Howdy! Welcome to my channel. I try to provide information, and a hands on experience while working on mechanical stuff. As well as other cool ( I think) stuff. Sometimes learning as I go. Repairs, restorations, welding, teaching and mentoring or just generally putting things back into service. All with as much humor as I can muster. And as many trains, school busses, cement trucks, viscous dogs, quarreling neighbors and other wacky background noise especially ordered for your listing pleasure. We look at cars, motorcycles, old tractors, snowmobiles, guitars, guns and other fun stuff. So please subscribe and stay tuned.
Thank you, that did it , on a very old chevvy astro. Compressor started after refilling. Not yet super cold, but I think the compressor is kind of old too :D
Way too much is depending on oil pressure to simply "HOPE" that spring tension is good enough. Some say, "You don't want it to be too much, you don't want it to be too little." What does this mean when you are trying to control oil pressure at RPM and idle? There is a spring tension specification in the Volkswagen manual under the Engine section, page 35 for Type 1 and page 30 for Type 2. Installing each of these springs should never be guess work. There is a lot of spring tension variation even among new springs. Spring tension is measured when the spring is compressed to the specified loaded length. To do this will require a scale on the drill press table. Set the depth control on the drill press to the specified spring loaded length above the scale surface. Compress the spring to the loaded length then observe and record the scale force. Install springs to your liking then observe their performance. Swap them out as necessary to adjust for desired performance. Read my technical paper titled "Measuring Oil Pressure & Oil Cooler Bypass Spring Tension" on the subject published on The Samba under Technical, Miscellaneous.
just worked on my 6v today and tried to run it as a motor but didn't move. Then hooked up my voltmeter and spin it with my drill motor and got 7.5 volts. My drill runs at 2500 rpm so that's not a bad reading so it must be good. just odd that it won't run as a motor? must be due to it's an old 6v. I plan on converting it to 12v but for now just want to get it running then play with that.
Working on mine right now although mine is an older generator with just two wires hanging out not the two post on top. I would like to test bench it with a 12v battery just briefly to see if it spins or not. the 2 wires are not marked but one wire is smaller than the other. I believe the small one is for the warning light and the other is the positive. Both connect to the aftermarket regulator. left post shows FLD and the Rh post shows 61 the back post shows B+ which I know the battery power goes to if it was in a car and to the starter solenoid. I have it all tore down right now to clean it but when I get it back together, I'd like to test it for spin and how many volts it's putting out with the regulator hooked up? any help would be appreciated. watching video after video but all I have seen so far is ones with two post which should be DF and D+
I’ve never had a 6 volt car. I wouldn’t know. I think there is information about 6volt generators in the book, but I’ve never read it. So….i don’t know.
after I got it back together tested it with a 6v charger to see if it would spin but nothing. I hooked it up to spin it with my drill and got over 6 volts which the book states and that's good at 1500 RPM. So looks like it should be good. will test it again when I get it running with a battery and test it to see if it's charging?
@@TimsWorkshopTJY A 6 volt battery charger isn't a battery. It's highly possible that the gen. needs more amps, like from an actual battery to make it spin. I've also saw where those "smart" chargers don't produce unless the feel the load of a battery. Sounds good....lemme know if it works.
Thanks for responding back, kinda what I thought on the charger but I don't currently have a good 6v battery and don't want to use a 12v on a 6v system. I think I will get a good 6v battery just for testing these old motors
You should take the fender beading and paint it the same as the body color with a paint compatible with plastic. They came like that stock. I'd paint it all a cream color with red seats, white headliner, Salt and pepper carpeting, and caramel door panels.
I like the idea, but your hole isn't offset, it's at almost a 5 degree angle crooked. Also why the hell would you grind the head off the a steel bolt while it's flush in a magnesium case? Even if you don't turn your case into a giant road flare, you're risking nicking it with the hand held grinder, which you did. Just mark ithe bolt with some masking tape or paint and cut it in a vice far away from the extremely soft and flammable magnesium case. Or hold it with your bare fingers when cutting with the current level of safety concern.
After cutting the head off, how are you going to screw the part into the block with the tape and sealant on it? If you use the stud, and I guess you could if you don't tap the whole piece. I guess it's possible to add two nuts to the stud, thread it into the piece. Tighten them and drive it in that way. Also, I've tried to light one of those cases on fire, and it's not easy. You have to have a roaring wood fire. Maybe a few small fragments might catch fire. But that whole chunk. Nope. you do know you can WELD magnesium...right? And I'm not a machinist, critique me on my glass installation, because it's what I do professionally. Proof being in the pudding. Leon was ecstatic that I was able to save his case. The rest of the engine however ....... I wish he would have bought some more pieces, to make the engine correct. All in all, I glad you liked the video, stop by any time and remember.....comment as you see fit.
@@OkFixer its probably being overly cautious, but the risk isn't setting the case on fire with a spark, its setting the magnesium trimmings and dust from the grinder on fire with sparks from the steel. The dust then ignites and burns at 5600degrees F which is 3 times hotter than a bonfire and will set your case on fire which can not be put out easily. Why risk it, especially when you were able to just figure out on your own how to do it in a safer manner when thinking it out? Also, you're fixing the case saver because magnesium cases are soft and it stripped out. However you're "fix" has a 5 degree angle in it now, when torqued down is going to put some angular stress on the case where that stud is and/or lead to issues with keeping the heads tight as heat and miles are put on the motor. Its a 5cent bolt you drilled. Just take the time to drill another one or two or however many to get it right. Cases are expensive, low grade bolts from hardware store are cheap.
It is already starting to take shape and look better. I am catching up and binge watching all your new videos since your return. I watched all of your original old videos on the blue beetle etc prior to you taking a break. I really enjoy watching them, glad that you are back making some more.
Its probably the bearings. The one closest to the fan is relatively easy to pull off, the one in front, you may have to cut off. I had a hard time with that one. But its doable.
Probably not a good idea to put grease on the oil-lite bushing in the end of the starter, oil, yes but the grease will plug up the oil absorbing qualities of the bushing and make it wear out much faster, Just use oil. Type 3 transaxles are the same as Type 1's, it's the semiautomatic transaxle beetle starters that can be tested out of the car.
I fix everything I can like this to save money. Electric window car or truck motors quit working and can be reworked as well but make sure to put silicone grease on the electrical plug connectors which can also stop these from working.
Use some sta-bil fuel stabilizer along with some sea foam per directions and you'll be surprised at how well it runs. Not to mention unclogging your fuel system. Change the fuel filter also. Otherwise, good luck on the bug's.
The second beam looks like it still has the original upper ball joints. The original ball joints were setup to use grease fittings. Just remove the plastic caps and add metric fittings.
You should leave the plastic caps in the ball joints unless you want to add a little grease. Put the zerks in, grease, then reinstall the plastic caps. Just be careful not to blow the boot off.
You were lucky to find a normal beam and not one of those narrowed numbers. Many cars look so stupid with the front wheels so tucked in; they look like tricycles. An idea: put some Zerk fittings on the shock towers and pump them full of grease to prevent corrosion.
It more than likely because of people putting those wacky narrowed beams on their cars, that I was able to find these two rot free examples. That’s a good idea about full of grease. But, once I put it together….we don’t have that much salt down here. So I’m sure it will be fine. I’m really happy about the price. 😀
Nice job Dan, you should put the nut on the end of the belt pulley with the tools that you carry in your tool roll. If the belt should break and your on the road, you'll be able to change it.
