hey sam what brand is your shaper? I for sure need to upgrade my current setup. your work looks great , I like a little less gloss .I use a medium dull rub finish , conversion varnish from Sherwin williams although I'm checking into finish works products as they seam to be more geared to supply the cabinet and furniture business. could you help me out?
Why does minimax (FS41) ship with such a crappy plastic guard? For this reason alone I just ordered the euro guard, although euro does seem like the safer option.
Anyone here have a Robland E3200? When i purchased mine 18 yrs ago it was commissioned by an engineer working for the saw sales company . It didn't cut 100% square then . It was always slightly out of square. After many attempts in fine tuning it is still not cutting square . Its driving me nuts. He also set the parallel fence so that the fence is not 100% parallel with the saw blade ie if you put the fence against the blade there's a tiny fraction of a gap at the back of the blade near the riving knife. Is this normal?
Hi Sam. Ha! I have one of those Jointech Clinchers sitting in my basement, I’m going to mount it on my slider too!! That’s pretty sweet. Can you tell me about the extrusion you attached to it?
Now I know. American guard all the way. Euro guard will just slow productivity big time. When I did this work, sometimes you had surface long, thick heavy wood. It was pointless to make full passes when starting, so I would work one end at a time until you could remove materiel in an entire pass. You just can't do that with a euro guard because you need to teeter slide the board on the leading or end edge of the machine.
Well and good if we all had his equipment we could build it too,please someone show us amateurs with limited equipment and knowledge how to get it done.
I don't know where this "European" guard system is coming from since there are many countries with there own laws and restrictions in Europe. I'm Dutch and never worked with either cumbersome systems you are referring to in your video. Watch this video, at 3:40 min he is showing how he is using it. This type of guard can move unlimited in vertical and horizontal direction. The way I've been thought is you push the wood over the blades until your fingertips of your right hand touches the guard. You lift only your fingertips over the guard while keep on pushing the wood with the palm of your hand. When your palm reached the guard, your fingertips are already passed the guard so you can transfer the pressure and keep full control during the full pass. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EQeIDiya5gY.html
I'm not sure. It is not something I experimented with. I should think it wouldn't take you long to figure out by switching from one to the other during cut sessions.
I have been enjoying your videos , just set up my new SCM Minimax si 315es, in doing so I would like to up grade my leveling feet. As a master at SCM products do you have any suggestions. I will keep watching for your great knowledge of the trade.
Hey RJ. Thanks for the kind words. Your feet should be threaded for M12 studs, so any leveling system or caster can be added if it is a 12mm stud rather than a plate.
Sam. Great video. I have a new si400 still in the crate while I complete my shop. I like the incremental positioner. Did you build it or buy ipositioned. Thanks.
It was made by Jointech, now out of business, but the same basic technology as Incra, and you should be able to do something similar with one of their positioners. You can get that same little support table for your slider by calling into the parts department at SCM NA.
Can you explain the relationship between the Cross cut fence and the parallel fence on this style of saw? It’s something I’ve struggled with on mine since I got it.
The Crazy Horse Dolly is now available here: Michael Samarza at: michael@westoakstudios.com. I got the contact info for this dolly here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8Gee2Ryk1P4.html. The version from West Oak Studios is made of wood but appears to function the same. I ordered one and hope to get it sometime next week.
Hi, the interesting part is, that the American version is not allowed to use in Germany, by law. The guard opens to early, if you have a wide piece of wood. It’s the same for closing, when you have passed the knife shaft. The standard in Germany for professionals is called Suvamatic. It’s expensive, but the most effective guard system, from my point of view.
Yes the Suvamatic is very nice, and crazy expensive. The one I tried seemed to have limited range for the side spring, and needed to be operated more like the standard Euroguard, albeit with the up/down spring action, though it was still not convenient to use a push block like I prefer to use. And, again, had a height limit, thus times when the guard would be useless. Perhaps the perfect guard will be a robot operating the jointer!
Hey Sam! You helped me set up my SCM Minimax slider via email some time back... Thank you! Now I'm in the market for a tersa cutterhead planer / jointer combo... But as a hobbyist, my budget is limited. Is the fs30g a good enough machine for a hobbyist working out if their garage... Or should I take the plunge with the little brother of the machine on the video, the fs30c?
Glad to help. The FS 30G is not brought into the USA readily. You could probably special order one for a little less than the FS 30C, but I'm not sure it would be worth the big lead time wait.
@@SamBlasco Thank you so much for your prompt response, and sorry for my delayed response! RU-vid did not notify me. I'm actually not in the US, but your resources and videos have been my primary go-to, and a great help and source of inspiration... and your knowledge and commitment is hard to find over here in Europe, despite being the home of SCM. I've actually been asking around our retailers and via SCM channels, and not gotten a great answer... Except that it's a lighter duty machine. I'll see if I can save up for the FS30 C. Thanks yet again Sam.
95% of the time I like to thrust cut (piece between me and the fence) because I am the clamp, keeping the piece firmly held to the fence. Push cutting (the fence between me and the fence) can be best on certain situations, and sometimes when working with narrower pieces.
Hi Sam, informative video... I have a fs30, sold to me by Dain a number of years ago. I see there are some nice re-finements .. does SCM still make a mortiser for an old FS30?
This is one of my favorite tools. I love my slider but If I ever downsize I will still keep this one. Tersa is awesome. My dad has the helical and think Tersa is easier, faster and gives a better cut. Might be some unique figure grain helical marginally better but not enough for me.
Nice video, and I was wondering if you were going to demonstrate the Tersa knife installation. I have the FS 30, and the ease of changing knives allows me to use the HSS knives as a bulk removal set and the M+ knives as a finishing set. That smudge on the lens near the center is distracting! 🙂
Thanks Mike. It is too bad we couldn't deal with that smudge in the lens cover. Unfortunately it is not easy to re-film, since I flew to the Atlanta showroom while we had the machine, so it would be impractical to do it again. It won't be there on future videos.
It is pretty arbitrary for me, Manny, but about 4" from the corner point should be sufficient to make installation easier and still give you room for the Lazy Susan.
Many years ago I was asked to participate in a round table about whether SawStop tech should be mandatory in all table saws. I don't remember the exact stats now, but injury from kick back and throw back was more frequent and often more serious than finger cutting. I posited that SawStop does a great job with the blood letting, but really does nothing to address the other issues. Therefore, I said if the SawStop tech is made mandatory then a sliding table saw should be mandatory too.
@@SamBlasco As a disabled veteran who does at times have some issues with my disability. I went with the Sawstop for that near elimination of the blood letting. I have had 3 kick back related incidents 1 on the Sawstop. With the Sawstop sliding table and not removing material as it built up all user created. 1 with my 12in compound miter saw cutting a old warped 20 ft x 8 inch fascia board to fit into the trash can in a rush. Again operator error. The board bound in the blade pulling the entire board forward with my hand that was holding the board. No injury. 1 with my never used ShopFox w1812 I missed a step and did not set the feed roller speed. And the board stopped feeding. it slipped off the in feed roller and when I lifted the in feed side back up onto the roller the cutters grabbed the board. And ejected it violently out the indeed side. Damaging the board and the wall. Lack of knowledge about the tool on my part as there is not a lot of information out there on moulders. I do wish that at the time of purchase that there was more information available for the sliding table saws and that I would have waited for Covid lock down to pass before ordering the Sawstop. SawStop is a great saw. Sucks at sheet materials and that is what I find myself doing more of lately.
No. Maybe once the wheel was off it might be marginally easier to fish the bolts through, but then you would still need to route the belts into pulley grooves after re-installing the wheel. And getting belts in place is the most difficult and time consuming aspect of this whole operation, but you can't tell it from this video because the solid wheel blocks the view of me installing the drive belts. So really, taking the lower wheel off would have only added time. Plus, it is like 75 lbs, something like that, solid cast iron!
For most things yes. I am the clamp holding things against the fences or stops, especially if the boards are relatively flat and square. I will use clamps for some things, rough boards with wane or twists, or both, etc.
Hey there, would you be kind to offer some advice, any is very useful: I have a Robland Z400 M panel saw sliding machine with 2 blades. Problem is that i can't align them perfectly... The pre cutter is always a bit off to the right or to the left and that is my problem. How can I allign those 2 blades perfectly?
I am not very familiar with that machine. On my SCM machine there is a knob below the table to move it right and left. Some saws come with a simple scorer installed and use a spacer on the arbor. If you are using a split scorer or dial scorer you may need to remove that spacer, or if you are using single blade scorer you may need to add a spacer on the arbor first to move the blade a little to the left.
