Safecracking for Everyone part 2 (Vulnerabilities) 

How did you get on with it? I’ve got exactly the same one to practice on 😬

@@chrispowellutube I got it open hahaha, it took me forever though. The hardest part (for me) was getting consist readings, I had to get into a habit of giving the dial a tug down before taking each reading, and then it was fine (still hard, but fine)

@@TheLemonyOne I look forward to the challenge, I have the lock but not the time right now, however it will by new to do list in the near future 👍

Do you mean the lever he’s pushing on to retract the bolt? That’s a re-locker mechanism, on lesser grade locks it’s literally a spring made out of a paper clip. It’s supposed to always have pressure on it from the back of the lock pressing on the lever so it can allow the bolt to come back. This is a last resort mechanism for the lock should the criminal attempt to rip the dial off and punch through the lock. No back of the lock body means no pressure on the relocker, which means no retract for the criminal without tools, or worse, require finding a drill point to destroy the linkage in the door.

You can find an s&g 6700 series on ebay from time to time. There's no functional difference between the 6730 and 6741 so either would work well.

@@lockmanipulator thank you, your videos are very motivating. I will get one.

When you try to turn the handle, does the dial lock up? If so, then no these videos will not help. But if the dial continues to turn smoothly even with pressure on the handle, then yes.

@@lockmanipulator Thanks the wheel turns smoothly. The dial says Meilink Patent July 2 1907 Oct 13 1908. I am just not feeling any stops. Maybe weak spring or wear. Any ideas? Dial is 20 to 100 with nothing between 100 and 20. Thanks Tim

@@timmoisiokingsville2095 I'm not familiar with that lock unfortunately. With the dial being from 20-100, and with you saying that there are no contact points, it might not be the same kind of lock that is in my videos.

@@lockmanipulator With a dial with no numbers 0 to 20, where do you start with no 0.

@@timmoisiokingsville2095 I wouldn't. It's not the same type of lock that these techniques work with. If anything, I would just try to use the dial to feel around and see if I can tell what going on inside the lock and try discover some weakness in it's design.

Higher rated group locks have mechanism specifically built in to give you fake touch points, making manipulating a nightmare for them. Impossible? No, but the higher rated group locks are rated that high by Underwriter laboratories after going through a heat test, vibration test, and twenty hours of uninterrupted manipulation

Yes, however if you are only moving one wheel at a time then usually it would be the third wheel not the first wheel that you check. But normally, most people rotate all three wheels at once and then just use high/low testing to determine which wheel has the found number.

@@lockmanipulator thank you very much . I only saw the second video and figured it out.

just answered my own question by rewatching part 1. doh! mine is a bit odd. contact points seem to be at 3 and 14. not sure if it was designed this way or if it has shifted due to abuse. it's a 40 year old safe, and has spent much of its life out in a warehouse where hundreds of employees work, and I imagine people have stopped and spun the dial (or worse) just for kicks.

The 3rd wheel would only get picked up after one full rotation. And it doesn't matter whether it's AWL or AWR. Hope that helps!

@@lockmanipulator that does help! I've had a lot of success tonight! I managed to confirm my first number beyond a shadow of a doubt. Then after running the High/Low Test, I was able to deduce that this number is on Wheel 2 (just like yours was in the video), because I got a wider gap in both the High and Low tests when I threw the 2nd position off by 10. I've started working through my second chart, using my newly discovered number in the middle spot. unfortunately I have to go to sleep for work in the morning, getting so excited I just want to stay up and keep going! 🙃 one thing has me scratching my head though: I've discovered the 2nd number in my combo, and I found it by spinning AWL in the first chart, like you did. however- everything I've found online about this 40 year old safe I have claims that the proper sequence is: 1st number left, 2nd number right, 3rd number left, then turn right until the lever falls. what do you make of this? if the first number I found is 34L and it is indeed the 2nd number in the combo, can I spin to 34 from the other direction (like the sequence calls for)? will it be shifted a few digits? or, perhaps I made a mistake somewhere? I shudder to think it lol I know I'm throwing a lot at you here. curious what your thoughts are. thanks again, and cheers!!

@@aaronschwingel3330 Because you found the 2nd wheel with AWL but it's normally dialed AWR, you'll have to either dial it with AWL or use rotational conversion. I talk about rotational conversion a bit in later videos I think or you can google (without quotes) "rotational conversion site:keypicking.com". I definitely talk about dialing with the "incorrect" rotation in later videos. Basically, you have to dial it with right rotation and pass it by 5-10 numbers, then go back around left and bring it to the correct number with left rotation.

@@lockmanipulator thanks for the quick feedback- you're a gem! for now I'll continue to focus on getting the other 2 numbers, and then circle back to this when I'm finally ready to open this badboy and see what works