Does anyone else look at his numbers and think "It was 2.5 contact point the whole time checking until he hit 45 and then it was...wait for it...STILL 2.5 " and he says "Ya that's a pretty clear indication" 🤯😭
Number one YOU DO NOT SPIN the dial, 2nd you turn left to pick up all the wheels and go from there. If you are going to post post it right. I dont know where you got your info but it is wrong. the correct sequence is left 4, right 3, left 2 and right 1 or to open
I have been poring over your video series. As a result, and displaying far more confidence than I feel, I have volunteered to open an S&G safe at a relation's house in a few weeks. (Purchased house with inbuilt safe, no code!!!) You present it very well, so I am hopeful! The ability to visualise appears essential in this. I saw elsewhere, where a logarithmic scale was temporarily stuck above the 0-9 of the dial, with 10 increments. If anyone has used a vernier calliper, this may make sense. It seemed to be very effective in determining fractions of an increment when finding the contact points. If you Google "Safe combination lock manipulation: How to read a Vernier scale", it should bring up a video showing how it works. Or put same into the YT search bar.
Thats great but i've had to adapt here XD. The safe given to me was a 4083 (unknown maker), that was stored in my great grandma house (im brazillian), so it doesnt quite spin so fluidly XD neither does it responds very well to teeny tiny touches to the wheel. I've opened the key already, picked it easily. Now moved on to crack the code. The metal is very hard to read, it has a lot of "grips" and scratches withing the mechanism, i believe there is plenty of rust, loose components etc. Will update you all when i eventually beat that miserable shit.
I had a question I was hoping you could help me with. @ 4:16 you have reset and are about to check the Contact Points. You rotate the dial Left from 98 and read 96 3/8 for the Right Contact Point, BUT then you go Left again to read the Left Contact Point. In every other example previously when you are using 0 as the reference point you are ensuring to go Right and left of 0, never passing it, in this case you do pass 98, or am I not understanding something. I want to say think you for these amazing videos, they are very complex and I am taking a lot of notes as I have a hard time understanding this, I am hoping with more practice it will become more natural. Thank You
It’s a great video but I was not able to understand anything! I do have a question though. Can anyone break into someone’s house and feel these ‘contact points’ and eventually crack the safe? Is it common for burglars to know how to find the combination numbers through the way you are showing in this video?
There are very few scenarios in which a burglar will be trying to crack a safe with this method and it means there are many other shortcomings with your security as a whole. It's similar to lock picking in the sense that the vast majority of burglar's are quick fast and very destructive. The safe you have in your house will be more likely to be axed into or broken open with tools then manipulated
Any experience with a Intersec dial lock? Boss has an old safe that got closed by mistake. I have a concern because the handle left of dial just spins like its not connected.
Do you mean the lever he’s pushing on to retract the bolt? That’s a re-locker mechanism, on lesser grade locks it’s literally a spring made out of a paper clip. It’s supposed to always have pressure on it from the back of the lock pressing on the lever so it can allow the bolt to come back. This is a last resort mechanism for the lock should the criminal attempt to rip the dial off and punch through the lock. No back of the lock body means no pressure on the relocker, which means no retract for the criminal without tools, or worse, require finding a drill point to destroy the linkage in the door.
So I bought a house that had a big gardall safe. It has this same lock and is in the open position. What's the easiest way to figure out the combo? Tyia
Take off the back cover so you can see the wheels. Turn left until all are moving together and stop when the gate of the first wheel (deepest in the lock) is aligned under the fence. The number on the dial is the 1st number in the combo. Turn right 2 rotations and then you should see the 2nd wheel start to move and stop it when its gate is under the fence. That's the 2nd number. Then turn left 1 rotation and keep going until the gate of wheel 3 is aligned under the fence. That's the 3rd number. Then turn right to the contact area. If the nose doesn't drop in then you were off a bit. You can look through the gates and see which wheel was off and in which direction. Add or minus 1 from the number for that wheel and try again. It can be hard to see exactly when the gates are under the fence so you'll probably be wrong the first time.
Would you actually recommend it for someone who is a complete first time beginner? Because based on what you were saying it sounded like just graphing the contacts to find the gate won't suffice with this out of the box. I was very confused with the instructions, and I understand the basics of graphing after watching your videos.
I've had a family safe handed down to me for a number of years. Though I doubt there is anything of value within it, its a kind of family heirloom. It is an older Mosler Safe which "Mosler" has been out of business for some time. Would you know if Mosler is Group 2 combination lock? If so, then I assume your videos are most applicable in helping me to learn how to open this older safe. As such, I will study your videos with hope of one day actually opening it. Thank you so very much for sharing your expertise with us pilgrims.
Mosler is most likely group 2 but it's not guaranteed. You can tell by spinning the dial. If it has a lot of clicking and decent resistance to turning at certain points then it won't work.
Do you know if it's possible to do on an Amsec Floor safe? There is one at my work( school) but no one has opened it. School was built in the 1970s. I tried the sparrows safe cracking and I got it open. The problem I am finding is I can't feel the the lever hitting the back side. Any help.
I have an S&G 1300 Class B combination from a tellers sage. The lock is in my hand but I cannot figure the combination. It seems that I can see when the cam slot aligns for each wheel but the number changes and lock won't open next try. My son was messing with it and possibly took it aspart and switched wheel positions (denies this however). Would this matter?
Recently replaced the 27 year old Group 2 (6730) from my safe to a 6630. Ordered grease (A22), a dial, ring, change key, and a stand. Disassembled, cleaned, re-lubed, reused the spline key and adjusted the tension of the ol 6730 and used it to build a practice mule like yours but with the case intact. Watched your videos as they seem to be the best I have found. Especially part 7 advanced techniques. In my opinion that could be the only video needed. What it all comes down to is knowing the wheels and keeping track of when only the cam is turning. When only wheel three is turning and realizing wheel 2 can only turn if wheel 3 is turning it after taking up the slack. Helped visualization by taking the back cover off to check my guesses. Just worked the wheels until I knew them before looking for gates. Using your wheel isolation technique, my gates stood out about 1 to 1.25 tic marks width to the left of the usual Right indication. Mentioning it was a small 1/4 to 3/8ths of an increment taught me what a gate indication looked like and to use a light touch seeking the nose touch point. TIP while practicing on a mule with a known combination. No need to run the whole dial to learn. Just take 3 or 4 samples around the dial as you move toward the correct number. Much less time and if you don't see the gate indicate at the correct number you messed up the rotation count somewhere. For some extra fun, I found that dialing the combination R-L-R works if I account for the error in the flys. Thanks for the tip. Now for an observation on the 6630 which I had to try. The flys are so close that I can dial L-R-L or R-L-R to the numbers and the only difference going R-L-R was needing to reverse direction after the fence dropped. Also even knowing where the gates are on the dial, the indications are very small 2/16 - 3/16ths and variable also harder to feel the nose touch.
And how do you classify a crappy highschool / cheap padlock combination lock, which you pull on, and just spin thru all the numbers for a super-obvious lockpicking???
Good explanation. Maybe I missed it, but why would reputable safes have wheels that are not the same size such that the difference could actually be felt? It seems that a quality safe would guarantee that these wheels be machined to very close tolerances. Just a thought and an honest question.
Higher rated group locks have mechanism specifically built in to give you fake touch points, making manipulating a nightmare for them. Impossible? No, but the higher rated group locks are rated that high by Underwriter laboratories after going through a heat test, vibration test, and twenty hours of uninterrupted manipulation
