Hello I'm Alex!. Amateur film maker, classic car enthusiast and fan of all things vintage such as old electronics. Here you'll find reviews of classic cars, road tests, reports from car gatherings, tests of vintage household appliances, as well as tinkering in the garage on my vehicles. Welcome, to "All Things Alex"!.
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Great to see you back publishing again - Alex vs the exhaust, epic showdown special! Hope you get time to cut a little off the manifold section so everything fits a little better ... I know triumphs often have extra long exhaust pipes (shin burn specials), but it's not standard ... If you do get a thin cutting disc for a grinder, remember not to twist the grinder when cutting, they cut much quicker but are not designed for side loads Glad to see you back!
My brother John bought a brand new one of these when they first came out and i always took the mick out of him, cant remember much about it as i was a Ford man.
That looked a very frustrating job. Glad you managed to make it work. You should do a comparison video of this and the Allegro in terms of what they’re like to use on a daily basis 🙂
the exhaust downpipe needs to be shorter, then everything should fit better mate, as much as you are loathed to cut the downpipe. but that would be better then it's done proper, you will feel much better, and it isn't so bodged like the previous exhaust
Very good and I helped to replace the exhaust on my father’s Standard 10 many times. He would have loved a stainless steel one! I do think the front pipe should be shortened though.
A standard 10 last time I saw one of these was back in the 1960', It belonged to my metalwork teacher. It was more or less held together with tin plate. I did quite a lot of body work on it , as it was a right rot box. He liked it and back then he was lucky to be driving a car - not too many teachers could afford them. Have to admit I really enjoyed working on it - I certainly learnt a lot.
Hi not.watched the video will do tonight, not seen you in here much of late so hope your keeping well. New exhaust wow the amount of times I've fitted them. Always look.forward to your videos.
I'm assuming the best solution is to trim back the downpipe that leads to the muffler, so that all the clamps and the exhaust back will fit properly. The Standard sounds absolutely lovely! Been fighting you from the beginning, I know you will get this sorted! Great job Alex!
Or use a hacksaw with a new blade, I have done this recently, agree, that the downpipe needs to be cut short - the fabricator would have made sure there was plenty of pipe - easier to cut a bit off than to add a piece! I did wonder if the exhaust box would be better rotated the other way up to improve the alignment of the rear section - I have the same box fitted, to all things, a 1930 Standard Big Nine, it was the Club's answer to non-availability on a pre-war car and works fine!
Funny, I noticed that too! Something you might expect on an up-market luxury car back then, but not on a Standard 10, even a super de-luxe (or whatever Standard called it).
Is YOUR Allegro, by the way the car that's called GEORGE? I know somebody's is! Funnily enough, I saw a video of a classic car show, where a (non-Allegro), car was called GEORGE because of the numberplate!
You are so lucky to have a friendly mechanic. I'm in my 70's and I'm unable to find anyone who's willing and knowledgeable enough to help me do the tappets and bleed the brakes on my 1959 vauxhall cresta pa. I'm in Cambridgeshire (Huntingdon) if anyone can help.
Well, I can only say OUR blue (probably 1958!) STANDARD TEN never had a smart silvery stainless exhaust! If only it had stainless steel BODYWORK, so the sills hadn't rusted, we may have been able to keep it for longer! It's a miracle you've got such a SURVIVOR CAR
It was good to see my old mate Tony Key showing up there in his beautifully painted A40:pickup. I’m still to find a better man who knows his way around 60’s classics.
A beautiful array of lovely British classics! The SD1 at the Gay Classics Club stand looks showroom new, absolutely stunning! I get to see a Metropolitan from time to time as someone down the road owns one, a red and white Metropolitan convertible. ADO16 here in the US was the Austin America, only as a 2 door! Had to watch this before my morning coffee, off I go. Thank you very much Alex!
😅 👍 This is great stuff. It takes me back to my childhood. Since i am now old 🧓 enough to remember when many of these modern classic cars, were brand new !.......
you will have fun working and greasing that hope you don`t need the change clutch i used one in anger in late 60ts oh what fun ,will be easer to repair than a modern computer controlled car or even dare i say it an EV
The correct water level is not up to the filler cap, all what will happen is after about 15 minutes of driving the water will start spurting out the overflow pipe! The reason is that the top part of the radiator is the expansion tank.
Thank you. This makes perfect sense. The car wasnt down on power, or misfiring, but would loose coolant from the overflow once up to speed. There may still be a cooling issue, but this certainly makes sense. Will let you know!
Looks an excellent purchase, engine sounds excellent. The exhaust downpipe in the boot is a Triumph Herald 3 bolt type. If you want to use the car you should change the top hose for the correct bellows type hose, the non bellows hose will after a while cause the solder on the radiator to break. The original bellow type is designed to absorb the rocking motion of the engine.
You found a great original! There are great products out there to bring back old paint now days! It looks in good condition with some rejuvenation products!
Any experts here? I had a 10 with two small round lights on each side at the front. I cant for the life of me see any other car with indicator and side lights. They all have just one small round white light on either side. Was this an option or a modification someone made to mine. Always looked factory to me. Anyone know???
Any experts here? I had a 10 with two small round lights on each side at the front. I cant for the life of me see any other car with indicator and side lights. They all have just one small round white light on either side. Was this an option or a modification someone made to mine. Always looked factory to me. Anyone know???
Well done Alex, well done Stan for not overheating again! Think you've made Hubnut's day with your sneaky wiper reveal at the end! Great to see brakes still work after brake fluid escapes and shoes trying to follow! Whether 100% will feel like good stopping power compared with even a 90's car is unknown!
Well done! Nice tidy Standard, get some Dinitrol under it and keep it under cover and it should last well, be careful though fella as those old riveted brake shoes almost certainly contain asbestos.
Would this handle a motorway with six lanes in each direction and an 80MPH speed limit and just tons of very large lorries all around you? Yep that is why Americans drive those larger cars, SUV's and pickups. Can't make Europeans understand that. We just get bashed.
Hi Alex Is the ignition timing ok, advancing correctly? Easy for the advance weights or the distributor plates to become seized up over time. This can cause loss of power and possible overheating. A lean mixture will also do the same thing. If you can get to the speedo drive on the gearbox. Disconnect it and spin the cable with a drill. This will eliminate any issue with the gearbox drive. If the speedo still doesn’t work, your problem is with the cable or the speedo head. The speedo can be taken apart. Very often the issue is with a magnet that drives the needle. Over the years, it loses its magnetism and ceases to provide a strong enough magnetic field to 'pull' the needle. It is possible to adjust the magnet closer to the needle and restore the drive. It is fiddly, requires patience and trial and error to get the calibration correct. You can try restoring the magnet by rubbing a stronger magnet to the smaller one in a linear fashion, for say 15-20 seconds. This can help restore the magnetic field of the old magnet. Of course it can be none of the above, and could be some other mechanical issue. Just some thoughts. Good luck.
Please Please Please never go near an engine with long hair or things dangling from your clothes!! they get caught into moving engine parts and you will die when your head gets pulled into the engine!!!
Your now the third person to suggest this. Its easy to over look the obvious, and it makes perfect sense. I ordered one this morning. Will let you know :)
The heater does not affect the coolant flow in the block, the heater has a valve that can close off circulation, so coolant will still run around the block. I would be inclined to replace the brake hoses sooner rather than later and to fit new rubbers to the wheel cylinders, and to hone the bores and give the actual pistons a clean up too - the work is done by the rubbers and they need to have a smooth bore to move in, if there is crud, they won't move. If the pistons are covered in crud then they will not move freely in the bore - if you take them all apart you can fully assess the condition of each. I would take care wire-brushing & sanding brake shoes, unless you know as a matter of fact, the linings will probably contain asbestos and you don't want to be breathing any dust in! Good luck with the car, it looks lovely, very lucky to have one in that condition! Thanks for sharing!
