Hi everyone, I was driving my 2009 W211 E350 4Matic 3 days ago on the highway doing 75Mph and using my brake to slow down for traffic coming ahead (BOOM) my Electronic Stability Program (ESP) is not an operative message, and the warning light came on at the same time, my Cruise Control (CC) not working warning message came on too within minute or two! To make the story short, I ordered Mercedes's OEM brake switch replacement part (a common problem for the E series as I know of, maybe other models too, if they are using the same switch) for $19.95, and easy to replace DIY in 15 minutes for me! This part solved my ESP and CC problems! P.S. Make sure you are pushing on the brake paddle and HOLDING then install the new switch, NOW slowly release the paddle. This will reset the switch for your Brake Paddle Traveling Distens, ESP & CC! Happy Driving!
For the rear wiring harness, remove the plastic box that around the 2 cable bundles. This will release a ton of slack on them. Also this is the best time to change the spark plugs
Thank you for the video! It only took me about an hour to install the cover after watching your video. The only thing I did different is that I put the extra weather stripping that came with it on the front edge of the bed. Then I put the cover on top of the strip.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It's very helpful for replacing the rear brake caliper. An option to fighting trying to remove the E brake cable from the hole in the bracket is to remove the 2 bolts for the bracket. I just replaced one & the cable was seized from rust in the bracket. Rather than fight it or risk damaging the E brake cable, it was much easier to just unbolt the bracket from the old caliper & bolt the bracket & cable onto the new caliper. Thank you
New to torque wrenches and I have no idea which to get for this as there are so many options. 1/2 inch drive 10-150 ftlb? 1/4 inch drive 20-200 ftlb? 3/8 inch drive 10-80 ftlb?
Followed this and it worked great. 2 weeks later the swing latch would not release. I am not sure what is wrong but others have said this is the same problem they had. Any help would be great!
I had a similar problem and I think the connecting rod that is supplied with the new lock set is not as strong. This causes some flex during temperature changes. I had to disassemble and adjust the rod. If it happens again, it may need some extra metal strengthening.
I changed my oil yesterday on my wife's Toyota Rav4 6cyl. I set the oil filter and hand tightened at first to make sure I wouldn't damage to the threads. Then I tightened filter until it stopped like you did but after I started the car for a minute and then turned it of, a minute later or so I noticed oil drops coming down from the filter. I may have over torqued it so this time I used a torque wrench and set it for 19 lbs., restarted the vehicle and no oil drips. Drove for 6 miles and still no drips. So I guess I'm ok. Anyone out there have the same issue I had? DIYGuy?
Only other thing I think you can do is register your car and get on the Hondalink website mygarage.honda.com and then you can use the "Retrieve Radio / Navigation Code" to get the number.
Great video. On the back left bracket you can use a 12mm socket to remove it and leave the bracket attached to the plastic manifold. One less step since you have to take off the bracket off anyway to remove an ignition coil. Thanks for the video. Very informative and helpful
If you move the tool all around the valve stem and that area of the tire and you can’t get it to beep, then your sensor may be dead. I am currently having that issue with one sensor and I am going to have to get it replaced.
I had to stay on the button quite a while to get a horn from both of my rear tires. Probably well over a minute, but they both eventually programmed. The two front tires were almost immediate.
Are you talking about the tailgate or the trunk? No affect on the tailgate. However, all covers would prevent completely opening the trunk while they are on. You just need to roll it back a little if you want to completely open it. Trunk can be opened a little while it is rolled closed.
Great video, thank you. Adding the Corst Sport axle back to my 2010 C6 today. I'm sure this is sometnhing I will discover when I'm under there but why do we need to remove the H-pipe? Thank you again.
It has been awhile since I did it, but I believe there is not enough room to get the new exhaust in and out with that in place. Not sure if the C7 would be different.
Only other thing I think you can do is register your car and get on the Hondalink website mygarage.honda.com and then you can use the "Retrieve Radio / Navigation Code" to get the number.
