That is more than likely caused by improper fuel level setting, stuck needle valve, or if it's a new needle valve, some causing the float to drop too low in the bowl and gets stuck at the bottom, leaving it open. I had to solder a little blob to the brass valve housing where the float tang touches it so it can't drop too low. I'm thinking of making a video about this issue soon..

I think about 3 liters, quite small, some people remove it and fill up a bit more often, not a big deal

I know, I'm ashamed my friend...at the moment I'm very busy doing house diy and building stuff, so RU-vid bacame secondary..sorry

@@cbrrr-p8v ok, yes it could be. Also could be blocked filter, not enough fuel, reserve switch not working or the fuel relay sending a wrong signal to the pump which will make it run like it is out of fuel, or if it's converted to gravity fed, the petcock is blocked...could be many things

@@MidlandCruiser you’re right, it is an endless list of things for this particular problems. I’m gonna start with the obvious. Thank you!

Yes, otherwise you can't get the spindle out.

@@MidlandCruiser thanks buddy, recently bought a neglected example and have been slowly piecing it back together with the help of your videos.

I havent seen any recent videos from you in a year, everything ok?

@@ThatBikerDad yes everything is good, just got a load of other things on my mind at the moment..also building projects around the house. I need to find my motivation again to carry on with youtube, it is hard beside a full time job..

Hi, thank you. Yes the play, as long as it isn't excessive, it's fine. It really is a small movement though.

Thanks. That isn't paint, it is the factory chroming.

No, not really. Could be deceiving though because of the noise, but as far as I remember it didn't affect it.

@@MidlandCruiser i see! Thanks for the reply. Also thanks for the videos by the way. Has helped me tremendously when working on the bike myself!

The baffle wasn't removable on this version. Only the 2022 updated version has one

Hello, yes I have seen that video too. The one I used has no seal whatsoever. In my opinion it is a bad idea. The only oil source for the bearing (previously the bushing) is coming from the camshafts, it sprays everywhere inside there and than flows down through the bearing..perfect. The bushing had 3 small holes to get rid of the extra oil in the head and flows back down next to the chain. If you leave the cover on, on the inside, than you are limiting the oil for the bearing which I think is bad, because the oil flow is restricted out from the head and can't oil the chain properly which could lead to more wear. The camshafts have plenty of oil flow for themselves and the extra what flows out is perfect for the open bearing...I have also noticed that when I ride the bike hard I don't get low oil level warning like others with bushing or sealed bearing which indicates lack of oil flowing back down and gets trapped in the head.. This is my opinion and I think it makes sense, so me personally wouldn't use any sealed bearing. Also remember, it must be a C3 rated one to allow for heat expansion. I drove about 3000miles like this and it's great, no issues. Hope this helps

@MidlandCruiser It does. Your thoughts were exactly mine too. Had the same concern about oil flow and adequate lubrication when using a sealed bearing. Thanks a lot! Off to swap mine 😊

Unfortunately that part is like rocking hore shit...you could possibly get a new (2nd hand) carb assembly easier. Also you could try and glue it, there are special glue available for using it in fuel, to be fair can't get worse than it is. To be fully honest I don't think that is a separate part which you can buy, it isn't meant to be taken out of the body. Hope this helps a little

You're welcome!

😁👍