This video was super helpful and very well explained for newer less experienced people like my self. I feel confident now going to test this new calibration feature on my X1. Thanks! Looking forward to better prints!
Does anyone know where to get additional profiles for other 3D printers in Orca? I have a Prusa MK2S I would like to add and they don't have that in the stock list.
It's exciting to watch your videos this early on knowing Imma be like 'Hey I was one of his first 1000 subs' when your channel starts to gain traction, which it absolutely will, keep it up. You make some high quality videos
When using the Ellis method. Why do you have to put the pressure advance value in the filament settings tab you showed. can't I just change the k value in the ams instead? I suppose it's good to have under the filament tab for other printers and for that specific filament. But setting it there, Does it override the k value in the ams?
I actually didn’t test if it overrides what’s in the AMS. Having the k value in your slicer is more in line with how I’ve printed with other printers and makes more sense to me. If you’d rather take that number and use it on the printer with Bambus new thing I would think you could go ahead do that. Just don’t use the pressure advance in Orca.
@@ButterPockets yes I'll just set it like you did in orca. I'm using p1s and p1p. I'll just make sure the value is the same in ams for that filament just in case one cancels out the other.
I noticed the following Quirk: Did the auto flow rate calibration😊 for ABS and once it saved the "flow rate calibrated" filament profile the max volumetric speed had changed to 200. Might want to check, if true for yours also.
I think what their intent was for us to be able to calibrate the flow dynamics for individual filaments and set into the AMS so when people do multicolored prints the individual filaments are calibrated. The option to have flow dynamics calibrated before a print is for when you are just using a single color, you can just drop in the filament and then have it do the flow calibration right before the print starts. It could be an oddball filament that you may never use again, so no need to do calibration to save the K value.
But why would you not want to save the K value? It seems like such a waste to run the calibration before every print. Especially when filaments of the same type and brand basically don’t need separate calibration (which they even confirm in the dynamics page). I can see what you’re saying and maybe that is it, that’s just now how I would have done it. (Maybe it’s a good thing I don’t choose haha)
@@ButterPockets it would be nice to at least have the option to save the value of a calibration that is done just before the print. Maybe when you get the notice that the print is done there is a little check box to save the K value. That would be cool. Then you could just print with a new filament, do initial calibration before the print starts, then save the K value after the print is done.
@@ButterPocketsyou could say the same for what’s the point of bed levelling before every print… For people like me who only print with 1 brand, the flow calibration before a print is 99% good enough for all the colours from this 1 brand.
At this point, I have just started using Bambu slicer. I did notice the Flow Calibration did not work with PLA Support even after several attempts when doing automated run. It printed fine, but I think it was too translucent for the reader to calculate.
I'm using my X1C to create setting filament profiles to pass over to my P1S in Orca slicer and it works flawless! With the X1C auto PA test, well they don't support the bigger 0.8 nozzle, and had to do it manually and weren't that far off from the 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles !
what is the difference between enabling and setting the PA in the filament profile AND the K value stored in the AMS settings for that filament? What if both are set?
It’s my understanding that the Orca value in filament profile will override what’s in the AMS. If you want to be double sure set them to the same value.
@@TheSubsonicOne I can try and test that, but it’s set on my AMS and I’ve been using Orca with my profiles and K seems correct to me. Top layer looks good, corners seem okay, I don’t see any weird gapping on rounded corners, and my seam looks good.
This is 7 months after your video. I just purchased a P1S and tried using Bambu Studio for a while. It was missing a few features, so I switched to Orca. I absolutely refuse to go back. Orca is NOT dead. I like it better in fact!
Got my x1c yesterday. First 2 prints (stock loaded benchys) failed. 1st from a filament glob that was stuck on the nozzle from the wiper not wiping and 2nd from unstuck from the pei sheet no biggy. My question is how do I avoid redoing the 5 steps at the start after a failed print?
@@ButterPockets thanks for the response man! Sorry I worded that question all kinds of wrong lol. I think i just need to watch more of your videos to learn how to setup different filaments. It’s quite a learning curve for me coming from an e3 and cura to this.
@@gsdtdeaux7 no worries! If I can answer more just let me know and if there’s something you want to see let me know too. The video I’m working on now is covering *every* setting in the slicer! I’ve got a backlog of ideas to do and not enough time haha
You really don’t need them. Unless something isn’t working just use the default ones and change them as you need. The default profiles width, speeds, accelerations, etc are perfectly fine!
@@FizulNizam I should mention I meant for Bambulab printers. If you have something else I’m not so sure and if you have a Voron I’d use super slicer personally.
@@akierum I mean it maybe *could* but we don’t have access to the firmware or anything. It would certainly void your warranty and potentially be a fire hazard. It’s just not worth trying to mess with hardware limits.
I just found your channel and like it. I intend to watch a lot more of your videos. Keep up the good work. Can you specify that filament you show in the video, they grey one. I like the look of that with the little particles in it, it almost looks like marble. ;)
@@ButterPockets Lol I know it is supposed to look like marble, sorry. I also know that there are many options for that look out there, I was just wondering which one that was, thanks.
Tried the Flow Rate calibration, but when it is done printing and I need to click Next, it claim it failed, while the print looks fine. So is discards the results… Tried 3 times, with 2 different Bambu filaments in total. All failed. And yeah used the cool plate…
I would suggest checking your LiDAR and seeing if it potentially needs to be wiped clean (there could be a smudge or some haze from printing), possibly seeing if you are missing the hot fix update, or even reaching out to Bambu. Their support is pretty good but may take a while. Other than that I don’t really know.
What’s the difference of Orca vs Bambu? I mean it sounds obvious that Bambustudio is the slicer from Bambulab, but Orca. What fork of prusaslicer it is? Like SuperSlicer? Thanks for the video, I’m new to klipper core xy machines, always used marlin and cura!
Orca slicer is a fork of Bambuslicer, which in itself is a fork of Prusaslicer. It’s similar to Superslicer but hear a little more towards Bambu printers, but I hear it can be really good for other klipper printers. It has a lot of built in calibrations that are nice and overall has a thoughtful layout.
Its good the BBL is pushing Orca to include tests and calibrations that offers just as good of final results. I'm new to Printing (Qidi XPlus-3), and I made an almost immediate change to Orca, and its been enlightening on what I need to know and what to learn to improve my printing. Thanks for the great info.
Do you have a video on how you do filament management and all the tuning that goes with it? I would love to know how others do it. I almost want to go to Bambu Slicer just for the filament management but there's just so much I like about Orca Slicer. And you made a really great call out about the P1P or the P1S and the lack of lidars. I was thinking about getting a P1S as an extra printer to grow the farm and I would be screwed with Bambu Slicer. Ugh. I just really hate filament management/tuning and that's almost enough for me to give up all the greatness of OS.
Someone else asked for an “end to end workflow” video and I plan to film something like that this week and post next week. I can cover how I manage all the tunes, which in reality I just have a filament profile for Prusament PLA and ASA, Atomic PLA and ABS, and Polymaker PLA and ASA. So pretty much 6 profiles and even then they are pretty much all the same for a given filament type.
@@ButterPockets - Thanks for the stupid quick reply and I look forward to it. Definitely tag me if you remember, lol. I guess we're doing pretty much the same thing but then it gets trickier from there which is where I'm the most curious. My speed settings, and whatnot, for ASA are different than say for my PLA, or my PETG, etc etc. So then I have all the filament settings along with all the nozzle settings for each filament. Perhaps I'm over thinking/micro managing too much and I should have a handy cheat sheet that I adjust depending on the nozzle size.
@@craigfisher146 I manage speed with volumetric flow rate for the most part. I can’t remember the last time I touched a speed setting. Could my prints be better? Probably haha. I can totally tag you! Only having (almost) 1000 subs it’s easy to keep up with comments and stuff.
@@ButterPockets Well, I guess I'm not crazy to think of trying to manage my speed, thusly my filament profiles, by my volumetric flow. I thought I was until you said that out loud, lolz. I also do think my prints could be better as well but I'm not trying to win design awards so if the volumetric flow made my life easier, I'd down with that! Thanks for spit balling and look forward to your video!
Vid is set to go live tomorrow :) It might not cover *everything* you were asking - BUT I am going to make a second video where I go through the slicer and show some stuff in there including all my profiles. Should be up within a week
I kept seeing people's 'K' numbers on screenshots on videos, and didn't know what it was until I wandered into the calibration section on BS, I mean... running both made my Polytera look SOOOO GOOOOOOODD!!! like butter! my prints look like injection molded parts now!
I am so thankful for this Video! Do you still prefer Orca Slicer, because a newer Video from you is about orca slicer. I myself am also torn about which slicer to use, because of the new features from Bambu Slicer.
I prefer orca slicer because I like to enabled PA on a filament profile and just put the value in myself. I like that it’s all in slicer and let’s me control it easily.
I am super new to 3d printers. To give you an idea how new, I haven't ever heard of the word slicer. My wife bought me the p1s for Xmas. I'm afraid to print more than one item at a time. As you know if one fails, they all fail. skipping one fail print and continuing with the rest would be super helpful. My question is can that be done with the p1s?
Make sure to use either the bambu handy app or the desktop application. On the 'device' page (where you can see it print) there should be a skip button that will then let you choose an object on the buildplate to skip. I'm fairly new myself with the bambu lab printers but I know the option is there! Hope this will be ever so helpfull in your printing journey :)
@@DJL7777 thank for the information. I just tried the skip button and apparently even though you have different pieces printing it has to read each piece separately. I had 6 pieces printing but because I had assembled then as one piece I couldn’t skip one piece, it kept wanted to skip all 6 pieces. But know I know 👍. Thanks again
I'm so glad I chose the P1S! It will arrive in days! I thought the same thing in the last few minutes of your video: lidar still has a long way to go and for the moment manually calibrating is the way to go to get the best results. I wonder if the operations you performed on the X1 screen to skip the object can be done in another way for the p1S ... I'll try. Thank you for your videos that will help me get the best out of my P1S. Fabrizio from Italy.
09:35 *I found out they must be separate objects in Bambu, if you use 'Assemble' to organize parts or to do 'By Object' it won't let you cancel an individual part of the assembly. Makes sense, but just somethign I had to live and learn about
I have been having beautiful results with Orcaslicer and my two creality printers running Klipper on the Sonicpad. (An Ender 3 Pro Ship of Theseus / Stock Ender 5 S1)
Hey man, great video thank you. Could you do a video on how to run all the orca calibrations on an x1c? For me it seems the order these are done could be important and the starting point could also be important. So a video that shows something like… For $filament use $buildPlate prepped $thisWay, then do $anyOtherImportantSteps, then goto step 1. 1. Temp Tower with stock filament. Be sure to revert all filament settings to stock (if thats the case). Plug the results from this test here and goto step 2 2. *** Plug these results here and goto step 3 3. - end Rinse and repeat. I have been having moderate success printing ASA and decided to do the orca calibrations starting with the temp tower and it was horrible, so im kinda lost. Thanks
I’m actually planning a video for this weekend/Monday ish on exactly that! Some other people asked for an “end to end” workflow video so I’ll show what I personally do when I get new filament in.
the object skip is one major reason to go with the x1 over the p1p/s. After enabling object exclude on klipper I really hope its something that can be enbabled on the p1p/s as well...this wasnt a differentiating feature when I bought my p1p.
@@ButterPocketsI actually bought the P1S like 4 days ago and am considering maybe returning the P1S and getting the X1C. Do you have any experience with the P1S? I was told that it was so good already that the AI + Lidar didn't have much of an impact
@@TheGreatJ unfortunately no, I wish I could afford one so I could have a better perspective for videos! My only reservation about the P1P/S is apparently the P1P bed (same on P1S) seemingly has worse QC compared to the X1 bed and a lot of people who have warped beds are are P series owners.
the skip object is LEGIT GREAT, I've been printing 50+ tokens for board games at a time and just one (or two) will randomly get a poop pulled out of the chute and stuck to it, letting it continue would for sure drag it all over the plate and ruin the others, cancelling just the one? the rest came out perfectly. HUZZAH!
I do mine before each print. Each roll of filament can be different especially the cheapo PLA+ rolls. It doesnt take long to do and it means its calibrated for the whole print. I favour reliability over one or two minutes saved time tbh.
Why in the world do they store the K value in the printer, rather than in the filament profile? It's so confusing, because if I go to orca slicer, and put the K value in there, does it apply the K value twice (once in the slicer, and once in the printer)? It reminds me of the stupid way Prusa Slicer stores the IP address of the printer as some sort of side value instead of just making it a parameter in the printer profile.
I get it because the AMS units are kind of tied to the printer and it’s stored for each AMS slot. So regardless of what is in the slicer, I’d you print with AMS slot A1 it will use the PA for whatever is in slot A1. It’s not the most elegant or robust solution, but it works.
They should definitely send another update and save the K value to the filament so its not tied to the ams. So when you put the spool in another slot, it wont affect the K value
I get your point but for me storing filament settings on the printer is better because we have 5 people sharing the printer. We tried to store filament profiles on a shared folder but it was a pain.
Yea... I'm trying to ditch *_SuperSlicer_* since it appears to no longer being developed but man... There are some things it can do that *_OrcaSlicer_* cannot it _really_ hurt... For example, it is missing the necessary code to get the Nozzle off the Part and onto the Purge Block to purge the remaining Material still in the Nozzle before pulling it out. If left as is when doing a Color/Material Change it'll basically just squirt a healthy blob right onto the model ruining it which so far I've crudely fixed by having the Change Filament G-Code include a Move command to one of the Build Plate's Corners which isn't an ideal solution either because there the material will pile up quickly if you do a lot of changes within the first few layers. Personally, I'm really hoping *_PrusaSlicer_* would start to pick up some of the features I really just can't live with any more like automatically printing only one Perimeter on Top and Bottom Layers.
Also add maybe in a follow up video to change your Klipper PA value to 0 and then restart. Then run this test otherwise the firmware will over-rule the slicer (I believe). X1C is really geared for print and forget and get a perfect print 99% of the time. If you muck with the settings, the user is likely to Fup the AI inside the printer due to conflicting requirements.
Well, the X1 doesn’t run klipper. PA is also only enabled if you enabled it in the filament setting in Orca. If you check the gcode sent to the printer you can see the M900 commands at every step along the way. In all my testing with using Ellis’ tool manually (older video) and using it in Orca it does work well. I guess the only thing I should have more specific about is turning OFF the auto calibration if you want to use manually calibrated PA.
Well i unfortunately destroyed my wonderful dependable X1c. I have had it for 3 weeks. It has not had a single issue on any print i have done. A few hundred in that time. Then the updates came. I did everything. Installed updates and restarted and calibration. Then ran flow test and now i cannot get a print to lay down a first layer to save my life. Just makes a terrible mess nothing sticks to any plate. I have hours trying to sort it out. Did the hot fix. Nope. The z height and flow are good for the calibration lines. Then It goes to print the model and Z height is clearly to high. The filament stream is above the plate. No pressing into the build plate at all. Filament is not being pushed onto the build surface. Like i say tried everything. Plates, settings nothing is correct. So i have ended up rolling back to 1.05.02 firm and then had to switch back to orca with the old lidar pattern. I have it at least printing parts again. But i cannot get a perfect first layer like i had before. And its definitely more finicky. It does not drop the purge always down the chute. And various other little things. I wish i just had my original machine back. Clearly even with the rollback changes where kept. Hoping soon they have a solid version that fixes everything back up so i can get back to the solid dependable machine i had.
It's a little funny in a way, on any direct drive 0.02 is basically always the best result, IMO if you're getting otherwise on PLA/ABS on direct drive, your temperatures are probably not optimized. I had some ABS that gave me a best at 0.025, turns out I was printing it way too hot at 230. 218 was where it printed best at and PA went back down to 0.02 it makes sense if you think about having the filament at an optimal viscosity to print with. And viscosity is controlled with temperature and to some degree the extrude rate.
@@kalihban7212 that's what I thought also! But apparently you can end up with very different properties based on the ratios.. I thought I was going crazy and even tested it with acetone to be sure. At 218c I'm still printing like 15mm^3/S, it was giving me massive stringing problems otherwise because it was so much hotter than it's transition point, was just flowing out the nozzle every movement, regardless of larger retractions and move speeds between being fast, I think it's partially due to the CHT nozzle clone I have.
i have the opposite results. bambu studio is doing well with auto calibrating factor k, yet 3 out of 4 time it shows bad results for auto flow calibration.
i think flow tests are obsolete. i do vfa tests instead, find best speeds for each temp (test full temp range of your filament in 5° steps) then check your sliced model, pick the slowest wall area and set it as max, set temp according the values found out in tests. perfect print each time, no glossy and matte areas, no VFA. vfa depends on heat and vibrations/speed. flow calibration is invalid if you don't print at same speed+temp when you did the flow test. all you really need to calibrate are outer walls, those values also apply to top layers. rest doesnt matter.
Tuning extrusion multiplier (what I’ve been referring by to as flow) is not obsolete. The slicer is calculating the feed rate for a given speed and provided you’re under your max flow then it should be providing the correct feed rate for that speed. This is why I suggest tuning PA first because one you are under your max flow rate, and the pressure is being equalized, for an aesthetics first approach (which is what I try to teach, learned from Ellis) to achieve a good top surface the extrusion multiplier can be tuned to achieve a balance between gapping and overlapping. Once pressure advance is tuned that speed dependent flow is achieve and extrusion multiplier is the final knob, per se, to fine tune it. Setting your slowest wall speed to max is actually a great way to remove inconsistencies from the outer wall of print and ensure things get cooled correctly, minimum layer time settings would achieve the same thing. Your outer wall and top surface speed are independent as well, you can set them differently in the slicer. I personally think VFA tests aren’t exactly necessary. I talked about this in a recent video. If you are printing above your resonance frequency (and below the 2nd harmonic) you should be good to print at that speed. The default speeds on a BL printer are tuned quite well and input shaper works to keep accels under control to minimize vibrations. Let me know your thoughts, I’m open to discussing all of this and running tests and making videos on all of it if need be!
@@ButterPockets I'm just stunned that Bambu Lab didn't already have this before and that nobody in any of the reviews I've seen on them had not raised that as a deal-breaker or at least a major shortcoming. As said, I can barely remember a time when I did not have object exclusion. In fact, I only transitioned from Octoprint to Klipper when they added this to Klipper as to me that was THE only edge Octoprint still had over Klipper at the time.
I really liked Orca. I gave up and went back to cura because of simplicity. I wanted to really dial things in, but lost so much fine detail. Then I just wanted to slow down print speed, but was more complex than I wanted. I am sure I'd revisit if/when there is more tutorials or if I can get more help, but for now it isn't for me.
How is Cura simple? You have to scroll for ever or search for all your settings you want to change every time you do something different. It is the exact opposite of simple, and it is one of the main reasons people move on to PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer/BambuStudio/OrcaSlicer etc. Once you learn a new slicer more, you will start to realize how stupid Cura's UI really is.
I wouldn't say Orca is dead. The calibration on BS is BS. It fails to run almost every time on my P1S. It did run successfully one time, but most of the time it either sits there and does nothing or crashes after one or two lines. The printer otherwise prints fine.
Orca is not dead. Stupid statement. It is more and more recommended over Bambu Studio. Orca is always one step ahead. Bambu would stop publishing the source code to change that.
@@npmrc I know, it's kinda a stupid response to another stupid response to the comment on this video. I know all of this. But I don't care to explain to this person
I can't take any RU-vidr seriously who uses a marble filament for test prints. ESPECIALLY when they blatantly have other colors. How do I settle on any conclusion besides either you don't know any better and should or do know better and don't care?
@@ButterPockets you are totally right. Your viewers and the community at large were best served by showing marble test prints which are notorious for hiding defects. Again, either you didn't know which is a problem, or you just didn't care which is a different problem.
@@dougshellusn 🤷🏻♂️ I gave clear zoom ins that demonstrate exactly what the print looked like. The point of that segment isn’t to show a print that is imperfection free or to obscure anything. The point is to show you how the tests work so you can run them yourself. There was a clear difference between the two test prints that is without a doubt coming from the tuning, regardless of material. I encourage you to run the tests on your own and come to your own conclusions for your filament and printer. For what it’s worth I needed to tune that material and this video served as a good way to get it done.
@@ButterPockets so we go from dismissive to the "they go low we go high" approach. I'll say it again, as a best practice, the entire 3d print content creation community should refrain from using these types of filaments for showing A/B testing.
