We shouldn't have to put up with worsening produced products, its a throw away society now and companies are cashing in on cutting corners in terms of quality & robustness. Many years ago I had a decent pair of Ross headphones (late 70's) and they lasted years of abuse. In the last few years I have had a few headphones where the ear surrounds have just fallen apart after a few months. This is just one example that comes to mind but I have experienced quite a few badly produced products these days, I keep hearing myself saying it's the 21st century and this is what we get now! Further I also realise I sound more like a grumpy old man having just turned 60!! It is our passage of right for we have successfully attained the age with experience rendered.
Thank you good sir. I did find this video very helpful. I remember as a kid learning to build engines with my dad and I found some of these old core plugs. I asked my dad what they were for as they wouldn't work on any of the Chevy engines I was working on. He told me they were used similar as the cup style freeze plugs on a Chevy, but were used on older style engines that had a lip to rest against. I never ran across one of those engines, but now that I watched your video, these are exactly as my dad described them. He sadly passed away in 2013, but now I know. Thanks
Thank you for sharing these beautiful cycle cars....Super cool video!! I have been assembling a machine shop to support my RU-vid channel that I will be starting with the build of a 1928 Morgan RIP GN special 3 wheeler with 4 wheels. I am using an experimental aircraft opposed twin supercharged engine. This will be mated to an MG 4 speed manual gearbox with a 2 piece hand cast aluminum adapter. This will be connected to an MG differential with beautiful wire wheels. The frame I stood over steel and will have aircraft cloth stretched over and sprayed with plasticizer. This will have a boat tail look and is essentially a 20's airplane without a propeller or wings. There is only one other in existence and Charlie Martin races it in the UK. The next project lined up is the building of a Brooklands style cycle car similar to the Pembleton. This will have a BMW R-100 engine in the front and four wheels with gorgeous leather interior and even space for luggage. I look forward to seeing everyone over at the channel when it gets warm out enough to be in the barn in Pennsylvania .....
Tie a string to the wiring before pulling back the cable. That same string, when you attach it to the new replacement, makes it easier to pull the wire through the holes.
What a very professional video, came across you by accident looking for something else. As a RU-vid channel classic car restorer it was an absolute pleasure watching you rebuild the pump well done.
Coming from you Digger, I take that as a real compliment. I have watched your channel with interest over the years working on the theory that you can always learn something. Let's face it, that's what makes life interesting. There are some twenty other videos on my channel, with a variety of subjects. Just type in my name Tony Hillyard in the search box at the top of the RU-vid page and you will go straight there. All the best, Tony
What an amazing video!! but....now I would be to scared to try this. I told my husband I thought I could do side curtains because I do sew. But the punches you have and the equipment you used I would not have. I am going to have to rethink this now. Yours looks absolutely wonderful!!!! Thank you, Cindy
I think you will find that most of the Ford cars around that period used the same or very similar style and size of axles. That made everything more economic during production. I used to have an E83W pick up, again all very similar parts.
Thank you so much for a perfect video of the process! I just rebuilt the pump from my 50 MG TD. The aluminum plate was stamped 50 19 I assume that means it's the original pump for the car. I bought a kit with all the bits... diaphragm, points, check valves and the fiber washers... it also included a new varistor to save the ponts. It also contained the 11 "washers" that go around the diaphragm. The new ones are brass, the original ones are aluminium. The kit included the "funnel" the check valve sits in, it was brass, the original was aluminum. I actually did not have to go back in and unscrew the diaphragm a hole or two. I have to look in my garage, I think I tried to rebuild a pump 20+ years ago and it didn't work. I had given up and bought a new one... I'll bet there is a spare in my garage with new points and diaphragm that just needs to be adjusted....
Hi, I sure hope you read this comment. I'm having a lot of trouble with the distributor apparently I really screwed up when I set my timing. I didn't follow anything that you put out there. Now I understand a whole lot more. But when I tryed to start the car, the motor spun. Then it dragged real hard. The motor spun and then dragged real hard. And then my electricity was gone. Actually, my electricity was gone everywhere horn ,lights etc. What do you think I did? And how do you think would be the type of thinking I would have to combat it. I sure would appreciate any help, Thanks
Good afternoon Jon, may I suggest following the instructions before you start always pays off.😁 If I were you I would go back to basics, as you seem to made life difficult for yourself. Check in the Les Andrews red book and retime your Model A engine from scratch, it will save you a great deal of time in the end. Otherwise you won't know where you are. Check your timing mark on the flywheel, find top dead centre on Number 1 cylinder then connect the timing light as I show on my video. It sounds from your description if she is making heavy going turning the engine over you have the timing too far advanced. But don't guess it, go back to basics and do it right. 👍👍
Thanks Tony. Helpful video even for this old time A owner. If I may make a suggestion, it would help if you showed the exact position of your alligator clamps on the points. Your hand blocks the view to that very important position. Ray Horton Portland, Oregon
No need to disconnect the battery. You are only going to be unplugging a couple of safe to access connections. It is a very straight forward change over of a switch. Good luck. Tony.
Bonjour Frédéric dj, Je suis heureux que vous ayez trouvé la vidéo utile. Comme vous le savez sûrement, il est possible d'avoir une traduction dans une autre langue dans les sous-titres sous chaque vidéo. En bas à droite de l'écran RU-vid, il y a un logo/carré blanc avec des lignes comme du texte. Une fois que vous avez choisi votre vidéo, cliquez sur ce logo/carré blanc et il indiquera "translate" pour la traduction. déroulez la liste des langues jusqu'à ce que vous trouviez français, cliquez dessus, et vous aurez des sous-titres français pour cette vidéo. C'est étrange qu'il n'y ait pas de vidéo en français pour ce problème sur la Polo. Je ne doute pas que les Polos en France, comme la voiture de ma femme, aient ce problème. Bonne chance, Tony Hillyard
@@Qspecialman Hi Tony, it was also an opportunity for my son and I to practice a little our English for him cause he is a student and for me cause I'm an old geezer who didn't spoke English since a while. Your explanations where crystal clear and your accent far better than the mancunian I worked with 10 years ago :) Cheer and toodle pip ! Fred
I was there and it was a great event. But the heroes were the owners of the Beast of Turin and another 20s land speed record car- who drove them both there on the public roads from Bristol! Really unbelievable, they should have made a documentary about just that.
Thanks Tony! I feel more at ease to tackle the job now, I think in the case of my 1953 Singer Roadster 4AD SM 1500 that I recently bought, whoever put the core plugs in did not spread them enough, I have however bought new core plugs , and hope like heck they are indeed the correct size!
Helio, first thing to check is how rigid the top radiator hose is. If it is very rigid I would suggest change it anyway. If it is rigid it will likely fail on you, on a dark night in the rain. I would cut it with a hacksaw halfway up, then check the thermostat and replace the top hose with a black silicone one and fitting new hose clips. If you try to retain an old rigid radiator hose and try and reuse it, you will likely end up breaking the metal pipe where it joins the radiator. It is like trying to reuse a gasket, false economy and you end up breaking something.
@@Qspecialman I wouldn't want to destroy the hose because I live in Brazil and we don't have parts for MGs here, so I would have to import it from the USA, which would take a long time. Or else I would have to adapt it from another car, which would not be very advisable. In any case, I am very grateful for your guidance and attention. Best regards.
It leaks through the upper brake light, as it has no seal, when you open the boot, it pours inside the car through the pipe for the wiring (the big concertinaed rubber pipe). Take off that black plastic inspection cover, and you will find water in there. Leave the inspection cover off for a quick temporary fix, but maybe there is drain holes that get blocked.
Yes this is where my wife's leak unfortunately I did the same as this guy it's a waste of time. It's tricky but you have to remove the high brake light lens and silicone around the back of that. It's just the original seal goes bad after a few years.
