This channel is dedicated to everything automotive. I'm a trained engine builder and professional automotive technician with over 25 years experience. I mostly upload Porsche 944 related content but every now and again I get around to making videos on other cars that I work on at the shop. I upload regularly so be sure to subscribe!
Hi there. Great video and thanks for sharing it with us. I have a quick question please the lower balance shaft housing. Do you put silicon around the O-ring on the back to help seal it?
Well done! Using your directions I just corrected the problem of the fuel gauge on my '84 944 NA bouncing around and reading empty when there was gas in the tank. I couldn't have done it without your instruction on how to create a special tool by modifying a flat blade screwdriver. (Probably available for $150 from Porsche.) Thank you. -Greg
Hey Brent, First thanks for alllllllll of the videos! Have watched and them all and they’re a huge help. Really appreciate you taking the time to record them and for being such a positive force in the 944 community. Congrats on the new shop! Looks amazing and you’ve certainly earned it. I bought a white ‘88 951 this past weekend and the gauge cluster face - not the gauges them,selves but the surround - has a similar “condition” as what I see at the 5:20 mark. Is that just a sign that it needs a good cleaning? - Thanks!
Hey Edredas, how much was this whole job with everything being done/replaced. My turbo car is also reading low oil pressure only when it warms up, Just wondering where the ball park is for tearing into the engine like how you did. Thanks for your help!
Thanks, this project was intimidating me, taking apart a bunch of fragile 37 year old plastic parts. But it was not as bad as I was expecting. I took the opportunity to test and clean the dash bulbs, they had a some dust and grime on them, and are brighter now. Would be a good opportunity to replace any burned out bulbs that you might have.
About to purchase your old burgundy ‘86 944, any red flags I should know about? It seems well taken care of with lots of maintenance since ~’18? Interested to hear from a previous owner
Change the rubber fuel lines now if you still have original lines. Then send the injectors off to be cleaned and flow matched so you will know they are leaking externally. Also change the fuel pressure regulator seal and make sure there is no fuel coming out of the vacuum line on it. While these may not be your issue it’s a good place to start whenever you smell fuel since it could be a sign your car is getting ready to burn to the ground. Once those are addressed you can check the less serious issues such as charcoal canister etc. however anytime I’ve smelled fuel in the past on these cars it’s usually something bad that was luckily caught just in time.
It's the secondary computer which in the english version of the work shop manual called the Knock Regulatory Unit. So the KLR controls timing, boost pressure (using the cycling valve), and detects knock.
Another great video. So organized. Very detailed. Gives me the confidence to do mine. Starting this much over due project with my son. It’s an automatic non turbo 86 1/2 944
Did you ever do a video on how to update a early water pump to a later water pump. There are some mods required to the back cover but no one ever details that. Thanks for are your videos and T&T's, they are golden.
An 87 925S came up, is there a big difference in the performance with an 88? It has 140k miles. I probably need to do have the timing belt done. All basic services. Is this going to be an expensive care to have Serviced? I’ve had my 92 GTI 16v since 99, I tend to hold onto my cars :)
I own a few 1987 924S’ and a 1988 924S. If you can find a 1988 model, get it because they are so much fun. However the 1987 model isn’t bad but yes the 1988 is worth the extra effort to find. With that being said, I bought my 1988 924S 2016 and put about $3,000 into it day one. Since then just tires and it’s daily driven. So these cars can be extremely reliable and cheap to own but you got to knock out all the maintenance that they’re behind on. They’re 30+ years old, so a lot needs to be replaced. So buy the one that has the most work done and not the least expensive one. I hope that helps!
nice job and interesting video. Too bad you didn't give any technical information to what mods were done? Did you use the original cam? and did you use the regular oil pan? What compression does it have? Do you se the original Motronic? thank you
There’s really no technical stuff to give since this was built for the ‘944 spec’ class. So everything has to be original and the only mods allowed are sleeves or pistons which have to be approved. Even then the compression must remain stock.
Thank you for the video...very helpful. I do have a question, perhaps you can help. I am working on an early 944 similar center console minus the sunroof switch. I have one light for the oil pressure gauge, one for the clock, and one for the HV/AC face plate. However, I have a fourth light, larger base with two ground wire and a white/blue power wire. I have watch this video hoping it would show the placement of the fourth light. Unfortunately, I didn't see that wire in your video. Do you happen to know where this fourth light is supposed to connect to? Thank you for your time, much appreciated!
Yes, this is a great question that I should have addressed in the video! In The original 924 and on European 944’s without air conditioning there is a volt gauge where our clock is. So the clock sits where our A/C switch is and that other light is for the volt gauge. I hope that helps!
What a great and thorough video. I really enjoyed it and you make everything sound easy. I dropped the oil pan in situ before, and it was a very very tedious job that I wouldn't want to repeat anytime soon!!!
@@edredas thank you that worked. When you’re tightening the bolts back up after using the “tool sensor” do you have to do any jigging about or just tighten them as they are. Does the sensor with the .8mm do all the work? If that makes sense thanks
Sorry to highjack this post. I need your advice and did not find another way: I'm in the process of finally buying a 924/924S or 944. I plan to take it back to Switzerland where cars with less than 2000cc are much cheaper to insure, therefore i was thinking about a 924. I was wondering if the difference from a 82 924 to a 87 924S or a 944 is worth the extra cost of the bigger 2.5l insurance. Are there major up grades from the 82 924 to 86/87 924S or 944. What is your opinion on that? Thank you, Kurt
This is a great question! Here’s my opinion from being around them for over 20 years. The 2,0 litre 1982 924 has mechanical fuel injection that will require a specialist to keep it running, if you can find one. On a good day it might do 0-60 in 9 seconds, so it can be scary getting out on the road. The 924S and later 944 is like driving a modern car. My fairly new 200 hp Lexus has about the same 0-60 time. They also have electronic fuel injection that anyone can service. When the belts are changed and service is done at the correct intervals, they are extremely reliable cars. I can’t say the same about the 2,0L engine.
Hello and thank you for your helpful replay. I would like to ask you a few more questions. But im in las vegas and wont be able to come to your shop and spend some money in return. But what i would like to do is send you $100 and then supply my question in writing, so you dont have to bother with questions going back and forth online. And you know all the cars very well and can answer all my question in a trustworthy fashion. Would that be an acceptable option? Thank you Kurt
Hey, awesome video. Quick question! The copper strip connected to the copper wire on my fuel level sender broke at some point in my car's lifetime. Is it worth it to solder a new piece of copper and reconnect the wire? Thanks!
Hi we have a 944 one built in 85, at the moment with the problem that when the car is cold it accelerates and drives normally, but as soon as it gets warm it starts to stutter and jerk when accelerating. The problem occurred when I brought the car out of hibernation after it had been sitting for about 5 months. Before that, the car ran perfectly and didn't twitch at all. We have replaced the intank fuel filter as well as the filter after the pump as our first suspicion was dirt in the fuel but that was not the problem. Is it possible that the mass air flow sensor is suddenly broken due to standing still or what could be the reason? We need help or tips for diagnosis. Kind regards Jonas
I’ve seen something similar before. Does the car happen to have a hole in the battery tray? Sometimes water will drip down onto the computer and ruin it. The symptoms won’t show up until the computer gets warm and starts malfunctioning.
@@edredas thanks I have checked that just now and there is no hole plus the car was stores inside and hasn't Seen water in a long time…. Any other possible causes ideas?
This is great Brent, but what about the vacuum line that runs from the engine bay somewhere ( trying to figure that out) to inside the car to the valve thing in front of the AC evaporator housing?
