Here were the torque specs I used from chatgpt. Here are some torque specifications for reassembling the fuel injector components in your 2017 Honda CRV: 1. **Fuel Injector Hold-Down Bolts**: 16 lb-ft (22 N·m) 2. **Fuel Rail Bolts**: 16 lb-ft (22 N·m) 3. **Intake Manifold Bolts**: 16 lb-ft (22 N·m) 4. **Throttle Body Bolts**: 8.7 lb-ft (12 N·m) Make sure to follow the specific sequence and guidelines in your service manual for proper reassembly. If you need more detailed specs or additional torque settings for other components, please let me know!
Thanks for the video and your helpful tips. I had the same problem in my 2017 crv with the 1.5 liter. 82k miles and I just started getting the flashing lights etc.. the obd2 reader code pointed me to the injectors. I ended up going with the aftermarket *Beck Arnley part number 159-1123* from rock auto. Worked perfectly. Everything went really smoothly. The one bolt that holds that smaller fuel line on is a bit of a pain but with patience it came out and I was able to get the job done. Started at 8 am and was done right around 12:15 so it took me a bit over 4 hours. Could be quicker but took my time as it was the first one I've ever done and I didn't want to forget anything putting it back together. My local Stealership wanted $1,900 in labor and $750 in parts. So I saved about $2,300 doing it myself. Running great with no lights, idling better as well. The amount of carbon build up on one of the old injectors was really bad and I can see why it set a lean code! There was maybe one of the 6 pinholes that wasn't completely covered. Thanks again for your well thought out video sir !!
My Buddy and best advisor I had said the only person that should be cleaner that the cook should be working on my auto I'm believeing your instructions are the best...... BIG Thanks Thanks
@@Eddiemoney193 I didn’t do a follow up video; I guess I could but honestly this is one of my least viewed videos so it might not be worth it. I did use a clear coat spray - it was part of the turtle wax restore kit.
Thanks for your Honda CRV videos man! they are very informational and very detailed. Don't throw away the pump just keep it for the next time you do the same service, just keep it in the same packages. when are you bleeding the brakes and the coolant change? hope you do those videos too, that would help a lot. Thanks again!
@@Eddiemoney193 Thanks for the good feedback. I will need to do the coolant next year and I don’t know when I will do the brakes; we’ll see. But when I do them, I’ll make a video.
The only thing that would bother me is having the 1.5 liter turbocharged engine. That engine has direct injection, which has had oil dilution problems, and turbos are inherently more prone to breakdown over time due to high heat and needing replacement. Otherwise, good job.
Thanks for the feedback. My best friend told me the same thing. Do you think it bothers most people? I was thinking that people would just skip through it if they didn't want to watch it. Maybe it's just best to cut it down to like 10-15 seconds. Right now it is 47 seconds. I would appreciate your feedback if you don't mind.
Excellent video, good job. You explained everything clearly and quantity of oil for the two types of wheel drive. Thanks for showing the overflow plug. Much better than other videos.
I was trying to find a video on how to replace the air shutter grille (the part in front of the ac condenser) and have not had much luck. But, you video shows most of what needs to be done for that, so thank you!
Awesome video !!! Thank you for the great tips on how to replace the AC condenser. What tools and equipment you had used at home to vacuum out the AC system? Do you have a video on that?
Honestly I didn’t vacuum out the system to negative pressure. I know you’re supposed to but I didn’t because I didn’t want to buy the equipment. I already have the vacuum and hoses for R134, but this car uses YF1234 which uses a different sized connector. I just filled the system with a bottle (made sure to use the proper amount; you can find this information on a sticker in the engine compartment, usually at the front by the radiator) and it has worked really well.
I use a flat pan to catch any over fills from the fluid that the oil pan does not catch. I use a piece of wood underneath the jack stands to help protect the garage floor. I also use a pliers to remove the transmission fill plug and to replace it. My hands are big and have difficulty reaching it.
la honda no fabrica aceite ahi que ver cual es su distribuidor algunas fábrica de hacer lubricantes es que le distribuye a honda ho mejor dicho usan el marquetink con el nombre de honda en los embaces de aceite
Where did you get your aftermarket injectors - what was the price compared to OEM from Honda - Honda says to replace the fuel rail at the same time - I don't think you replaced yours?? Based upon how many 2017+ Honda CR-V's are out there and Honda not taking ownership of this issue, as evidenced by many, many, write-ups and stories on the web/CR-V Forums, this will be another popular video in years to come as people do this job on their own vs. forking over $1,500+ to some dealership to do it...again, based upon bad injectors installed by Honda to begin with!
I bought them on Amazon. The brand was not one I had ever heard of, but it had good reviews so I went for it. The price was about the same as OEM, maybe a little less. So far they have worked perfectly (knock on wood). I will definitely do an update video if they give out. You are right; I did not do the fuel rail. It looked really good, so I wasn’t worried about it. I’ll do a video if something goes wrong with the rail.
wouldnt have used engine oil for the seals. buy the correct refrigerant compatible oil. also a good idea to check for leaks before reassembling the front of the vehicle.
Is this the ZF9 gearbox? I recently purchased a 2015 CRV AWD with ZF9 auto gearbox and looking through the paperwork (it has full service history, at Honda until 2022) it never had a transmission or diff fluid change and I want to do it myself. Looks like an easy job
Go for it-my niece bought a 2012 crv about 4yrs ago and I service it for her. I drain and refill the tranny fluid every 20-25 k and the diff around 30 k-when you do the diff make sure you can get the fill screw broke loose first before you drain it--Good Luck...
It depends on the engine you have. Check your owners manual under the Specifications section. It will tell you. Mine is the 1.9L turbo, so it is less than the 2.4L engine.
Hi, Do you have to make the car engine hot(operating temperature) before refilling the last quart of oil? Or transmission can be cold and no need to run the engine for 20 mins and make everything hot and then put last quart of oil and check the oil coming out of check bolt?
To be honest, I don't know. I did it this way because this is the way I've seen it done. My understanding is that the fill bolt is at the correct level for a cold fill because that makes it faster for the dealership when they service your vehicle. Let me know if you find information that indicates the last quart should be added only after warming up the transmission - it would be good to have clarification on that. I can say that the car has been running very well since I did the job, and I haven't had any lights come on indicating there is a problem.
I don’t change the filter every time. I change it every other time. It doesn’t get nearly as dirty because there is no air intake that mixes with the oil in the transmission like there is for oil in the engine. Since I have a magnet on my transmission oil pan, I don’t worry too much about changing the filter every time. What are your thoughts? Do you change it every time?
Thank you, can you also explain why the videos on show doing a drain. I am trying to understand why you would not do a flush or do a drain, and maybe go another 1-2 thousand miles and do another drain once or twice more to get more old oil out?@@Iamthebestican
@@KrazyKajun602 Flushing the CVT in the 2017 and up CRV is not needed or required since It does not hold on to most of the old fluid in the torque converter like a regular transmission when you pull the drain bolt All the fluid except maybe a vary small amount will be gone. If any shop recommends a flush they are just trying to scam you. And make sure you service it every 30000 miles if you want to get as much out of the CVT as you can.
When you first do a trans oil drain come back around 200 miles and do it again and 200 more miles one more time. This way is supposed to renew the oil to around 75-80%I have heard to never do a trans flush once you get 30k miles or more on it-all you will get is heartache....@@KrazyKajun602
Great job. One of other videos I watched stated that removing the check bolt would result in the new fluid being added find its way to the hole while adding. You proved that wrong at least on your year model. Fixing to do a drain and fill @ 40K on a 22 model. Honda greatly simplied the fill process over Toyota's where temperature has to be within a certain range to check the correct fill level. Again thanks for the video. I plan to take out and check level before starting the drain and reinserting loose while I fill as I have a FWD and don't care to waste the fraction of the 4th quart. What's your opinion on the number of miles between changes? For my style of driving I was planning on every 40K. I wasn't aware the the computer stored the transmission oil life. Is it based on miles, hours, time or what as could it be used to determine the interval?
UPDATE: Changed fluid last night and with a warm transmission I removed the check bolt with the vehicle level, nothing came out the check hole. Pulled the drain and caught all of the fluid and it was exactly 4 quarts (1 gallon) in a lowes measured paint bucket which may not be 100% accurate. Poured in 4 quarts and went thru the gears for a couple of minutes and pulled the check plug and nothing. Reinstalled bolt loose, added 4 ounces, removed bolt and drained about 3 ounces out. This was a FWD 2022 CRV and had never had maintenance done on transmission with 40K. What I took from this experience is it was within an ounce when it left the factory and took 4 quarts to fill. Level was based on a bubble level on roof while sitting on all 4 tires and releveled after placing on jack stands. Total time about and hour and definitely will do again in another 40K as new fluid was golden and old fluid was dark and had slight smell. Thanks again for the info as without your video I probably would have paid a dealer as I definitely didn't want to screw it up. As others have stated, not much different in complexity than changing motor oil. Perhaps I didn't have it leveled correctly and drained an extra 1/10 of a quart as what others have said about 3.9 quarts didn't hold true but I did refill what I drained plus one ounce so I should be good.
$150 saving. Every three years. Better let dealer do the normal flushing but not DIY drain and fill. Not worth to buy and store all of these tools to save $150 every three years. Don’t dump the old oil everywhere you want
All these tools? Do you mean a wrench? Also, I take my oil to Autozone or Napa and they recycle it. So for me, it is worth saving the money and in exchange, I put a wrench in a drawer. I use that same wrench on my truck. Also, I make sure the job is done correctly, with the best materials. I also become self-reliant, and these skills translate to other areas of running a household, which saves me more money and I make sure things are done correctly.
thank you, in your video you explain well how to check the level, others videos only say that you have to measure what you took out and put the same amount 
Are you referring to the fill bolt? If so, I would say no, but it can't hurt. The one I replace is the drain bolt washer, just to make sure it doesn't leak. They cost less than a dollar, so I think it's worth it. Hope that helps!
You can, but I've heard that it is best to get a new one. They are really cheap from the dealer. If you know the size, you can even just get it at Autozone, Napa, etc.
Good - this is an easy job. Not worth paying for in my opinion. Plus, you’ll do a better job than the mechanic. Don’t forget to get a good crush washer.
Dude at that rate I would have just paid the 1000 it would be done the right way and if anything breaks you DONT have pay to fix anything fire stone covers it
I'm certainly not an expert, but the job was easy enough, albeit involved. I did this last year and it has worked great - no problems! It only took me an afternoon and it saved me big bucks, so I feel like it was worth it. But you're right, there are no guarantees or warranty with my work. I suppose it comes down to a person's individual priorities when deciding if they will do it themselves or pay to have a shop do it, and I will be the first to admit that sometimes (depending on what is going on in life) it is better to pay someone to do the work. I place a high value on DIY. I think there is nobility to be found in having the confidence to learn how to do things and then having the courage to do it yourself. That philosophy does not come without risk, but I think it ultimately makes you a more well-rounded person. I find value in self-sustainability and try to share that with others through my videos. Finances can be hard, and maybe this video will help someone who can't afford to pay to have the job done. I should mention that the dealer quoted me an additional $450 to charge the AC system after the installation. After tax, this job is close to $2000 - yikes!
@@Iamthebestican honestly dude I’m just worried about breaking shit with my car but to be honest your video had a lot of great points keep up the good work
