You could, but that doesn't always work. Plus you risk blowing the pipe off of the nipple... Then it'll just leak even worse. This is truly the best way to correct a poorly designed drainage system
I guess its too late to say this (unless you haven't dissected the other modules) but tearing the cell tabs off what they are welded on (I guess you'd call it a bus bar of sorts, the U shaped pieces of copper) but those are likely welded on by an ultrasonic welder...so not something the hobbyist can redo....and trying to do resistance spot welding is going to be extremely difficult depending on the material of the tabs (often aluminum and nickel plated copper) There are some videos here on RU-vid of people working on similar packs and fabricating compression style bus bars of their own but the question of resistance definitely exists....at the end of the day it will never be as good as the original ultrasonic weld to the copper pieces. Definitely restricts high discharge capabilities of any future battery you DIY. The best route for reusing these EV modules is to keep them together until you know what you plan on using them for and then do some brainstorming on the best way you can configure the modules to get your desired series connections by doing the fewest number of DIY series connections if you cannot replicate the original method of welding the cells together.
H ello! I have a 2016 Chevy Spark EV and noticed a lower battery range performance. Dealership performed the Electrical Systems Diagnosis ($175). They determined that the battery is functioning at 22.6 Ah, compared to the minimum 31.5 Ah. Headquarters is reluctant to act on it. They want me to "wait and see" and do another diagnostic in August. Do they think they made a misdiagnosis? Should I push for a repair order to start? The warranty expires in August, two months from now. Any advice?
I need a professional opinion: my 2016 Spark EV battery range was diminishing, so I took it to the Chevy dealership to run an electrical systems diagnosis test. The battery degradation was assessed at functioning at 22.6Ah, compared to an expected minimum of 31.5 Ah. The battery is still under warranty for another two months and the dealership headquarters are reluctant to act on it just yet. They want to run another diagnostic in August before they do anything. The first cost me over $150. Do they think they misdiagnosed a problem? Any advice?
I don't think they misdiagnosed it... As if they can make you happy by having GM pay up for a battery, then they would most likely do it. It's free money for them as it's a relatively easy repair (about 4 hours). Consider getting a second opinion at a different GM dealership. If you can, don't charge it to full for a while, charge it sporadically... It's more likely to unbalance if you do that, which may give it a lower reading. You're very close to a "failure" of 30% degradation.
@@edsautomotivehowto2706 Thanks for responding! They don't want to repair it "yet" because apparently the 1 year battery warranty ran out in 2019, and we only have the 100,000 mi 8-year warranty for general issues remaining. Since the car isn't displaying any "battery problem codes" they are reluctant to fix it, even if it is running at less than the 35% stated. FIngers crossed this can be resolved, or at least a repair order started, before the final warranty runs out.
Hey Ed, Ian here, great video! I did the math for you, that was $3560 in components you saved, plus the fluid heater and its controller, whose prices you didn't mention. So glad some great use came out of this thing and it didn't end up in a landfill! Looking forward to the rest of the series here to see how implementation goes! Wondering though, why won't you need to run coolant during use? Is it just a matter of discharge speed? I can see for the house backup not needing it, but in a higher current situation (like the scooter I see in another video) wouldn't you want to run coolant just for life extension? Maybe that's answered there, but thought I'd ask. Speaking of discharge speed, I did a little more math. The average home here uses 900 kWh per month, which comes to about 1 kW. From observation, this is equivalent to driving a Spark EV at around 2km/h (just above idle speed)! It also means the battery backup of 6 kW would last about 12 hours of normal use (assuming that average consumption of ~30 kWh is done in the waking 16 hours of the day). It might not run your oven long, but it'd be a full-power substitute in the case of short term blackouts, and could keep ten 9W LED bulbs (60W equivalent) powered for just under 3 days!
Thanks for the comment! I'm not worried about cooling these batteries even in the scooter, as the draw and charge speeds aren't enough to really heat the batteries up much. On a test run of the scooter with both my wife and I together on it going up hills and cruising around at full speed in 23C weather, the batteries never exceed 27C. As for the house... I'll probably just stick to using my car's V2L to run half the panel and just stick to using minor appliances. Other projects are coming soon. I've got a 60 volt to 110 volt inverter coming from China, so I'll be building a portable battery back soon.
Setup -> Navigation -> Guidance -> Route Options -> And here is the tricky part, there’s a icon next to the lookup (magnifier) one, it’s like an arrow around a do not symbol. Click on it and you will see the avoid ferries, toll roads and HOV
Awesome job, Ed! I could see many uses for that thing! It'd also be nice to attract all the bugs up really high and away from a person while camping. I am surprised at how bright those lights are!
Thanks for the comment! Yeah I was thinking of making a stand so I could use it in other places. I'll be testing it this weekend in the back country, can't wait 😁
*barely* Not recommended to go beyond an inch and a half. Besides, anything more starts to look terrible too, as there's big gaps between bumpers and panels.
Crap led lights though. Got mine 2021..both sides have burnt out lights now. So here I am swapping them out. Going with smoked factory style housings and using led bulbs. Pretty sure you don't have to tape them. They insert into the housing and you turn them to lock the socket in place.
BAD ASS BRO!!! I would luv to share some ideas I have about some mods I wanna do to my H3 to captivate my 4 1/2 yr Son so that way when he gets in it looks like he would be the copilot in show AirWolf with actually interactive LED switches and buttons small monitors... Kinda like the ole arcade game SPY HUNTER... I have some what of an idea that goes on top similar to the bx Fram you fashioned for your dash.. is it expensive for you to make those items?? And do you maybe take ideas fine tune them for Hummer folks lol I'm in South TX Corpus Christi trying to get to Mississippi where the Seraget mother had him after 2 reports of a No-go sorry it didn't take.. So here I GO!!! Papa Bear Driving in with Eagle One OR DJ's Battle Wagon ?? To Fight for what I want to be Accountable for a Son of my own. So I wnat to Retrofit the hummer to the amazement of a 4-5 yr old with a key of his own that turns on the rear controls and gives his new vehicle a personality of its own. I'm a firm believer in taking extra steps to making things happen.. TMI-TMI-TMI LOL
Will this work the same for a 2019 Tucson. I replaced the fuse that was burn out. But now There’s no tail gift lift coming up under the door menu if front of the steering wheel. I suppose to look at the setup / menu vehicle
If it has the smart tail gate, then yes, it'll be under "user settings" "doors" "power tailgate" "smart power tailgate". If they're both checked off and it doesn't work, then something's broken 😕
I just bought a used 2021 Hyundai Kona and I can’t connect my gps navigation to the car. Do I need blue link. When I first started the car there was a map and now it’s gone.
Nice! Battery hacker's heaven. Seems there are 15 series cells. If this block was to be used for a 48V application, it would require 13S (typical 54V) or 14S (Telecom going to 58V) for float. Once the weak cell is identified, it could be discharged manually to 0V, then shorted to leave the remaining good cells in the string functional and intact in their nice case. Could this be viable? Or would the 0V cell expand and create pressure on the adjacent cells?
It's actually 32 total cells, 2p16s This module is the only one that has issue, so I'll find the bad cell and recycle it. As for the other modules, I'll be able to use all the cells. I wouldn't risk leaving a bad cell in a pack to be honest.
Hey man, so sorry .. due to a RU-vid glitch when I was transferring these old videos to this channel, I lost part 4. I'll see if I can find it stored somewhere and upload it. But I don't think I have it anymore. I sold the trooper 5 years ago
IIRC from my time as a battery researcher (15-20 years ago), compressing pouch cells also leads to slightly higher capacity than an unconstrained cell. It's also more convenient for packaging, so it's a win-win unless they go too far into the spicy pillow stage and damage the containment. Again, it's been a minute, so take that with a grain of (lithium) salt.
No, I think you're right. I've read the same thing before. Something about preventing the battery's internals from separating too much prevents a loss in efficiency.... Or something. Lol
Quick question can I replace the battery on my spark Chevy for a larger one to get a greater range since my car just barely goes over 60 miles if possible can it increase it to over 100 miles or will that be a fantasy I’ll have to live with, thank you
While it's technically possible... It's not going to be simple. Current battery technology is of course superior to what the Chevy spark EV came with. So if you were to replace the cells with something that had a higher energy density, but the same basic specs like voltage, discharge capacity etc, then you'd have a better range. That would be the simplest way to do it. That way you'd be able to keep everything else the same and use existing BMS, controller, inverter etc. It would require 96 individual lithium ion cells, in 6 modules, each with 16 cells spot welded in series. Each module would need to be disassembled and have each individual cell removed and replaced with new ones. A tonne of work.
Honestly man, I wish I could remember lol. This was 5 years ago. I actually moved the video over from my other channel 2 years ago, which is why it says it's only 2 years old.
Are they rusted on? Or are you having trouble reaching them? Thinking back, I Believe I just used a few extensions on my ratchet in order to reach them.... Like 2 feet of extensions lol
@@edsautomotivehowto2706 i was having trouble reaching them but i ended unbolting the clutch hardline and a shield and i was able to get to them with 2 10” extensions and a long ass cheater pipe lol
Definitely gonna swing back around to actually watch this! EDIT: I'm back, repairing EV batteries to be able to last for years after the repair is not quite possible, module replacements would need to be tailored to identical capacity which is not as simple as remove/replace. I wish it was. Really cool man. Tks for tearing this apart and showing it!
You can create a balancing board and use a bench supply to bring the cells up to a 'safer' storage level , somewhere around 3.7-3.8V each by using big Zener ciodes in a line across that connector, then use a variable bench supply to set the total voltage and a nice, low amperage. That'll at least prevent cathode degredation.
Maybe that bad module had a clog in the coolant hose or port? I'm not sure what the maintenance schedule is on these cars, but maybe the coolant is supposed to be flushed after a certain amount of time? It looked kind of brown when you emptied that one module.
I wonder if the coolant is age or heat related to braking down the coolant I think tesla does not need to change the coolant in there cars for maintenance not like ice car?
You pull up on the front edge of the bottom seat first, so that it lifts and moves forward.... Then you fold down the back rest by pulling the tab on the top edge of the seat back.
I decided not to use the drl circuit, but instead found a 12+ key switched source and just tapped into it with the white wire. That way regardless of what was happening with the headlights, as long as the truck was on, the lights were on.
Question, We have it all wire up, trying to use a "Mini Add-A-Circuit holder" what fuse # did you plug into? Everyone we have tried is either hot all the time with the key off or it's got nothing. We have tried #50, #60 (empty) all hot. #10 SPO, rear wiper, nothing. What Are we doing wrong?
You already asked me the same question 5 months ago 🤔 When I tried to use the locker... it didn't work 😅 Basically one wheel would spin, and the other wouldn't move. So the differential wasn't locking. But I could hear a clicking noise indicating that it was attempting to lock, but just kept slipping. Thanks for the comment!
Thank You Ed, You are Awesome. I am Senior and watched few of your videos. You explained clearly and person at my age could follow and have peace of mind. Stay Blessed..
I have watched many videos for 3 months to get my homelink and Ryobi garage door opener to sync with no success until i watched yours, thank you sir, this worked!😅
