poked around the net looking for what you need, and it is not readily available like many others.
I can’t find any info for the 95 obs originally a 4.3 5 speed truck 6.0 swapped with 4l80e I’ve been searching for the bulkhead connector pin out.. the red and blue computer connectors also look different from 96-98
Let me know when u figure out the segment swap portion of the fuel level tune, I’m fighting that right now myself. I’ll let you know what I figure out.
Do you think the wrong year cluster (or cheap dorman aftermarket) can cause gauges to fluctuate slightly also? My voltage and oil pressure gauge fluctuate around and i put in a new oil pressure sensor and had alternator and battery checked and all good.
@86calcutta yes, older gauges and sensors are going to give off not true readings. That's why if you see low oil pressure for example, the first thing to do is to check with a mechanical test gauge. A lot of times, it's not actually low. It's just a bad reading. Plus, aftermarket sensors, even new Delco parts, are known to be cheaply made and not as reliable as they were 20 years ago.
So I'm getting ready for Debbie, and I've had one of these waiting around for a rainy day. The instructions say it will turn on when the water it's in gets 1" deep and then turn off when it's 1/4" deep. Is this right? Mine just turns on when you plug it in and off when you unplug it. Is there a float valve in there that is stuck or something? I'm trying to avoid taking it apart only to find out the manual lied to me. Any info would be much appreciated.
The model I have is just plug it in and it's on nonstop. The manual may be generic to cover multiple models, which some may have an automatic feature. Always watch your water level, if it runs dry it'll burn up before you know it.
That price is right up my alley lol. Im going bone stock, I just want a modern 5.3... I can swap the drive trains no problem, just trying to get better with the wiring
I'm watching because I have 07 Silverado 5.3 exact same syntems here gauge all over the place ok my thoughts voltage regulator I buy brand new not a remanufactured new still same thing so I buy new battery still no change gauge all over the place and battery light on same thing with or without a full power load even no load at all I'm same page to wtf is it ive cleaned connections what I could get to to clean I can't find my grimlin where's it at guys
Be sure to clean all your grounds. Back of motor, under drivers side, everywhere. Sometimes, if one has a poor connection it will throw the code. I know the battery light on these trucks is super touchy
Update on my new alternator and new battery ive cleaned ground wires I unhooked my battery ground wire while running it took a minute or so running but it did die with the ground cable off now according to my old shade tree alternator testing days that indicated a bad voltage regulator inside the alternator its under warranty I'm taking it back and trying another one
Up date again one more alternator still same thing battery light comes on still discharging dash shows security lock light on what am I missing here I've cleaned both hot and ground connections that I can get to easy I do have a bad passengers side window motor even covered up during rains it still gets wet would that set off a code the truck has been wrecked on drivers side before I owned it some one guve me some good starting points here two brand alternators new battery nothing is fixing my problem I have a heavy arc hooking the ground back to battery
Came with o rings. I found gaskets on ebay that had the provision for the ring, but sealed all around the flange. They were like $7 and I have more faith in a gasket over an o ring on exhaust. They have worked out well so far for only $120.
Get a 6.0 out of a 2500 truck/suburban/van, a denali, or a escalade and a 4l80e. You'll be going from like 150hp in that 305 to over 350hp. It'll feel like a rocket, haha.
If you want to get it all out after you do that while the concrete is still wet sprinkle on a heavy coating of Ajax and let it set overnight. Wash off the next day at concrete will be bright and light
This is what people need to see more of! Realistic builds that most people can afford on a working mans budget. Thanks for documenting the process and illustrating the costs.
I did my LS swap for free!! I bought an Escalade with the LQ9 from a salvage auction for cheap, kept the engine and transmission and parted out the rest of the truck, I got my money back and made extra cash too which allowed me to buy more parts for my swap!! Also I did all the work my self to save even more!!
Damn man I want a LS motor in my truck, but in Florida just for a junkyard motor and installation it starts at $10,000. I’m like I’m not doing that and alll the person is really doing is hooking up wires basically.
That's crazy. Drive up north, pick up a motor/trans, then purchase the cherry picker, welder, whatever else you need, and you'll still be money ahead. Plus you'll learn the ins and outs of your truck.
Will this read any codes if there no check engine light? My car lost alot of acceleration power and its a 2018 stinger gt twin turbo. Really not trying to pay 300$ for a diagnostic test lol
No, it is emissions related/check engine lights only. The real time data may give you some hints like air/fuel ratios, load %, etc, but it won't tell you more than that.
@MrSkabzzPranksAndChallenges I don't recall exactly what it can and can't read. It's real basic and won't tell you everything that's going on. You may look on Ebay for a used Autel or Snapon that has all the functions for cheap.
Did your temp gauge work ? I am about to start a swap on my 98 tahoe and I was under the impression you need to keep the wiring and sensor off the 98 harness that went to the sender in the cylinder head. Single green wire I believe
@houstontaylor9799 my project has actually been idle for about a month. I knew I had 2 temp sensors on the 350 and tried the one on top. If it doesn't work, I'll be moving to the other, on the head.
