I did that kind of filtering with a barrel pump and those three filters although my filtering at first was 5micron 1 micron and 0.2micron but the last 0.2micron would quickly get clogged to I switched to 1 micron 0.5micron and 0.2micron. I ran it in a common rail diesel and of all the diesel engines I ran waste oil in them the two common rail diesel liked it the most by far. Easiest starting and most power. 2.0HDi 90HP and Ford Mondeo 2.2TDCi 155hp .
@@adrianmucci2831 the filter was outside the car. With bad pre filtering the 0.2 Micron filter was clogged after 100l. If you let it settle for some time and have good pre filtering then way longer. The 2.0HDi was killed in a crash. The Mondeo ran fine for 10.000km, then I made a mistake and gave the car to a friend who added too much gasoline to thin out the oil so the high pressure pump was then broken. Now the project is on pause.
I sorry for ear that. I hope you get more luck In the future. Thanks for the information. I glad to now is possible use this fuel filter at that for a least 10.000km whiout engine problems. @@no-damn-alias
Some say it is best to add gas or diesel to the oil first to thin it so its easier to filter. Then you can make black diesel. Some have tried that for a diesel heater and in their diesel engines obviously....
Wow, this could be really dangerous. When you consider that some knots reduce the strength 50%, that garbage would break with a 110 pound load! Thank you for this heads-up!
Hi Erik, Is the front fairing custom made by you, or did you buy it? The bike looks amazing, also i would appreciate if you can tell me the dimension of the rear tyre. Thank you! :)
Nice, but imho centrifugal oil cleaning in this case could be more efficient and cheaper in long term, because there is no need of periodic filters change.
@@davidlabossiere1905the cheapest centrifugal is about 2400 dollar. I think is no good idea. And you need about 3 o 4 for a speed production. Electric consumption etc.
Thank you for the video. All your breaks happened at the knots, so I agree that the tests were inaccurate. Recommend using the bowline knot or use a rope crimp.
Do you need to use warm water to break them in? Or can you also just go on a hike and wade through a ditch and let the boots dry as you walk? Might a bit more cold and squishy but is the result the same?
Can you come over an do mine? I’m struggling with the V-Shaped metallic sticks, that comes under the matress… the screws are soo tinyyy. How are they supposed to give stability to a mattress…
Accurately testing the breaking strength of rope and cord is difficult because if the load-bearing strain reaches the knots, it can reduce the carrying capacity of the cordage by 30-60%. This affects the weight-bearing properties of all knotted materials, including paracord. I can't really tell based on these videos, but it looks like the weight stress goes directly into the knotted area, meaning this test does not accurately measure its static load capacity.
I just bought a ‘supergrade’ pair. Initially, they are good boots, but bloody hell, they give me blisters on my heels and they are bloody heavy. All the best.👍🏾🇬🇧
I bought a pair of grade 1's in excellent condition and the same happened to me first time out, after setting off on a 2 hour hike, just over half an hour in I was getting a bit of discomfort at the back of both heels and at the end of it I had two quite large and very sore blisters. So now before I go on a hike I have to pad the back of my heels, and it does the trick, but they are a well made boot, and that's why I was reluctant to sell them on
