My doodle doesn't like the brush, so we only get a bit done each day. We are about 3 weeks into Chirag's Bucket Trick on RU-vid to get her to accept brushing, and it's working! We also only brush her in the morning lying down when she's still tired and will put up with our fussing on her. And we switched from a slicker brush to a softer plastic pin brush, which doesn't get as deep but it helps her accept the brush better. Now I can gently brush almost half her body. Hopefully in another month or two she will gradually come to accept a long pin slicker brush. Each dog is different, and I guess we have to go at their pace and in their style. I brushed her with the back of my brush, no bristles or pins, for over a week before I even tried to touch her with the working side of the brush.
Vet’s recommend a larger than snout size Kong, they need to be able to hold in back in their mouth but not have the possibility of choking on it❤ just go for the one they looks slightly “too” big
Do you mean are you able to eventually walk your dog without needing to use the head halter? If so, there's no solid answer to that question. It entirely depends on you, your dog, if you're working on training loose leash walking while your dog wears it, how much time you spend practicing, how consistent you are with training, etc. Some people use head halters as management tools and don't bother training the dog not to pull. In that case, you may never get your dog off of it. If you are using the head halter in the interim as you teach your dog to walk nicely, you will eventually be able to move away from using it but how long that takes will vary dog to dog.
@@DarcieThedogtrainer First of all thank you for answering my question..specially since it’s been awhile you posted this video. I’ve been looking everywhere online for the answer I guess since there is no solid answer (like you mentioned) is the reason why it’s hard to find. The halter leash keeps my dog walking almost perfectly. It’s exactly how I’d like him to walk with me. By “continuing and practicing” do you mean giving him rewards when he ignores or doesn’t react to what triggers him while he’s on the halter leash? Or after using the halter leash for awhile then taking it off and using rewards and correction with other leashes? Because once the halter is on him he just goes into perfect walking form/pace. I just want that to be continued once I take the leash off.
@@erfansvideos It's hard to offer advice specific to your situation without knowing you and your dog. The best I can suggest at the moment is to pick a loose leash walking technique and work with your dog using that. Once they are good at that, gradually start switching the leash back and forth between the head halter and collar (leaving the head halter on his face when the leash is attached to his collar). Over time once your dog is ace at walking on a loose leash, you can switch away from the head halter entirely if you want. But some people choose to use one anyway, especially if they have a large or very strong dog or are unsteady on their feet, just to make sure they can always safely walk their dog without getting pulled around or injured.
@@DarcieThedogtrainer Fantastic advice! Today I even took just the face part of the halter leash off and he was walking the same for a few steps till he realized it was off and went back to old self lol but that should work 👍 just have to walk him longer till it becomes permanent. One other thing I’ve realized is that his left eye discharges a lot of water after our walk when I use the halter leash. I did some research and they say it might be because the leash is touching his eyes or maybe the material of the leash. Do you know of any cases where this has happened? And thanks so much again for your time and advice! I’m a subscriber 🙂
@@erfansvideos if it's not the right halter for his face shape or if it's not fitted properly (too loose or too tight), it can rub too close to the eyes. I have not heard of eyes watering but that could be happening if the fabric is rubbing against his eye for sure.
I really appreciate the reminder that at first it's not about getting them all the way groomed, but getting them comfortable with the process. I constantly forget that and then get overwhelmed and frustrated when my dog won't sit still. Thank you for putting it so simply.
Today is one year since my baby passed on, we were together for 15 years. I was heartbroken and spent this last year grieving but a rescue dog came up and I am adopting him. These hints will be a big help when he arrives. Thanks
My dog doesn't hate being brushed. He gets too excited when I get the brush out and won't sit down. But once I actually start brushing him he's fine lol.
Thanks, not many videos talk about fearful dogs approaching other dogs. Now I just need to find a dog that's willing to lend his butt to be sniffed by my dog.
I adopted a 5 yr old standard poodle that had been found as a stray and was in horrible condition. He had to be completely shaved because he was so matted . Now his hair is a length that it has to be brushed , I have bought several slicker brushes, he hates to be brushed , he will stand still for a couple of minutes and then escape , I really do not know what to do , I knew when I adopted him that I wanted to groom him myself because groomers are too expensive for my budget , any suggestions? Thank you .
Start with a metal comb or a pin brush. Many dogs find slicker brushes uncomfortable or even painful on their skin (one of mine does). Try it out on your own skin to see what I mean. If you start with a different tool, he may be more agreeable to it. And use very gentle pressure and small, quick strokes as you work (slowly) to build his tolerance up. I would also consider finding a trainer to do a lesson with you on getting him comfortable with the brush as you may need some additional insider that I can’t provide without meeting you firsthand. If finances are an issue, there is a great book called Cooperative Care: Seven Steps to Stress Free Husbandry I would recommend reading.
This is a question for all owners who have successfully taught this to their dog/s. Did you have the dog on a leash? My dog is 5 months old, I’ve had him 4 days and so far, he’s only peed whilst being off leash.
Some dogs refuse to go to the bathroom when on leash but it's a necessary life skill to have (ie. if you're ever travelling your dog will need to be able to do this because off leash is not an option everywhere you go). It may be that your pup prefers having a lot of personal space while going to the bathroom that being on leash doesn't allow for. Start by using a much longer training line, like a 15 or 20 foot line, instead of a short leash when you take your dog out to pee. Let them wander around with the line loose (leash pressure may be enough to stop a puppy from going to the bathroom if they already don't like peeing on leash). When they are willing to go to the bathroom on that long leash, you can gradually shorten the line by a couple of feet every 10 or so trips (give or take) out to the bathroom.
@@DarcieThedogtrainer Thank you so much for this and yeah you are certainly right in regards to being off leash not always an option. I will try your advice thank you
I have been trying this and it is not working. My little doxy lost his sight a few months ago and he just thinks he can pee and poop anywhere now. Very trying..
It's not that the training isn't working, it's that your dog is now learning to live with a very significant physical disability. Your dog is probably pretty stressed trying to figure out how to live without eyes all of a sudden so be patient and help him out as much as you can. Set a timer and make a point of taking your dog out a lot more frequently than you used to. Also limit what parts of the house he has access to when unsupervised (ie. barricade your kitchen entrances and keep him in there when you aren't watching him) until you've got this sorted out. I've lived with a blind dog so I understand the challenges. There's a lot he's adapting to right now and it isn't easy for him.
My dog is fine being brushed in a salon (either by a groomer or me) but at home he runs away and once he tried to bite the brush (he knows its the brush that's scary not me) He won't take treats in a salon though think he's too stressed but he does very well and gets lots of praise
I brought hommy first rescue dog in July 2021. Ginger Rogers was about a one-year-old, 70-lb Lab/Staffy I really did not know what to expect but I certainly did not expect what I got. My girl also did not know how to go up or down stairs, she didn't know how to ride in a car as she had obviously never gone in out of a car. The vacuum cleaner and the leaf blower were terrifying for her as were most moving objects and anything at all loud. And cars, motorcycles, bikes - all new to her. The lead, taking a walk, coming, no, yes, up...everything was new. I didn't understand her language I only knew "she needed." She had spent her entire first year in a crate, in a kennel in the humane society in Arkansas. I am retired so I am able to spend almost all of time with Ginger without leaving during the day her in the crate. At my age, age 71, she has been VERY challenging but now, after about 9 months she is really coming into her own. I hired a professional dog trainer to help us and this has been the best thing I have done. She is loving, sweet smart and a good girl, she sleep with us, and cuddles all nigh t long. When you read this statement," I am her everything," this is our situation. Even though I has raised and trained a number of Labs before, honestly I really didn't know enough to know what I was getting into. In hingsight, I wish I had researched more thoroughly.
Hey Darcy, thank you for taking the time and effort to product this excellent, easy to follow, video tutorial on how to train a puppy to enjoy (or tolerate) being brushed. I look forward to using your techniques on my new Poodle puppy.
I will try this with my dog who is JAPANESE SPITZ my dog is a she its been exactly a month since we have brang her in and altogether she is 2mon 1week she like being brushed at the start but one day she changed and I will edit this message if it works and checking other comments seems like it will
I just never had my dogs off leash anywhere but an enclosed area or my own backyard. Always too nervous about accidents and injuries, and my heart would be absolutely crushed if one ran away. So that’s never even a thought in my mind.
My puppy is an aussiedoodle, she is beautiful and so smart but needs brushed every day. The thing is, she absolutely hates it. We give her treats throughout using the slicker and the comb, but it takes two of my family members to hold her down while I brush her. She gets spoiled afterwards but it can be so hard, hopefully she learns to love it haha
1. Potty train them even if they are housebroken (because its a new environment for them). Take them outside every 30 min-1hr the first day and then every 1-2 hours after second day onwards until they are trained. 2. Teach them how to use the stairs and how to walk on certain floors if they aren't used to them 3. Train them to be comfortable around unfamiliar things, like bearded men, cars, umbrellas, etc. 4. Take them for short walks on leash and in less crowded areas until they are more comfortable 5. Crate train them to keep your dog and your stuff safe while you're are gone
This is very disappointing. I really love your content and training style. But, this is absolutely abhorrent. There are many, many puppies without homes - DO NOT SUPPORT BREEDERS. There are no ethical breeders. Rescues will also stand by you for the lifetime of your dog - for questions, problems, anything along the way. ADOPT DON'T SHOP.
Hi Isabel, I completely understand your concerns. Being a volunteer with a local dog rescue for the past 12 years and having spent time volunteering in several shelters - both high kill and no kill - over the years and seeing the impact on the dogs and humans who care for them, I know more than most people the plight of rescues and how important it is to spay and neuter so that we don't continue with the cycle of pet overpopulation leading to shelters being full of unwanted puppies. It's important to understand a few points, though, as nothing is black and white. I live in a region that does NOT have an abundant supply of rescue dogs. In fact, our shelters are often quite empty and far more people want dogs here than are able to get dogs - especially dogs that are suitable to their lifestyles - which means that they are going to get them wherever they can. I would much prefer they purchase a well bred dog from a reputable breeder than from a puppy mill that's keeping dogs in deplorable conditions just to make a profit. Another point to consider is that some people need a temperament guarantee. They need to know the genetic heritage of the dog to ensure it will be the right fit (temperament, size, grooming needs, energy level) for their lifestyle and family, so they choose to go the route of getting a purebred from a reputable breeder. There are a lot of unknowns with rescues and some people aren't willing or able to take that chance. Finally, many rescues do NOT stand behind the owners for the lifetime of their dogs. Of the many rescues we have locally, I can count on one hand the number that provide ongoing support. There are some super shady rescues and people getting screwed left right and centre with dogs not fit to be in homes with no support to guide them through how to help them. When people adopt from rescues like this and get dogs with nothing but issues, it puts them off adopting again and many will only go the route of purebred dogs after that, and understandably so. We also have people here that we call 'Rescue Mills' who pull large numbers of dogs from shelters and place them in any home willing to take them without doing so much as a home visit or reference check on the new owners. They take any dog, regardless of the temperament, and place them in any home, regardless of how suitable or not it is, and charge a ridiculous fee for the dogs. So they are profiting at the dogs and owners expenses under the guise of being a rescue. I know I'll never change a person's mind on this subject but rather than judging people for choosing to get a purebred rather than a rescue, understand that there is far more to the story than simply 'wanting a dog' and not caring about those in the shelters.
Glad I’m not the only one... nine month old Goldendoodle thinks the brush is a game, bites it. I feel like I’ve wrestled an alligator trying to get him brushed and sure enough he had to be shaved at the groomer due to matting 😔 Hoping to start all over as it grows & will try this technique. I think mine would stop cooperating as soon as treats stopped 😳
sHAPING LAWS WONT DO A DAMN BIT OF GOOD WHEN OUR OFFICIALS WONT AND DONT ENFORCE THE LAWS WE HAVE!!! PPL DO NOT NEED ASPCA BAGS AND TEE SHIRTS! USE THE MONEY YOU SPEND ON THAT STUFF FOR THE DOGS!! WE REALLY NEED HELP PUTTING THE SCUM BAGS OFF THE STREETS!!! SINCE COPS DONT CARE....SOMEONE HAS TO!
Talking about taking a dog in the car and use a crate "so they dont chew up your car" No one should take a dog for a ride when you plan on getting out of the car and leaving the dog there!!
I used this technique with my dog and what happened is she associated the treats with the brush and stopped eating the treats, so I kept switching them, and in the end she was nowhere nearer to liking the brush and also stopped eating like 3 different treats. Currently she will only let me brush her for like 5 minutes before she tries to attack the brush, meaning it takes me like 2 weeks to brush her completely, which is exhausting.
If the rewards are getting poisoned, that means you are pushing her too hard. Use a gentler brush, brush softer, reward more frequently, use drool-inducing treats, and decrease the session. For example if it's really an extreme case, you could do one brush stroke and then offer a whole chew (like a jerky for dogs) and do that once a day for a week. Most dogs will feel very differently about something if they get a huge reward for a tiny bit of inconvenience. Then for week 2, try to taper (e.g. 2 brush strokes, small treat, 2 brush strokes, big treat).
