This and an NC944er video on the same day, jeez. I really wanna get out to the shop and start working on my 951 now This is such an informational video, so many things that are so rarely seen on these cars.
It’s highly likely that this engine would have wound up as scrap parts if it hadn’t found its way to edredas’ shop. I’m glad they were able to save it. 👍🏼
Man whoever “rebuilt” that engine had absolutely no business touching that poor car. That is exactly why in the rare instance that I take my car to a mechanic I make sure they know 944’s.
What a great and thorough video. I really enjoyed it and you make everything sound easy. I dropped the oil pan in situ before, and it was a very very tedious job that I wouldn't want to repeat anytime soon!!!
This is by far the most important video you have produced. I started to rebuild my 944 step by step then ran into this issue, wish this would have been out earlier. Checking pressure outside of car is a time saver. I have learned sooo much this episode. Thank you for passing on the knowledge. Now to my own tear down i’ll be back!
A very hard life, indeed! I heard that once we had the engine running correctly the owner had it repainted and the windshield replaced! So I hope its out there living the life it should now!
Ah, the flashbacks from replacing my clutch! Didn't drop the transaxle but yanked the motor and replaced the steering rack in the process. I tried to reseal it but that didn't work and got a used one from a local guy.
Wow! Great job! Can you give us an idea of how long it took to diagnose/complete this job and the final bill to the customer? Just preparing for my future visit to you 😁
Thanks! Hopefully you would never have to go through this, but we though we were working with a rebuilt engine so we started with the basics. It would have went quicker and cheaper if we just yanked the engine to begin with so in all it had to have been around 8 months to figure out and around $9k, just due to doing things twice... but it was a while ago so I'm not exactly sure how long it took or how much it was. We usually have around 10 other cars here that are suffering from similar issues so it can take a while move car to car, rebuilding engines and figuring out wiring/vacuum issues....
@@edredas Thanks for the info! Yes, definitely hope to never go through that, but good to have an idea what's involved in case it does happen. Your editing is so good I thought it was like a 2 week job...lol...8 months, WOW! Good work as usual though!
Had this exact failure happen on my car… Original balance shaft bearing failed causing oil pressure to leak out. Eventually bearing material went into the oil and destroyed every single internal parts of my engine
Ouch! Sorry to hear that! I think in this case the owner had the engine rebuilt by someone and they just slapped it together. There was a lot of other issues we came across as well... this one was tough to find.
Merry Christmas Brent. Great Video and looking forward to seeing more videos and your new shop in 2023! I;ll share more pictures of my 944 after new paint!
@@edredas hey I have a 83' 944 I've tried everything I can think of to get it running how much would you charge me to get it fixed? I'm located in Tupelo Mississippi
Hello Edredas I've seen all your videos so far and they're all great!! I have a good 944 2.7 (no problems) and a 968 that I'm resealing the engine at the moment. My question about the 968, the O-ring for the oil suction pipe was originally black. is the new one white? With my seals there is no other that could fit. It also pushes out a bit when you tighten the screws. Is it correct that way ? my second question How tight do you tighten the connecting rod bolts. I have 2 books and 2 different values. One book says 80 Nm, or the other book says 25 Nm plus 90 degrees. ? Best regards from Austria in Europe.
Hi, that is correct. The Victor Reinz sets come with a clear seal for the pickup tube that will squeeze out a bit. As for the rod nuts, I've only ever seen the 75 Nm + 5 torque spec. I don't know where the other figure of 25 Nm +90 would come from, but all my manuals have the 80 Nm figure. When installing, I usually go back and forth between the two rod nuts, first setting both to about 25 Nm, then both to around 50 Nm before going to 75. I have seem guys snap the studs trying to go to 75 Nm all at once because the other side cocks a little not only giving a false torque but putting too much load on the stud. So take your time and do them evenly, then after they rest at 75 Nm for about 15 minutes, add the additional 5 Nm for a total of 80 Nm. I hope that helps!
@@edredas Hello , Thanks for the help. I was so unsure and then I found the original black seal from a seller. I have now installed it. Most of the more modern cars have the specification 25 Nm (18 ftp) plus 90 degrees for the connecting rod bearings. The 968 was probably already a car where this information was used. I bought new nuts and now tightened them. For the time being I was afraid because they are definitely tighter than the 75+5 NM. The fix with the angle has been changed because it should be more precise. I found that out through research. Please keep up your videos. They are the best!! Above all, you always have nice weather there :-) I live near Vienna. Long wet winters that are nothing for a 944 :-) Werner
15:40 if you must use a scilicone for things like girdle/balance shaft housing/valve cover to head plate use a anaerobic sealant as the part sandwiched will harden but the access scilicone will stay in a goo form as this only hardens in absents of air.,this is so it doesnt harden then clump and clog up passages.
Hello Brent,have you ever had a ABS light on a 89 944 turbo I,'ve checked the fuse and jumped the relay,,,,light still on Disconnected battery overnight, light comes on and just stays on,,,, Thanks a bunch Kenneth
Hey Edredas, how much was this whole job with everything being done/replaced. My turbo car is also reading low oil pressure only when it warms up, Just wondering where the ball park is for tearing into the engine like how you did. Thanks for your help!
Not just a Doctor - more like a Consultant! Thanks so much for this investigation. What size fitting do you need on the oil pressure gauge - it looks bigger than the ones I have?
Thanks for the video! A few questions: I'm going to be tearing into replacming the rod bearings this week. What clearance am I supposed to look for when using the plastigauge on a 3.0L engine? And do I have to remove the rack and pinion? THanks!
Hey sorry for the delay, it can be hard to keep up with all the comments on the channel sometimes. The clearances should be 0.0007-0.0027" (0.02-0.07mm). The wear limit is 0.0039" (0.10mm). As for the rack and pinion, we often just unbolt it from the cross-member and let it hang out of the way. I hope that helps and good luck with your project!
This was a few years ago, so I don't remember exactly. It likely would have been cheaper for us to just yank the engine in the first place, but we were trying our best to avoid that. However since the engine was recently rebuilt, it did have some new parts that we luckily didn't have to replace, however changing the rod bearings with the engine in place only to have to turn around and pull the engine really cut into any savings. My best guess is that this was probably around $9k and took a lot of work to diagnose....
the previous owner shouldnt wn forced inducted cars,the amount of boost leaks he created by sheer laxyness prove it. i encourage anyone with a boosted car to do a boost leak test every other oil change,boost leak testing should be part of basic maintenence and its grossly under done by society.
