Back in 1955 plastic was the new wonder material. It probably cost more than the old fashioned glass. Nice clocks, I wouldn't mind having a go at one myself.
Thanks, and like the guy said to Dustin Hoffman in The Graduate, "Plastics, there's a great future in plastics." But the product by Novus really works wonders at removing the scratches, almost as good as glass.
Another great, very informative video! Question: did you put the mainspring into your sonic cleaner too, or just the other parts? Also, please tell me what product you used to polish the brass top. Thank you.
Thanks for this detailed video! I have this exact model (mine is the same as the one you didn't fix), and mine seems to be in perfect working order. I didn't know anything about these clocks, and now I feel like an expert thanks to your video. The only thing I can't figure out, and this is probably so basic that you didn't feel the need to cover it, but how on earth do I wind it? When I first got it running, it ran for about an hour and then quit. Now it won't run for more than a few minutes. I don't have a key or a tool that fits through that little hole in the back. Can I use something else? How tight should it be wound? Thanks again!
You need what is called a long shaft Schatz key. There is a parts catalogue, Timesavers, and they list one. I measured the arbor on the back and it is close to 4mm, you need a #4 key. but I am not sure if Timesavers has that size. Another good company for parts is Horolovar, you can reach them at 740-277-7083, ask for John or Dave. Once you have the right key, wind the clock 5 or 6 turns. Clock experts will tell you that you can not overwind a clock, but once these old ones get some dirt and oil on them, they can jam, so I never wind them all the way. Once you wind it, see how long it runs, it should go more than just an hour. If not, you have to check that it is in beat. These mini clocks are particular difficult to get working. Good luck!
@@mherzog7 Good news, I am up and running and things are looking good. I was postponed for a while with some traveling, and I decided rather than ordering a key I took the clock to a clock shop to see if they could match the key perfectly. And they were able to come up with the perfect key! However, the lady there attempted to wind the clock and said it appeared to be either fully wound or possibly jammed, since she could only get it to turn a little tiny bit. This clock had been in my grandparent's collection, and as it turns out they had another nearly identical clock in storage. The second clock seemed newer (less tarnish, slightly different design) but the suspension spring was completely tangled and broken. It appeared the pendulum had maybe been wound up a few dozen times by someone who didn't know how to operate the clock and it went haywire (this may explain why it was dumped into storage and replaced with my original clock, so in other words the completely broken less tarnished clock may have been the earlier model). Thanks to your excellent video, I was able to remove the suspension spring from my semi-working tarnished first clock and put it into the older shiny clock from storage and... perfection! The master spring on the shiny clock winds nicely (I'm thinking maybe this clock was never actually used), it seems to be running perfectly (I made a tiny adjustment to the beat), and I have spent the last few days slowly dialing in the pendulum adjustment, it is now keeping nearly perfect time and keeps on running. Thank you again for your video and your advice! (Also, I was able to locate an excellent copy of the original clock manual. Cool stuff! www.abbeyclock.com/cal/schatza.html )
@@mherzog7 aa Ok thanks.What is real price of that clock,both? And what is dimension of halovar spring 0,32...0.23? And with what spring dimension clock work Ok.Thank you
Prices vary. You can look on eBay to get an idea of what some of the asking prices are. The .023 refers to the thickness of the spring. You need the Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide book to know which one goes with which clock.
