How wide do the legs open at the opening end? I can't seem to find any specs on that - I'm trying to find a solution for lowering equipment on a mobile base but not sure if the mobile base will fit between the legs enough for the machine to be lowered onto it.
Have you thought of making your legs to be able to take a 2x4 insert to increase stability. You wouldnt have to provide the lumber but just a little planning to accommodate the complainers
Thanks for making this video. I already ordered my Mig 145 from Bestarc. I got into welding from highschool and wanted to practice it at home. I had no idea that the Fluxcore spool could unravel and be unusable, im glad I learnt this from your video, than learning the hard way. Thank you :)
Hope you see this. I'm out in the pacific north west. Every summer we get burn bans to prevent forest fires. But they allow gas burners while camping. Have you considered designing and testing a propane burner to run seasonally?
@wesleyshafer6310 No sorry I have not. If you're looking for input on a homemade burner , the only advice I can offer is look up something called a venturi burner.
Does anyone know if the little sleeve that goes over the gas jet opening is necessary? My kit didn’t come with one and I’m not able to find it online. Is it ok to use without?? Thanks!!
Do you mean the metal sleeve that screws over the brass nozzle? If yes, unfortunately it is 100% necessary. If you ordered it through Amazon, definitely report it.
Regarding your tailstock, when it's set up correctly, you use the lever at the rear to lock it in place. No need to use a wrench on the nut. That's what the lever is for.
i like your designs , being a aussie we like our back yard bbqs on larger plate / rack etc , soon i will be building one out of blocks , fire bricks and maybe some rocks ,thinking about also building a larger type rocket stove incorperated it it to use as a wok burner etc .. keep up the good work
@@steelforestweldingandforge.... trouble is cinderblocks dont last long due to cracking which is why building the fire pit part of the bbq will line it with fire bricks..... but fire bricks really dont lend them self into a rocket stove design ... so thinking a metal r/stove incorperated into the block bbq even if i have to line it in with f/bricks to protect the blocks
Regarding parting, at 11:55 the part is running true. At 12:13 the part is wobbling. I believe the lateral pressure from parting caused the part to move in the chuck meaning the chuck wasn't tight enough. I am not an expert though.
Awesome review! I'm definitely getting one. For those of us who work with metal, whether it's welding or shaping mild steel, we know how useful a finger sander can be.
Thanks for the video. This is my first angle grinder, so needed a bit of help to understand my new tool. The instructions weren’t hugely helpful. All the best.
not many people are going to buy your stoves , shipping steel across the USA is EXPENSIVE ....design a stove and sell the PLANS . if you GIVE AWAY your plans you will make more money with more suscribers .
I've sold dozens of these stoves literally from California to New York. I've learned how the postal companies charge for weight and parcel size and have maximised the stove size while keeping shipping costs very low. And no, I will not be giving my plans away. I've spent many hours designing and prototyping my stoves. Subscriptions won't pay for those sale losses for quite some time.
Awesome work... great video maybe shorten a few in the future too see difference in response? You inspired me to find a local class or ask my jewelry teacher to help me learn more so THANKS! I appreciated this video ✌️
can u please tell me how long the legs are from caster to caster? i only have 4 ft of flat surface, want to make sure this will fit before i purchase. thx
check for play in everything, gibs, head stock, back lash, its a small structure form factor machine so any play of any kind will show in finish. use auto feed as much as possible good luck
There is always some runout with 3 jaw chucks. After facing and turning it shouldn't wobble. I believe you can get it to run true with 4 jaw chucks but it takes effort and I've never done it.
Most of yoour design decisions look like are based on making it easier and cheaper to make, NOT based on making the stove work better. In my opinion you make a mediocre stove with good profitability
What designs exactly are making the stove less efficient? And on what evidence are you claiming my stoves are mediocre. Also, what are the standards would you use to judge a stove to be high quality?
@@steelforestweldingandforge hi. First, please let me apologise, I typed my comment in a hurry and when I read it back now it does sound very rude and that was not my intention I am just a very blunt person. I've worked as a professional designer for almost 3 decades now. I'll give you my thoughts on your stove and how it could be functionally improved. The top grille area that holds the skillet etc is terrible. Any large skillet or heavy cookpot would be very unstable because your 4 support posts are too narrow. There is not enough height from the tube top to the skillet bottom, restricting airflow which restricts clean burn and reduces the rocket effect. For a 4 inch square pipe that has 16 sq inches of airflow, so you need more than 16 sq inches of air allowed out the top under the skillet because air changing direction also effectively reduces airflow. I would recommend getting the skillet at least 3 inches above the pipe top, 4 inches may be better. Your 4 top posts have other problems. You cannot put a coffee mug on it. The top grille area should be able to hold any item, large or small like a big skillet, a small mug, a medium sized coffee pot. A potato wrapped in foil etc. You cant grill on your stove. The very best steak flavour comes from flame grilled cooking. So the steak should be supported on a wire grille and flames actually sear the bottom of the steak and the juices etc. With many stoves you can just sit a wire grille on top on the stove but not with yours because of those tiny top posts. A superior stove top would habve a permanent wire type grille, mounted 4 inches above the pipetop and the grill big enough for 2 steaks, so approx 10x10 inches. Grille made of maybe 3/16 stainless wire with 1 inch spacing between each grill wire. That would be far superior to your 4 small posts for grilling steaks, kebabs or sausages direct, AND provides excellent support for large skillets, cookpots, or even small items like a metsl coffee mug. Hence my "rude" comment, that stove top would be harder to make and more expensive than your current setup, less profitable BUT far superior in function. Now those legs... ouch. They are cheap and quick to make. From a user standpoint your legs are lighter for carrying and smallish for car transport. In my opinion those are small gains for the user but bad functionality as legs. They are narrow and rounded corners, giving very poor stability on grass. Considering a rocket stove might have a big cookpot with 8 pints of soup etc on it your legs are very poor. They should have large flat feet like 2 inch flat steel 1/8 thick and overall width about 3/4 the height of the stove, so width needs to be 15 inches minimum. I think your height above the ground is about right, gets the stove above the wet grass. But the feet need to be much wider and bigger surface area so not to sink into soft ground etc. The rear foot under the vert pipe needs to be mounted more rearward to give better stability with heavy cookpot. Having a good top grille, and good feet, would vastly improve the functionality of your stove. I would,also include some type of carry handle, not just for carrying but can be used to shake the stove to stoke it, or to reposition it as the wind direction changes. Another improvment. Finally, some small flat "anvil" type plate like a piece of 4x4 inch checker plate 1/4 thick, could be welded in the valley between the vert tube and the diagonal feed tube. That could be used with a little cleaver to split small wood pieces, taking advantage of the grip offered by the checker plate. It woukd also be a very useful hot plate at a lower temperature. For baked potatoes or a coffee mug etc. Anyway you can use my suggestions or discard them and argue. You can make a better stove at a higher construction cost, or keep making a mediocre stove at a lower construction cost. Doesnt matter to me either way. Cheers. 🙂
I appreciate the apology, the internet is a terrible way to communicate. I would like to apologize as well. I made some assumptions on what you were trying to say.
Some of your criticisms are fair. I have changed the design of my stoves slightly and made the surface area of the top much larger. For some of your other points, these stoves are designed to be small, portable, and shipped in the mail. They serve 1-2 ppl max. A grill would be nice yes, but you're looking at hours of additional fabrication time. Plus, additional maintenance on.the customers end. These stoves average on five hours of build time per stove. Profitability wise, they are in reality VERY low. Welders, on average, charge 100-150$ per hour fabrication time. But ppl won't buy a stove that is expensive, unfortunately. No matter how sturdy it's built.
As far as a carrying handle or a warming plate goes. Yes, they would be nice, but the additional build time just doesn't justify the additions, in my opinion. What I think you would be looking for would be a stove made with 4.5-5 inch tubing. Twice the size of mine. With a permanent grill top, carrying handle, large removable legs, and a warming plate. You are looking in the range of several hundreds of dollars, plus additional hundreds of dollars in shipping costs. Once packages are over 24 inches I believe they are considered freight. And the shipping costs begin to increase exponentially. Now, a major corporation with large machines would be able to provide something like that, but I'm just one man in a garage. It's just not a realistic option unfortunately. So far the only complaint I have heard from my customers what the stoves top area. Hence, the modification I mentioned earlier. And are happy with what they are receiving thankfully. Again I appreciate the apology, and I apologize again. I continue to welcome construction criticism.
Support brackets did not fit in the holes they were supposed to go in. They were too short so we just skipped that step. Wasted so much time on something so little.
The melting point of copper is VERY high, close to 2000 degrees F. It will take a lot of heat to do so. Did you add refractory material like I did? Or use it straight out of the box? You will also need to increase your propane output. And sometimes material will look like it hasn't melted when, in fact, it has. Sometimes, you need to stir it. I have not personally attempted to melt copper with it. I believe it would, though, if I attempted it.
i tried it right out of the box, it claims it can melt copper. ive tried a few times now havent been able to get it to melt it just turns bright red. im not sure how long i need to let it burn. i just dont think this furnace can get hot enough to melt copper
If they are claiming it can melt copper right out of the box, and it isn't capable. I would say that is the fault of the company. I'll get a hold of some.copper and give it a try. On another note, I would highly recommend adding refractory to your furnace, not just for increased efficiency. But for safety, the silica lining in the blanket lining the furnace becomes airborne when in use and over time will damage your lungs. Good luck to you.
I missed what you did with the round white piece. Is that to sit the crucible on when smelting? I just got this model. I appreciate this video, good stuff!
Thank you for watching and commenting to help the algorithm. Just wanted to add a small bit of advice. I would personally add the kindling first, then attempt to light it. :)
I’ve watched several other set up videos. Absolutely everyone says the oxygen tank vale has to be open all the way due to the valve design. ( yes the main valve, not pressure ). Also everything in your video is mirrored which will make it very difficult for a rookie to fully grasp your actions.
This was one of my first videos, and yes it's a bit rough. I've learned a lot since then. As far as the oxygen valve is concerned, that's directly from the tank supplier. Thank for watching.
Yes and no. I use the plasma cutter for making my rocket stoves, and unfortunately they haven't been selling well this year. So I can't really give an honest opinion on durability. Thanks for watching.
If using solely the tool, most likely no. However, since you will have the ring already rolled to a close dimension. All that you will need to do is bend your ring by hand. It should maintain a decent shape. At the same time, however, that is a very very small circle. So it probably won't be easy. Good luck, and thank you for watching.
wondering why once you got the lathe close to bench you didnt slide the leggs back so you didnt have to push on it because leggs hit the wall..I've done it a couple times with my cherry picker moving engines around to get on bench against wall..for good measure i put a 4 45lb weight plates thru a chain hanging from from piviot point on crane arm..probly dont need em for balance but i feel better doing it..
@e701914 oh shoot. Well in that case I would use similar instructions to the ones that were provided to me. The main reason we do this is to eliminate any moisture that may be inside the crucible so that it isn't shocked and explodes when exposed to the heat from the furnace.
