I live in Roseville California. We have a family of four boys. As the boys started driving cars we had to start fixing them. When your 16 and can barely afford a car you don't have the extra money to take it into the shop. So here are my videos of us working on the cars, motorcycles, boats and any thing else we have fixed. I hope you enjoy the channel . I am not an expert mechanic so please do your own research and do not rely solely on these videos.
I have a 1980 CJ5 Renegade with the 4 port canister. Does the line leading back to the tank that single steel line on the driver's side? Can you send a pic of that line leading to the tank and where it attaches to what vent tube on the tank? Thanks.
I'm so glad you made this video I have an 83 Jeep CJ7 serpentine belt driven it was missing all of these pieces on the front there in a Box including the alternator blanket. All the stuff the pully wheels all of it off of the water pump to the only pully wheel still on it is on the crank shift one . I can put my jeep back together alot easier now . Thanks man
For the nipple you couldn't get off heat the cast iron with a torch and it'll come right out worked well for me fyi for anyone else who's struggling with this. I used a screw driver on its side like a pry bar tip on one side and the shift on the other.
Sorry I did this video 5 years ago. I do not remember the details. Did you try googling Bosch injectors for 1999 Gmc 454? That is probably what I did back when I purchased these. Sorry I am not much help.
I have the same issue. I replaced all injectors and the fuel pressure regulator. This fixed the hot soak hard start probably. Now I have miss on #5 cyl only on slight acceleration and load. In 3rd gear slight load up hill. When leveled off no misfire?? I’m taking the plenum back off to see how much the injectors are pushed into the truck brake runner.
Can anyone here that has this engine please use a adjustable timing light and tell me what the timing is? I have had mine in to three different shops and they all tell me I have to take it to the dealer. My thought is if it can be set using a timing light by using the zero on the timing mark I could set my timing. I put in a brand new engine but did not mark the dizzy (my dumb ass) is this something that is possible to do I know it has to be set when the RPM's are over 1000 so the computer kicks in.
This is how I check the timing on my vortec 7.4. First I installed distributor following the method described in most all manuals. Once I'm at that point ready to start motor I plug in my code reader that displays live data. I also have my variable timing light set on number one cylinder. I start engine and read timing advance on live data code reader, usually that's 22 to 24 degrees advanced, there about. I then set my timig light to retard that same amount. turn on timing light and read timing. if I'm on the money it will read 0 degrees on crank shaft balancer. If I'm off I just move distributor small amount until live data degrees, and timing light degrees match, and timing on crank shaft balancer mark and o degree mark line up. I have never had this method to adjust timing fail to be correct. Hope this helps, I have seen lots of posts where people can't get their engines timing correct by themself's. You don't need a dealer 's scanner or to pay a dealer to set your timing. This works, has never failed for me. J.T. from Oregon This method works on 5.7, and 5.3. Should also work on 4.3 but I have not personally done it on that particular.
For anyone contemplating this job due to poor hot starts after engine heat soaks for about 30 minutes, there is another "fix". It's cheap and easy, hurts nothing if it doesn't work, but cost you the cost of the cleaner. This worked perfectly on my truck (same truck) with 200K+ miles on original injectors. Here is the easy thing to try: Run your tank down to 5 gallons or even less. Put in two bottles (the large ones) of Techron CONCENTRATE fuel system cleaner on Amazon or local parts store. The regular stuff isn't strong enough. Add 5 gallons of fresh Name Brand PREMIUM fuel (Shell, Chevron,...) Warm truck up and find a long grade where you hold your foot on the floor for as fast and long as you can (my truck speed limits at 100MPH so I hold it at 98MPH). When you get to the top, turnaround and do it again and again for as long as you have gas. Go to name brand station and add two MORE bottles of the above fuel system cleaner and fill the truck up with Premium fuel (Premium name brand fuel have additives that help this situation of clogged and weeping injectors from not happening). Any chance during this tank full, find times to floor it on grades for as long and fast as it is safe. Most of the time this will fix your weeping/leaking injector(s). If not you can try the 5-gallon method again. At a minimum, it will substantially improve your hot start problem until you can afford or schedule the injector replacement. My truck has not needed the injectors after doing the above. If for some reason it fails, you can feel good knowing you have cleaned your combustion chambers, intake and exhaust valves, and piston crowns all of which increase gas mileage. You are not out that much money and you can do it while you are driving your truck anyway and it takes no skill or tools. Hope this helps!
Hey glad to see another Bates in RU-vid land. That is my last name also. From Michigan originally. I ended up having to do a full rebuild on this engine. The noise never went away.
did this job today, funny part is legit the hardest part is the connection between the booster and pedal lmao. stupid design. lucky i had another GMT400 stuck full of parts im rebuilding and had a new clip. easy job, i suggest rebuilding it takes an hour and 30$ for a rebuild kit.
Thank you so much for the video! My water pump went up didn't have the money to pay someone did it myself with your help! Thank God , would not been able to get my truck fixed without this video!
Not sure on that. My guess is they changed a lot of the emissions parts in the 15 years between each year. Good luck and let us know if you had any luck with getting it to pass smog.
98 evap system is completely different than the primitive system found on this CJ. You need to go to your local suppler and order the canister for your specific vehicle.
Walter they usually come labeled. One port will say out (engine) one will say in (fuel tank). Sometimes there is one labeled vent. This one just vents to the atmosphere.
Mine has trouble starting after its been warmed up. if it sits for 30 minutes or more, it will sit there and turn over forever and eventually light up. When it does, smoke is shooting out of the exhaust. I've replaced filter, plugs, wires, and thinking about pump as my next replacement. Did you have this problem before you got new injectors? Because injectors will be after my fuel pump if that doesn't solve it. injectors and pump are stock from the factory. 137k miles.
You Have bad fuel injectors. When you shut the truck off after its warn the injectors leak down flooding the motor, as it sits over night or long periods of time the fuel evaporates and the flooding is gone.... Fixing this problem on mine right now.
Delphi injectors are trash (leak down).1995 f150 yellow top injectors should replace them without a computer tune. I used red corvette ls injectors but I required a tune.
i can tell you what you did wrong. I did the same thing but caught the problem before putting the plenum back on. Fuel rail was not put back on properly. Take it off again and follow this: If you go to your #2 injector area, you need to have the fuel rail mounted to the lower intake itself first, then put the stud in the hole and tighten it down. That will pull the fuel rail all the way where it is supposed to sit. Then put the sensor bracket on and tighten the nut on the stud. Done. No rigging involved.. Hope that helps! My first video comment ever. Just wanted to give back.
I think I need to replace my injectors on our 1999 RV with the Chevy 7.4L. It's hard to restart after it gets up to operating temp. I don't suppose you took pictures of this process to install the fuel rail correctly?
No I don't think I had to mess with the steering shaft. It has been awhile since I did this but I think it was from the inside of car at base of rod. I do rember it was difficult. Sorry I am not much help. Good luck.
All you had to do was loosen the alternator. No need removing pulleys to get belt off. I knew it. Just HAD to use silicone. Don't use the factory paper gasket at all. We want silicone. So it can CLOG your radiator and heater core.
I'm glad he did though I'm able to get a better look at the pullys how the alternator gose. I have an 83 Jeep CJ7 no alternator all the pullys missing in a box I got but wasn't sure how it went. No power steering on mine so still a little different than his
If you want to watch someone who has never done this job fumble through it, watch this (and all the following parts to get to completion). If you're looking for someone to quickly walk you through it, find another video.
We never got around to part #2. The boys just were not up for the task. My partner on the boat ended up destroying the boat and using some parts and trailer for a tiny house.
Have to this to by suburban next weekend is there another vid showing you completing the job.??? Like the instructions so far. thanks How did your Napa water pump perform did this one last been 2 years ??? hope all good
The impeller on the new water pump was different from the one on the old water pump and in looking at the fan, it appeared to be turning counter-clockwise. Is that the case, is the fan turning counter-clockwise?
