Excellent Video Sir, I will be doing the very same 6205/C3 bearing upgrade on mine soon & this video really helps, as all your videos do, Keep up the good work & Ride Safe!.. :)
Thank you very much your kind words... You won't regret doing it and be prepared to lower your idle speed once done and warmed up...the engine just runs a lot easier and smoother, you'll see😉👍
You're very welcome... I'm glad you liked it. Also the bearing upgrade is well worth it for piece of mind, I'm running this for a few thousand miles without a problem 👍
Glad to hear it mate. The rear is just as easy, just set that on TDC and follow the steps in the video... Even the cam chain tensioner removal is easier, or even you can get away just pre tension it, use the Chain guide to keep it compressed and fit the little metal shim in the tensioner to keep it there. This way you don't even need to remove it and won't need a new gasket👍 hope it makes sense
Great video. Thank you. There is something by the chain, it looks like a black cable. Is that suppose to be in there? You know, the chain is spinning and can damage it, whatever that is.
@Lajos Kelemen Yes, It's actually one of the two Cam Chain Guides (One Long Guide as seen in the Video & one shorter guide that the Cam Chain Tensioner pushes against :)
Hello, thank you. Unfortunately adjusting as such, no it's not possible. If it's stretched beyond the tensioner's capabilities then you have to replace it. Also it is an infinity chain meaning there is no way to take out a link.. Hope this helps 😉
Hi 😁All that switch does on the 1100 is to change the speed of the fuel pump. The way it works is when you have your fuel light on, that sensor sends a signal to the fuel pump controller to slow down. That will cause the carbs to starve, giving you the feeling of an empty tank. When you switch to RES, the controller speeds the pump back up to normal, and that's it. There is no electric petcock, or anything like that, so no it doesn't click as such. Hope it makes sense.
Watched several of your videos, they are great! I saw another guy do the bearing swap and his had a rubber seal on both sides, but he only removed the outer facing the cover. Did yours also have a seal and if so what did you remove?
Hello, yes I have seen that video too. The one I used has no seal whatsoever. In my opinion it is a bad idea. The only oil source for the bearing (previously the bushing) is coming from the camshafts, it sprays everywhere inside there and than flows down through the bearing..perfect. The bushing had 3 small holes to get rid of the extra oil in the head and flows back down next to the chain. If you leave the cover on, on the inside, than you are limiting the oil for the bearing which I think is bad, because the oil flow is restricted out from the head and can't oil the chain properly which could lead to more wear. The camshafts have plenty of oil flow for themselves and the extra what flows out is perfect for the open bearing...I have also noticed that when I ride the bike hard I don't get low oil level warning like others with bushing or sealed bearing which indicates lack of oil flowing back down and gets trapped in the head.. This is my opinion and I think it makes sense, so me personally wouldn't use any sealed bearing. Also remember, it must be a C3 rated one to allow for heat expansion. I drove about 3000miles like this and it's great, no issues. Hope this helps
@MidlandCruiser It does. Your thoughts were exactly mine too. Had the same concern about oil flow and adequate lubrication when using a sealed bearing. Thanks a lot! Off to swap mine 😊
No I had no problems or noise coming from the engine since I swapped the bushes to bearings. The tensioner can get stuck so worth checking to make sure it moves freely on full stroke. Can also be the chain if stretched too much. And while you are there then the valves and timing should be checked as well, just to be sure.
Hi thank you. I used Google translate because I don't speak Spanish sorry. Unfortunately I can't go to Spain, I wish I could. I understand that you don't trust workshops, I don't trust them. They all about money and they rush the job they doing, if they do it at all... sad really. These old bikes need proper care and mechanics not the ones currently in workshops who know how to plug it in a computer and that's it, but no idea how a carburettor works... All the best
