i’ve watched your vids for years and years ! i’ve had a few years off as i think i watched all of them and only just come back again to find you have new stuff so i’m so gratefull and excited again as it enspires me to get off my arse and work on my turbo 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 thankyou your content is the best
I just got my dad's 88' 951 running about a month ago after sitting for 12 years. I drove it for the first time and it was amazing. I need to do a timing belt service just like the one in this video, but I just can't find anyone in my area that will do it. I don't want to do it myself since I'm only 15 and have been working on cars for only a few years. I hope I can figure out where to do it soon. I love these cars, and your videos have really helped me on mine.
I need to do another belt service on my 928. This week I removed the intake because the idle control valve isn’t working. I might change the if you injectors too. Ed from KC 👍🏽
Awesome video and car! Thank you! Do you plan to make a video how to rebuild a rear axle assembly of these cars? I'd like to remove it and give it a 'like new' look.
I think there were already a few videos online so I never bothered. That said, I did take one apart in one of the Nautic Blue Turbo videos and replaced the boots. I may have shown some of the steps but as we've grown as a business and time has become more precious we just buy new ones nowadays. So its unlikely I'll rebuild any in the future since its too time consuming. Thanks!
@@edredas I did not mean the drive shafts but the whole assembly containing the torsion tube, trailing arm, spring plate. I'm not sure if I'd disassamble it for a repaint how can I set those back properly.
Nice clean turbo but i miss the original wheels& frontlights, always nice to watch your video,s ,when are you going to work on the new location? Greetings from the Netherlands;-)
We hope to find a new home soon. Right now videos are about a year behind, so this car was actually in last summer. So it will take a while to see it even once we've been in there a while. Thanks!
I don't have any videos on it yet, but I'm sure one will come in eventually to where I can make a video on it. Right now I've got a later car here that needs one but it's quite different.
We use a compressor with a regulator to listen for leaks. If you have a compressor already then your looking at about $7 in parts for a regulator, pipe cap, and fitting.
This warning light will come on for many different reasons, everything from low oil, to high temperature. In this case the seat belt buckle switch wasn't working so it thought the seatbelt was unbuckled.
Hey man, I’ve been watching your videos for about a year now, taking a lot of them as a guide on how to fix my own (1986 944) I recently lost all back pressure in the clutch pedal, so the pedal would go down with easy, but not come up. I’ve since replaced the master and slave cylinder, and screwed with the linkage between the push rod into the master and the clutch pedal, but I cannot, for the life of me. Get the pedal to build any pressure. Still straight to the floor. Any suggestions?
The later clutches are a bit harder to bleed due to there being a separate chamber inside the brake reservoir. So if the front end is raised up any at all it will be difficult to get fluid in there. So I usually over fill the fluid a bit and gently tilt the reservoir until I see fluid going into that front chamber. Once it has enough fluid I have someone work the pedal and keep an eye on fluid while I'm underneath. Sometimes it takes opening the screw about a good half turn to get the fluid to start. Once that's done I back it down a bit and while using a bleeder bottle I keep bleeding until the air is out. Sometimes working the screw in and out while they pump will push more air out. Once you get five solid pumps through a clear line without even the tiniest air bubbles coming out you should be set. I hope that helps!
@@edredas MAN! You are the best, I'll be trying this tomorrow. Still in high school, and just trying to keep my 944 afloat while juggling all my classes. I'll let you know if it works!
Is this a turbo or N/A? On the N/A cars I think you can remove it easily without taking stuff off, but the turbo heat shield is much larger. So you'd either have to pull the headers or the oil cooler housing. Neither of which are fun....
I haven't had any issues with either belt. I was using the Conti belts but they've now switched to a racing style of balance-shaft belt that has grooves. Despite being stronger, these belts are screaming loud so many people don't like them on their car. Since I prefer to use one brand of belts I have now switched over to the Gates belts for this reason.
What brand is the water pump, timing belt and balance shaft belt did you select and why? Looked like a Gates belt? What made you think all those had to be replaced? I think mine needs to be replaced but have no signs of wear or leaks (just age). Any recommendations? I have a 1987 turbo with about the same mileage (74800) on the car. I guess brake and clutch fluid must be replaced if it’s older than 10 years?
We are repairing about 15-20 944's at any given time so we tend to order parts in bulk. The brands are usually whatever we can get the best discount on at that time. Sometimes the belts are from Gates, other times they are from Continental, etc. Same goes with the water pumps. So don't get too hung up on the brands. In the decades I've been working on these cars we have never had one returned regardless of the parts we used. While there have been some that have come in because the water pump or belt failed they were all due to either improper installation or lack of proper maintenance. A good rule of thumb on these cars is to change the belts regardless of how much they are driven every 4-5 years. The belts can break without warning and its worth $14 now to save yourself the thousands later. As for the brake fluid, I would definitely flush it every 2-3 years... I hope that helps!
Do you have any videos/resources or preferred methods for bleeding the clutch? I have heard that reverse bleeding it is an easier way, but I am not sure
What year is your car? The early cars (1982-1985.1) are really simple but the later ones you have a separate chamber for the fluid. As long as its topped up enough and the chamber stays full then its no problem, but we usually have three guys doing it. One under the car watching the air bubbles, another in the car pressing the pedal, then finally the last guy making sure the fluid stays full. If you're trying to bleed an early clutch you can just do it yourself with a bottle.
@@edredas I have an 86 - which I am guessing is the late model. So correct me if I am wrong, your suggestion with 3 guys is basically the same method as if you were to bleed brakes; i.e. open the slave cylinder nipple, press down on the clutch pedal, close the nipple, and finally lift up on the clutch pedal? and the third guy would make sure that the res is full.
Yup, you have a late model. So you will have the later chambered brake reservoir. We use a bottle with fluid in it along with a clear line to watch that all the bubbles are out. The fluid in the bottle makes it so air can't be sucked back in and we aren't always having to open and close the bleeder screw. If you are doing this alone a pressurized bleeder will probably make things easier. I have one and find that it takes longer and doesn't work as well as just using a bottle. However, it does take a team effort. I hope that helps!
