My channel is intended to share a lifetime of insider tips and tricks designed to help tradesmen and do-it-yourselfers get the job done without wasting money or time. I have been learning my entire life and have gathered knowledge from talented people. My father, my numerous uncles, and great uncles, highly gifted friends that I met working construction, farming, and my short time in the offshore oil industry, as well as good pilot and mechanic friends during my career as an aircraft pilot with the Louisiana Department of Agriculture and Forestry. Harper & Knowles Washing Machine and Dryer Repair LLC is a small appliance repair shop I took over from my late friend and business partner, Mr. Donald Harper Senior. During my mentorship with Mr. Harper, I learned the art and trade of appliance repair, which I will share with you through my videos. I hope you enjoy my channel, and please consider subscribing. Subscribers are a small reward for my efforts. Thank you for stopping by! Chip
You need to see my latest video How to Repair Washer Balance Issues Using Ben’s Shims | Maytag/Whirlpool ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oiAqkQxtJ8w.html . Thanks for watching!
38:08 I have to barely tighten the flat nut for the shaft to turn freely & easily, but it feels like it's not on very tight. If I tighten it any more, the shaft still turns ok, but it's pretty tight and a little hard to turn. On the video, it looks like you got it too tight to turn at first too, then the video cut and skipped to where it was turning freely. How tight should it be? How easily should the shaft turn?
hi I have the maytag commercial washer everything's working fine on it except the agitator the barrel will move but the agitator won't it makes a knock sound when it try to move . I also checked the shifter motor at the bottom and the spluck everything was in place. can you please help me out with your thoughts on it
You should disregard what your tenant says and diagnose it yourself. If the pump is running, hold down the start button until,it stops. Open and close the lid and press start. Or just hold down the button for thirty seconds and see if that fixes it. Thanks for watching!
I do videos about Hotpoint! I can only do videos about those models that come into my shop. I live in the USA! I don’t see many European models. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles I already had this timer apart but did not check to see if they are making contact with A thanks for pointing this out... And you're welcome
A should make contact with C. They are separated by that plastic piece but when they burn out they won’t make contact. You can bend the points down where they do make contact again but not too far as they should be separated during the fluff cycle. You might want to replace the timer if they are burned too badly.
My Amana completed cycle, but continues to run. I have to hit cancel button or open the lid to get it to stop running. I don't know what it's doing while it continues to run/make noise like it's running. My clothes do come out clean, though. Thank you for this very informative video. I'm intimidated to try to fix myself, though.
I think you are talking about the water pump running. Hold down the start button until it stops. You may be experiencing a suds lock condition. Thanks for watching!
What's the problem when you've replaced the wheels, the idler pulley and the moter pulley put your belt is still snapping. I've watched a dozen videos to make sure the belt is on correctly. The belt lasts about a week. I've been through three, hence the replacement of everything. I'm honestly confused because the felt isn't damaged either. Please help! Thanks! The belt seemed to be shredded a bit because there's rubber dust everywhere, and then it's snapped in one place.
Something is causing a severe drag on the drum if the belt is slipping on a new motor pulley. I’d make sure the rollers move freely, the motor pulley is new and the belt is correctly installed on the idler pulley and motor pulley. If the clothes you are loading it either aren’t spun out correctly it will cause a weight overload too. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Followed you exactly and fixed my washer. I bought the kit from your link. The only glitch I had was a ground wire connected to the circuit board and grounded behind the back cover. They could have placed it two inches higher and saved me the bother. Thank you!
I’ve watched a couple of your washer transmission repair videos and I have a question? I took my transmission out and I bought a new motor cause the motor shaft got ate up part way some how and my clutch is worn out so I replaced the clutch and before I had brains I just pulled up on the clutch a couple times to see if that’s how it was removed! Duh!! Well once I opened the new clutch read upaper and I removed the clip and did all my work as needed. Well once I went to put the trans back in it’s about 3/4” of an inch to far away! And it’s the washer on the clutch hitting the C clip end boss of the brake tube. So do I need to take the top of the transmission apart and get the pinion to drop back down in place and then reassemble everything and put the clutch back on or is there a way that if I just keep rotating it back-and-forth it should drop back down in place. HELP PLEASE???
The pinion gear should drop down easy enough without disassembling. I can’t imagine what’s going on here. The only problem I’ve ever had is when the clutch spring hits the brake cam. Then just rotate it out of the way. Or turn the brake cam counter clockwise while pushing the spin tube to seat it in the brake drum. It may have fallen down a bit. Thanks for watching.
@@HarperandKnowles Yea I’ve made sure it wasn’t the brake lever hitting the spring. It’s the washer covering the clip on top of the clutch hitting the brass bottom of the brake tube. I can’t figure out what has gone wrong. I’ve checked part numbers and my clutch parts are correct going by the numbers and matching them up to my old ones! I’m just dumb founded here. Can you tell the distance between the bottom of the clutch and the top of the transmission cover so I know if everything there on mine is correct? I’d really appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
If the teeth on the pinion gear match the slots in the clutch bell, retainer ring is snapped in place, C clip slid into grooves on transmission shaft, dust cover (washer) in place with the pins down and the spin tube has had the brake shoes retracted and pushed as far as possible into the center post then it should work.
Thank you for the informative video brother. I've got parts that will be here in a couple days. Both drive hub and the splutch kit. Pulley nut came off no problem but the pulley won't budge off the bolt. The splutch ring also detached no prob but the pulley won't budge. Splutch is melted where attached to washer, not pulley, so I'm thinking heat must have bound the pulley to the splutch like lock tight.
@@HarperandKnowles I applied some heat and pried off the pulley. There is a 3 pronged metal peice of the pulley that is still stuck to the shaft that is not budging. Idk what type of bonding agent they used when installing the old pulley so guess the whole shift will need to be replaced.
What if the thermistor has been changed, the control board has been changed and the temp sensors have been changed and you still get the TE error on a Samsung dryer? It's been a long arduous process of trying to get my dryer fixed. Thank God for my electric company's worry free program, but we've basically run out of ideas of what could be wrong. I hope you can provide some help. Thanks for your time.
I would check the wiring going to the thermistor. Also be sure your spade plugs are making contact with the thermistor. I once was about to throw out a machine until I did covered that when I plugged in a thermostat with an insulated spade plug connector it was sliding on the out side of the male part and felt like it was plugged in when it wasn’t. I hope you find your problem. Thanks for watching!
Hello Mr.Harper found your videos after about an hour of searching as a diesel mechanic has me thinking about starting my own business. However I’m in a predicament I have a very similar washer shown in the video and it seems to not heat very well at all, it’s a hand down that was suppose to be brand new. I could put one article of clothing and it feels “warm” after a hour in the drier alone. Thanks
1. Check the voltage going to the dryer at the cord terminal. It should read 240 volts across the outside terminals and 120 on the center and each outside terminal. 2. Check for the problem as shown in the video. 3. Check continuity of the components inside the cabinet. The thermostats and fuses. 4. Check continuity of the element. Thanks for watching!
My washer won't spin before and after the rinse cycle, the water does drain but somehow the agitator does not work. Sears Canada does not exist anymore and I've been told Kenmore 70 series have unreplacable parts. Should I buy new machine instead ?
That’s like comparing apples to oranges, isn’t it? One is a top loader and the other is a front loader. It’s completely a different technology. But, anything Speed Queen produces is top quality. Thanks for watching!
I have a kenmore washer dryer set from 1989. The dryer has never failed. The washing machine has only required the inlet valve module replaced. Replaced it myself with basic tools, very straightforward.
Do these valves also reduce water flow, had a sudden strange issue where there seems to be too much pressure/spray into the detergent draw and water is being forced out the top.
It's actually best to remove the inner tub by hand without using any kind of force on the tub and you can damage the tub more than one way and you can even the shaft if your not careful.
Chip, great repair video. I am very glad that you made this video. I ordered some of the shims a few days ago and they are supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'll definitely put one of the shims on the bottom. I didn't get one of the metal hubs yet. What is your opinion of installing the shims and using a new plastic hub? Thanks again for all the tips in this video.
I’d use the plastic hub if the splines aren’t corroded too bad. Once I use up my supply I’m going to all metal for repairs. The cost of them has come way down from when they were first introduced. Thanks for watching another one Shane!
just sharing something with you, just like you are with me in the video. when we find enough humility within ourselves to hear what someone is saying, retain it, utilize it and pass along the new found knowledge we progress to be better than we were yesterday. and its a lot more fun if we can learn to laugh at ourselves along the way
Mine doesn't click at all. Powers up fine. But won't enter into any cycle at all when I hit start. Also, when I go into diagnostic test mode and I hit start it won't run any tests on any setting either. It's a Samsung aquajet vrt. Top load. any thoughts would be appreciated. or anyone in the comments. Thanks.. Also, I used a magnet and I could hear a faint click from inside the lock. But when I hit start there is no clicking for almost every time I try this. A couple of times i could hear the washer trying to click. .....Now when I put the magnet on it I can't really hear any click inside of the mechanism as I did before. Maybe I'm just losing my mind. 🤷🏽♂
I can’t make an educated guess at the problem without diagnosing the machine myself, but you could try changing the lid lock to see if that is actually the problem. Thanks for watching!
Now this is a good analysis. Have blown thermo in my hand...won't reset. Banged it a bit on floor. Glad to buy a new one...but... Now to check the heating elements....they check out fine cool.
That means that the hole in the tub that slides over the shaft has worn to the point that it looks a bit like an hour glass. It doesn’t take much to cause the top of the tub to lean over and cause an unstable situation that only gets worse. Ben of Ben’s Appliances and Junk has come up with some shims to mitigate this situation. I’ve put them on one machine so far to test them but I’m not convinced of their success as of yet. He has a video on his channel that shows how they work. You can get them from his web site too. So far they are working on the machine I fixed with them.
Thank you so much!! I just changed one out tonight on the exact same washer. One thing I noticed is when I put the new water valve in after tightening the two screws the valve doesn't fit as snug as the one I removed, but it still worked and fixed the loud squealing.
