Where hear to help. I want to save you time and money on repairs, and also on the tools you will need to do them with. If you need help with any project let me know what you need in the comment section and I will try to help you out anyway I can.
You nailed it with your opening statement... yes I'm considering buying one therefore I'm watching this video LOL. Great video with demonstration of it's versatility and how I'd use it most. So now I need to determine if I want to save $100 by getting the 12 ton 🤔
i bought the 12 ton this morning, at least at checkout the harbor freight cashier told me i can swap up to the 20 ton for cheaper if i need to with the protection plan, i bought the plan it was $26 for 2 years, i think its well worth it
Thanks for the tutorial! I have a 1997 1500 and it shudders and vibrates when excelerating to quickly at highway speed, and it shudders real bad accelerating uphill. I hope replacing the injectors solves my issue.
It would be great if consumers were taught how to properly break-in an engine. That would all but negate these oil consumption issues. Sadly, even if taught how to break-in an engine, the amount of people that would follow that process is incredibly small. And then those same consumers would complain about oil consumption issues. It is utterly ridiculous, and until manufacturers & consumers actually get on the same page, this will continue for as long as internal combustion engines exist.
The build-up is from a combination of direct injection and oil consumption; all direct injection cars will do this to Some degree. However, VW/Audi has a recall of some of these cars, they would replace the pistons and rings. Pistons have to small an oil port on the bottom oil control ring, and the rings themselves were too loose in an effort to increase efficiency. IIRC, the piston set with rods is about $800 w/o recall. Not certain what cars still fit under the recall.
Yeah Audi states to give them your VIN number off the vehicle they will get back to you about if your vehicle is under the recall or not. Which at this time my vehicle is not. Usually what I do is just change out the piston rings for aftermarket ones with the waffle style scraper ring it does help control this condition resume updating the PVC system will help as well or catch can or vent to atmosphere for offering use 😉😉
Direct injection. Stupidest idea ever. I upgraded to the revised pistons on my 2013. I have about 50k on it now since i did it and it doesn’t burn any oil. I’m still half expecting it to start again at some point, i mean the pistons are an improved design but its still gdi and prone to carbon buildup so how much can you really do to prevent what seems to be the inevitable?
We have Hondas and Toyota’s both with over 150k miles and burn/consume zero oil between 6 month/5000 mile oil changes. I bet the insides are totally clean as well. Audi cars? I never even consider them. Ridiculous.
Yeah it's like you pay for a high quality car and get Chinese junk. Don't get me wrong a lot of the car is good just if they would fix this oil burning issue and a few other matters on the engine the car will be a great little sports sedan
New GMC's have a tsb stating that it is "within specification" for their engines to burn 1 imperial qt every 2k miles...... cust was complaining about 1 qt every 6k! They were lucky!
I think car manufacturers do that just to keep people from bringing their car in before the warranty expires. I like them saying transmission fluid is a lifetime fluid but if you look deeper service manuals say replace every 50,000 to 75,000 miles. Why don't they tell you this they want you to be back in later for a transmission
Ive heard the same consumption acceptability, 1 quart per 1000 miles. Heard it from mercedes shop foreman, as well as a few master bmw technicians. Crazy.
Yes this is definitely crazy from companies that are supposed to be high-end high quality names. And also names that say care about going green how is burning that much oil green,,? Toyota in Ford vehicles don't have anything close to this! When will scales like someone wanted you to have to bring your car in on a regular basis to a qualified technician to get this repaired done.
@@MrTheHillfolk yeah I definitely think Audi is covering something up because I have to say it appears like they knew something about this when they were selling it now!
This is common on direct injection engines. Many manufacturers went to direct injection, and made a big assumption the intake ports & valves would remain clean despite the lack of fuel making contact with those areas of the engine. What manufacturers are going to (such as Toyota, who has been leading the way), is a combination of port and direct fuel injection. You get the benefits of both with a setup like that, and clean intake ports.
How does oil or direct injection affect the inlet ports.The only thing going into the inlet ports is air not oil or fuel or combistion products. Exhaust ports I could understand it if direct injection isnt doing as advertised for clean combustion. Either way no one with any sense is going to shot blast the ports with the head on the engine. So effectively it needs a head off decoke as we called it every 20k miles. On an old school engine that would have been at least 60k miles.If not top end rebuild time new with new valves and seats and guides etc.All much cheaper and easier on a pushrod 2 valves per cylinder motor. The only way to run one of these laughable complicated modern engines and cars is with a main dealer warranty and service plan and for no longer than the shortest PCP/Lease purchase plan possible.These are not viable long term ownership products.
All right so this is how oil/carbon gets on the backside of the valve in a direct injection. Let me first thing that the older models didn't have this problem because they had injectors in the intake blasting fuel over the backside of the intake valves so basically if you would wash any oil or gunk stop back there off. Now since the new ones have the direct injection there's no fuel to wash the intake valves off. Now how does the oil get their here's how your PVC system which is that big black triangle box put it down on top of the valve cover/cam retainer which controls the pressure in the block and bleeds it off back into the intake and reborns it so with that air where is small particles of oil which one is the valve closes and everything comes to a stop play oil is slammed into the wall and sticks there, that's where the oil comes from is your PVC system. The company news is what I've been told play continue to sound vehicles anyway, turn on the new modern engines they've tried to fix this problem quietly by updating the PVC system I'm putting a fuel injector behind the throttle body in the intake on single injector that blasts fuel every little bit to wash any oil build up or carbon out into the cylinders. For this engine what I did to mostly stop close to that was I unplugged play PvC inlet pipe from the intake put a small screen filter on it after extending the tube out underneath the car so it would be in the airstream when I'm driving to help pull the air out of the tube and out from underneath the car, that was my cheap fix so this will be very unlikely to happen again and only 140,000 miles. Now oil still can get into the system through the turbo if you've got a leaking turbo seal, if that's the case look for oil in any of the intake tubes before the throttle body and especially in the intercooler, if it's bad enough leak your inner cooler may have a few inches of oil in it. Sorry for the long drug out message I thought you might want to know what causes it in a possible fix. Now for cleaning play do you want you to bring it in to have it sandblasted but you can always is simpler a chemical method at home you just have to take the intake off turn the engine over my hand so the cylinder you're working on owls are closed then you will basically fill them one by one full of parts cleaner or you can use paint thinner. When you're doing this you want to take the spark plugs out so it's easier to turn, also put the spark plugs out when you are completely done and intake back on and spark plugs out you want to rotate the engine over to make sure none of the cleaner has run down into the cylinders which could hydraulic the cylinder would you recycle it a little bit it should be ready for spark plugs back in and try cranking it. I hope this information was helpful.
@@stephengoad3091 Maybe diesel crankcase ventilation designs could provide a solution they would have had the situation of no fuel washing valves and inlet ports for decades ?. But they now seem to be running into EGR systems creating similar problems. I can remember brake vacuum servos and air filters and housings being soaked in oil from old crankcase ventilation systems. Thanks for clarifying the problem. It seems just another reason to trade these modern cars in ( much ) sooner rather than later. But that's obviously eventually going to have a bad knock on effect on residual values.Which will eventually wreck the figures of the trade in quick idea.
I drive a 2010 a5 2.0t. I go through 1l of oil roughly every 3500 miles. Regular oil changes and a new PCV really makes a difference! Audi literally killing themselves with the recommended 10k mile OCIs.
Yeah you have to wonder if some of this was planned for repeat customers. To solve some of this issue I unplugged the PVC pipe of my intake and ran it underneath the car and just put a screen filter on the end of it unplugged off the hole we're used to connect to the intake.
Yeah gdi sucks for this carbon issue ,but I thought I heard that mazda "fixed" it sonewhat by having an injector on the intake for cold starts. Washing some fuel down the intake to keep the carbon monster away. A little like 80s bosch cis injection.
@@stephengoad3091 Keep an eye on that if it gets cold there. Ive had a time or 2 where its gotten plugged up and froze,and puked all the oil out the front seal. GM 8.1s in generator applications were notorious for this ,until they wrapped the pcv system with an insulating blanket.
@@SPAZTICCYTOPLASM no oil burning… thankfully, though I have a rear main seal going out and a very very small & insignificant oil leak… either way, thanks! I won’t sweat it.
Technically yes it could, what's the time let me see this on other engines are valve stem seals are shot what you got a really bad PVC system dumping oil into your intake. But luckily most of the engines from back then had the injectors in the intake which get this problem to a minimum since fuel is actually a cleaner as well. On that engine I would use a little seafoam down the intake to clean the backside of the valves I got plenty of videos showing you how to use seafoam to clean out an engine.
I got the fake Makita for like $30. VERY weak (less power than my 1/4" Makita impact drivers). It was not worth shipping it back, so I use it for light work.
Mine weren’t even secured, for anyone wondering you put them in angled then push down firmly past the plastic tab. If you try to put them in flat or scoop them under the tab then they end up flat instead and hit each other.
I just purchased one for use in my home garage pressing in/out bearing and such. I love it already but you have shared some great ideas here. Many thanks!
I have code P2432, I followed your video replaced the whole second air injector but I am still showing check engine with the same code, any advice? Thanks!
Did you check the pressure sensor on a small tube and make sure it was? Also I have heard with high mileage engines the tube on the back of the engine sometimes gets blonde up and slows the flow there. I'm not sure how you really check that though. Could also be O2 or a stopped up catalytic converter. If you haven't changed out the sensor yet I would do that first it's only a few dollars sensor off eBay. Also they have a whole update kit with sensor in it like I talked about in the video. I hope something of this will put you in the right direction, also did you do a smoke test to make sure you didn't have any leaks?
What you don't trust anybody about? It's got that eBay money back guarantee. It is not the item you purchased there will give you your money back or get you a refund. I've only been don in 2to3 time's over several years.
No it's not exclusive most vehicles have either anxiety air pump are the engine will run faster for about a minute when you first crank it on the only on cold starts. All this to for is to heat up the Cadillac converter fast. You really have to look into your in person and on the internet do you find out if I wish system.
Yes that is correct. There shouldn't be any squealing or chirping from the motor and there should be a very high RPM sound with a lot of air from the output side.
Weather for the oil for the chamber and we use chain bar oil or you could use good used motor oil just trying to get some that's not extremely dirty but I do recommend you use chainsaw bar oil. So for your gas you will mix two-cycle oil this chainsaw will come with a mixer bottle or you can look it up usually it's one small bottle two-cycle oil to 1 gallon of gas, recommend but not necessary, you use premium gasoline.
Okay the wiring should be black is power the white is ground, red is your brake, and blue goes trailer brake. Hope this helped. I believe I was going to put it in but when I washed explaining it the mic was so bad I couldn't use that section.
@@stephengoad3091 thank you, I had that code ,plus I looked it up, plus it came in the box, it's the Primus controller, what I didn't have was the tell tell to the black with red strip, white with blue strip, red with Orange strip, blue with yellow strip that was already run to the plug and play under the dash I cut off to save a few bucks to wire the controller straight up. I hooked the mostly white up to the all white from the controller, and the black with small red strip up to the red, well it kinda worked, I went and looked at the plug and play from the store and I seen that I had those two reversed, I changed them and now I have trailer brakes working correctly, who would have thought the black with tiny red strip goes to the white with tiny red stripe. but what I just told you is no where to be found on google or RU-vid, probably because of the Gillian different brake color wires on so many different vehicles under each rig, anyway thank you
Thanks for the video as a re tutorial. One thing I saw was when placing the rotors back on, you need to initially torque the washer, nut, rotor 30 to 40 ft lbs to set the rotor to the hub then, back the nut off and hand tight so the nut and serrated washer line up with the hole
