So my area, Northeast Texas, could probably do splits with mated queens into August…that would still give me 2-4 months of bee activity before our “cold” weather hits.
Thanks for your videos. I very much enjoy them. I didn't rob the first year and very little the 2nd but caught 3 swarms off of it. I had also purchased another and this year caught 4 more swarms so I'm up to 9 now and plan on robbing this week. Hopefully 🤞 will do better this year. Where I live this year we have went from an early summer with rain every few days to burning up. Every Beekeeper I know says not much honey this year. Anyway just wanted to comment and say your videos are to the point and you don't get off track. I appreciate that.
Another way of storing them, especially if you don't live where it stays consistently cold during the winter is with a product called Xentari BTa (Bacillus Thuringiensis aizawai) No need for freezers or moth crystals - just one easy ORGANIC application per year.
What part of the UP? I’m from Indiana and we go to the UP every other year for hiking, off roading, and fishing. We hang out in Ontonagon county. I saw a nice bee yard up there with around 16-20 colonies while out in my SxS last August.
It’s been 3 years since this video. Any news on the labeling? As far as I know it’s not been changed yet. I have some Apibioxal that I want to use this year. I’m in my 2nd year of beekeeping and my first hive from last year didn’t survive. My mite count skyrocketed in August when my supers were on and I waited until after harvest to treat.
Hey man I’m a first time beekeeper from New Brunswick Canada we have some really harsh winters.. I just picked up 2 nucs last Friday and brought them to there new home, for boxes I have deep supers and plan on double stacking once they’re used to each of there single boxs and fill about 80% of the slides I’ll give them more room but I was wondering if I would be able to take a slide or 2 from each of my colonies and replenish with syrup around fall when it’s not too cold yet? Also what would you recommend for a ratio 2-3 or 3-3 cause I don’t wanna give them 1-1 and there be humidity/condensation and then go into winter like that.. thanks in advance
Thanks for the awesome info! This will be my first year getting to harvest honey. I should have around 6 supers to extract next week and then hopefully catch the sourwood flow. I know on my property alone I have 30+ sourwood trees. If I put my supers on when the bloom starts and take them off and harvest when the nectar flow is over can I label that honey as sourwood honey? From what I’ve researched it takes skeins 4-6 months to get test done to find out for sure if it’s sourwood. Any advice is much appreciated
I did a similar split about six weeks ago, I only placed the new (nuc) box about 15ft (4.5m) from the first. I've seen videos where (much more experienced) beeks do splits side by side with the old hive!
Great video. Thanks a bunch. Question: do nurse bees go through the queen excluder and into the honey super to cap the honey? I sometimes shake and brush bees away from the hive. If some of the bees are nurse bees, I wonder If they can successfully find their way back to the hive. Thanks.
As a side note, if you decide to move a hive at nite, use a red headlight / flashlight or red tail lights of a vehicle! The bees can't see the red light and fly to it like white light.👍👍💪💪🙂 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Queen excluder between hives with new foundation without comb? I have heard it say that to make it easier for bees to draw out brand new comb, if you don't use a queen excluder and if your brood box is full that it helps keep from swarming while also allowing the bees quicker access since they don't have to get through the excluder. What are your thoughts with a full 9 to 10 full frame deep drawn out? First year beekeeper question.
I have a full box of brood and such at the bottom and then a second box that’s literally all honey frames and the third box I put on top when I wanted to stop swarming by adding space is still being drawn out. Should I move that empty box being drawn out to the middle and the one that’s all honey to the top? It’s 80 degrees out at the moment so warm.
I am in my 3rd year of bee keeping so I don’t have a lot of drawn comb yet. I have been keeping doubles so far, and still having trouble keeping bees from swarming. Any way you could do a video on what you’re doing to keep singles and keep them in the boxes and not in the trees.
Your content is outstanding! I’m a hobby keeper for the past 6 years next to you in Mecosta County. I’ve had issues getting bees to overwinter, evidently my mite regiment ineffective. What is your best advice on how/when to treat? Can you give an example of what measures you take by month the you feel works best? You being so close makes your advice very applicable to my situation.
So after you split a double deep. Do you immediately add top box since that split box is full? I have very healthy colony in a double deep brood setup with one deep super. 3rd year they survived winter i want to expand hive.
Hi! Just finding your channel... this is my 9th Spring as a beek but I still feel like I don't know how to make a successful split. I'm in central Alabama and it's time to do something so planning to attempt in a few days. My big hive has 2 deeps and I just added another super (2 total), so my question is... if I split, will I still get honey from my big hive?
I’ve done a split and there is a capped queen cell in the colony already, that has had the queen removed. How long before she emerges at this point do you think? 🙏🏻🐝
