Thank you for all this information on pool table installations. It has helped tremendously 🙏 I have one question that would help me out greatly if you have the chance to respond. I've been helping out my local pool hall installing new cloth and we've been installing the Simonis 760. After doing the stretch indexing, we end up with a stretch from side to side of 2.5". Minus the .75" we end up with 1.75" working index. When it comes to the ends of the table, I'm able to stretch both ends at least 3+ inches, at both ends even when one end is stretched and anchored. We install the cloth dry, no water at all. I'm sure it's user error on my side, but I'm wondering if the ends should be able to stretch that much over the side to side working index? Or is it more important to just stay within the stretch index numbers regardless if the cloth can stretch passed that? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for you all your input.
Then you need to increase the side to side, and the ends equally. For example, if you're stretching 2" side to side, then both ends should be 2" as well. But when you stretch the second end, and you notice you can stretch 2.5" then on the next table, increase the side to side to 2.25" and both ends to 2.25". Watch the second end again. Adjust again if needed.
In my experience, just a dab of Permatex anti-seize on each rail bolt, and say goodbye to junk T-nuts. Really helps when you know that you are the guy that will be doing all the work in the future.
What’s your opinion about adding 3mm or 5mm facings to existing facings to tighten pockets instead of extending cushions and at extra time and money. Is a 3mm plus addition 5mm too much and will change the correct acceptance of the pocket or do able? Thx
Hello, I am curious to know the effects of having a gap in the bottom of the rail and the slate. I just got a table installed and two of the sides have this issue. I notice that compared to the other sides, the ones with this gap make a much louder noise. While the rebound is okay (ish), I'm mostly concerned about how big of an issue this is if there are gaps as mentioned in the video.
Hi, Thanks for a Great vid. It will help a lot. I have a 8ft table. With the rails removed my side pockets measure 6 inches along the side of the table and a depth of 3,5 inches. Is this a full size pocket, meaning i should give it a slack of 13/16 of an inch on the anchor side and 5/8 of an inch on the stretch side? Greatfull for any reply.
well I just copied your method and cutting in the middle pockets was as easy as can be, Best method I have seen , thanks a million for posting such a great tutorial video,
Watching your great videos and for someone like me, I could understand it better if you made a video with a mirror image. Just like you see it I think it easier to do. Just my opinion. I love the glue on rail method lots better than all those staples. Thanks Cobra!
You are awesome I so wish someone could give me info on tightening my pockets on an old 9 foot table. My corners are 5 and sides are 6 inches and just buckets. You’re the absolute best and I would love your input. I’m so disappointed in the table Balls drop that shouldn’t. Could my angles of the rubber be incorrect
Just got my used table set up by a local shop. The middle slate has chips on the middle of the play areas around 0.4” depth and 2” wide. They claimed that beeswax is all good as a filler ?
So awesome cobra thank you, I watched both of your tutorials and was amazed by your quality workmanship. Just freaking awesome bud thank you. I picked up so much knowledge.
O Nine Ball aqui no Brasil é fraco, mas eu estou me preparando para a liga profissional. Vou fazer minha própria mesa pq aqui no Brasil não tem mesa de Nine Ball
Thank you, King Cobra. Now I know how to do the rails correctly I can get on with my recover project. I had a so-called professional guy recover my table, a no-name but solid and well-built item, and the results were unusable for serious play. He failed to refill the bolt holes that were an unusual feature of my slate, so that there were several 'dips' along every rail that a ball could settle into. He also completely screwed up one side rail recover so badly there was a folded staple sticking up at a side pocket. I had to buy more cloth to fix it myself. He promised to return and re-do the job right, but instead he dropped out of sight, and I never called him, either, because I didn't trust his work anymore.
I usually just pick it out or I'll use like a 3/8 inch drill bit to hog out some of it. Just need to expose the screw head. One you can grab the screw it will push more bomdo out of the hole when you loosen it.
@@McSquizzee thank you I used a heat gun chisel and acetone. Worked great. I posted a short on my bird nerd channel of how I disassembled it. One minute short kinda fun.
never put the glue near the corners ! Only use strong duct tape at the corners from underneath. This guy doesn't shoot pool, he doesn't know! that glue on the corners creates a ledge, and the ball won't roll into the pocket at pocket speed... when you put glue like that, and then stretch the cloth, when the cloth moves, it brings the glue up to the edge with it ! and now you will have 1mm of glue bead at the top edge of the corners ! enough to stop a slow rolling ball. Let people that actually shoot pool for real help you! they are the ones that will be affected
If you glue the fabric right, the fabric won't pull back. If the fabric pulls back, you've lost your stretch leading into the pocket, and the fabric will begin bunching in front of the ball as it approaches the pocket ("sand rolling"). No way tape alone will replace glue if pocket stretched tight. But tape ok as secondary.
@@hightttech I'm not saying don't glue... I am saying don't glue where the ball rolls, or you are affecting the ball's roll... any glue under the fabric affects the ball's roll. The rails cover the glue, except near the pockets. a 1/32" height of glue will stop a pocket-speed ball from rolling in. I have seen this firsthand, I play pool every night for the past 15 years. on multiple tables. Also, the best glue to use is *SUPER 90* spray on glue from 3M, it doesn't break down like the other glues when time goes by and oxidation occurs. I have Super 90 3M spray glue staying put for 10 years
@@ralphwiggum240: I misunderstood your comment. Sorry. I TOTALLY AGREE, NO GLUE ON TOP OF SLATE. At pocket entry, I razor to BARE slate on top when i find glue. To protect finger cuts, I rather use 3M strapping vs duct tape because it removes intact without ripping, drying out or leaving goo. I have used 3M 90 in an emergency, but 3M 76 is my first choice for the bed, 77 for rails. Cheers
Yup. That's what I'm here for as well. Still trying to perfectly fold and de-bulk the Valley style rails. I like how this guy put a staple to lock the fold in place, then cover the staple with the flap.
You are the best on the internet. I did an amazing job, thanks to all of your guidance. I can't wait to do it again. I searched for months looking for direction and sir you are hands down my favorite
Cobra , I’m trying to get accepted to azbilliards and I’m still waiting on a member to approve me. It’s been a few days. I have no way to contact the admin. Any ideas? I’m looking for some help on a pool table I’m working on for myself. I just had the rails recovered and I’m not 100% happy about them. I’m not sure if I’m over thinking it.
