The aim of the channel is to show my progress with building a 4mm /foot scale model of the now disused station at Bexhill-on-Sea, which was later renamed to Bexhill West. I use CAD and CAM extensively in my model making activities, and I hope that by showing my methods in the context of producing the model of Bexhill West might inspire others to try similar, or indeed share their experiences with me that I may improve.
To this end, and alongside my model making activities I am presenting a CAD series which is aimed at the beginner to Computer Aided Design. I will show how to make a start by using the freely available software LibreCAD. In doing so, I will be building-up a model of Bodiam Station which is on the Kent and East Sussex Railway. And I hope that by showing the processes in context that it might make them easier to follow for a novice.
Please advise the price of the HO scale complete system that includes the cleaned-up Ballast holding jar. Is Mpeterll a distributor in the States for you and if there are any other distributors kindly advise. I will have approximately 300 ft. to ballast. Thanks for providing a wonderful product to enhance model railroading. l will have approximately 300 ft. to ballast. Thanks for providing a wonderful product to enhance model railroading. Best, Wiley T
Très intéressant, j’ai construits un assez grand nombre de kit laiton, quelque soit le pays la technique est la même (c’est normal!) Pour la soudure ”métal blanc” sur laiton, j’étame le laiton, puis je soude à basse température avec des soudure pour figurine. Compliments pour votre travail et vs vidéos Daniel (un frenchie!)
Hi James that alignment aid tool you show in this video, will you be selling this on web shop or sell the file so we can make our own tool? many thanks Pete.
It's really nice, but two things. One, it looks expensive, and or time consuming. We have adapted to servo control because it is "cheap". Two, when you have scores, or in some cases hundreds of turnouts, you have a ton of wires running through your layout. One way I mitigate that is using controller boards like the "Jack Wabbit", DigiTrax DS74, etc, that are addressed from the track bus. Still, it is a mitigation and not solution. Ideally, we can come up with turnouts that tie directly into the track bus, without any mediators. A servo with it's own "mini" decoder, that would tie directly to the local bus would be perfect. It would save the wire bulk that clutters up modern layouts, as well as add to their complexity.
Would you say this is a better alternative to a co2 laser with the same wattage. I have a 30watt but I’m finding it expensive to run and maintain and I’m looking for an alternative option to cut if laser buildings? Thanks
When you moved the fan panel to the right side, was the cable long enough for the move or did you need to lenghten the cable. My Falcon2 Pro 40w does not seem to have a long enough cable to make that change.
Great question. The cable was long enough. There is an additional socket on the RHS frame in an identical position to the one on the LHS which I assume you are using. You can swap the wire over to there and it will work just fine. Best, James
That was really interesting, I have laser envy 🙂 as I only have a 20W Sculpfun. I'd be interested to see the results of a ramp test on the kerf to see if the optimal focus height is different from the factory recommendation and if the kerf reduced, not that kerf matters when you're cutting, as you said just take it into account at design stage. The only place it will probably matter will be engraving images, I'd imagine you would get better results on your bricks using 60W with the added benefit of much faster engrave times.
Hi James It might be possible to cut other metals, you need to do a couple of things, firstly uprate the air compressor to one that can give you a steady 40psi (or there abouts) with at least two inline moisture traps or you will fog up the laser lens, next you want to cut with a single pass to reduce heat buildup in the sheet which will of course cause warping, finally pre pierce a starting hole before cutting the profile a 2 second hole before starting the path should be enough, the higher pressure air should blast the slag off the metal giving you a much cleaner cut. In theory Stainless steel should cut the easiest but with its reflective surface it might not cut as well as regular steel ( a black paint finish may help) then brass, aluminium and finally copper run laser at full power with slowest speed possible.
Hi again. :) I forgot something. The kerf is usually different between horizontal and vertical cuts. In my tiny designs I had to take that into account because my horizontal kerf is slightly wider. For example, using simple printing paper (80g/m2), in order to cut the framing for some windows and obtain wooden parts equally wide (mullion, transom, ... sorry, English is my 3rd language and I don't know those names but I mean the wood forming the grid between glas parts in a real window), I had to use an offset of 0.0375 mm but only horizontally. Since, it's impossible to set in the software, I reduced all cuttings by this amount vertically. A drawing would be a lot easier than words to explain this, sorry. But basically, if you imagine I have a squared window formed by 9 squares of glas parts (for some projects those squares have sides of only 0.8 mm), all distanced from each other by 0.125 mm (less is quite hard without simply burning the paper), I needed to increase this distance to 0.2 mm each square of the 3 vertical stacks of 3 squares. For the outer cuts, most of the times, this difference is not significant enough to be noticed because all the "laminated up" parts are in fact all "wrong in the same direction" and they finally fit together. I hope that what I wrote makes any sense. :D Cheers ! :)
Hello ! :) Nice video. But I think there is one thing you did not go into. Probably because your machine is reliable enough and you did not need to. The vibrations when cutting at higher speed. I got a 5W cutter and then, after getting it physically broken and dealing with a really awful customer support, I decided to buy the 10W of the same brand (I know, it might sound stupid as the dealer is the same unique one for whole Europe, but I did). And I was quite disappointed because (it got as well broken during delivey but that's not the main point), not only the kerf was wider (on the contrary of what they claim on their ad; I had 0.08 mm with the 5W), but, more important, I was expecting to be able to cut faster (I am building the same kind of things as you do for model trains but in scales N (1/160), Z ( 1/220) and HN (1/320) and engraving thousands of bricks takes a huge time) but in fact I could not at all because increasing the speed was simply making the laserhead wobble and the results were disastrous. I finally never used the 10W and sticked to the 5W. The 2 models are in fact totally identical, except the laserhead itself and the lid. I think that because the 10W laserhead is heavier than the 5W one, the problem is that the mechanics is not strong enough to move it precisely. I did not see the link you said you would leave to a video to measure the kerf. I am mentioning it because I watched some of videos that are quite wrong in their methodology in measuring the kerf. Regarding cutting brass, I am surprised you tried because my dealer told me that any shiny surface would damage the optic. Ha, if I might take advantage of the opportunity, could you please tell us where you find the materials you use (this laser grade MDF and stencil card)? I use "wood-carton" (wooden cardboard?) but it's not as rigid as your materials as I can judge from your video. I am in Belgium and I can't find 0.5 mm MDF (if it ever exists) or something similar. Your stencil card seems to be nice. If I see the product you actually use, I can probably find the equivalent here (I could not find any within the 3 hours I was searching now) . It's not always easy with the way how materials names are translated and it's sometimes confusing. And by the way, I like how you designed your windows and wall to make them look nice from all sides ! :) Thank you and kind regards ! :)
avid follower of you 3d printing (as been printing for a while now my self)... and now your laser cutting (just bought one of thoose) :) can i ask what thickness MDF, and stencil board?
Hi James The reason (which I am sure you know) that Brass (Aluminium and copper as well) will not cut but steel will is down to the heat transfer properties of the materials Steel is about 10 times worse at transfering the heat away from the cutting area
Great job on the video! I'm very impressed with the rather small kerf you calculated for this very powerful laser at all 3 settings. I would love to see you run some tests on 6mm (1/4") wood. I think you would want to cut with the 20W settings vs. the 40W or 60W if you're working on fine detailed projects like earrings, you would want the smaller kerf. Keep up the great job!
This is fantastic, I have been messing about for ages as I couldn't afford the mega bucks some suppliers were asking. Your efforts both of you are to be applauded and thank you so much. Could I ask how far you have both progressed this now, as I am looking for exactly one or two of these for my OO Gauge layout.
Hi James, thank you for your video! I'm considering between the 40W and 60W models and I'm wondering if the 60W gives a cleaner edge when cutting 6mm plywood than the 40W model? Did I understand correctly that the more powerful the laser and the faster it cuts, the edge will not burn black when cutting, for example, birch plywood?
Great job on the video! I look forward to Part 2 and your kerf findings. I’ll be interested to see if it’s a square or rectangular spot. Rectangular makes it more difficult when working with inlays. My current 10W is 0.08mm x 0.08mm and makes things a lot easier, but I would like more power to cut 6mm wood faster.
I’m testing that out now for Part 2. There’s actually 4 different wattages 22,44 & 60w on the main unit, plus the bonus 1.6w laser module (not shown in this video. At 60w the kerf is approximately 0.1mm and ranges down from there. Full details I. part 2. Thanks for watching, James
Hi James, Nice to see all the various choices creality offer when it com,es to laser cutters and what they can do. I keep meaning to get back to you regarding the plug track but life has gotten in the way 🤣 Cheers, Michael
Hi James, that you can cut a stanley blade is impressive but the cut itself looked pretty ragged, also whilst the 20 and 40W engraving looked even the 60 W to my eyes looked, well the best description I can come up with is mottled. Am I wrong ? The other thing I'm wondering about is the Kerf width, typically the more diodes you are using the wider the beam width that you get. Finally the Creality website suggests that the power settings use a different number of LED's meaning I suspect that the 22W LED's will fail before the others assuming you are cutting using a variety of settings
Hi David, To be honest, I think the ‘mottled’ look you mention is more due to the material than the laser. The cleanliness of the 20mm single pass cut is more indicative of performance. Agreed, the cut of the Stanley blade is not perfect, but it’s twice the stated capacity of the machine and would be a moments work to grind perfect. Yes the kerf width will vary according to power. My initial tests are showing the 60w kerf to be around .1mm down to the 1.6w module (not shown in the video) being about 0.06mm. I’ll get into this more in part 2, but that is one of the benefits of the variable power settings. Thanks for watching, James
Thank you for this review. I'm not a model train buff [though as a terrain builder I've learned quite a bit from the model train hobbyists on YT and have loved model railways since I was but a bairn] but I'm thinking of getting one of these printers and was looking for a clear and honest review from a fellow Brit. So glad RU-vid sent your video my way. Thanks again )O(
Hello, Thanks for taking the time to put this video together James. I have been listening too, and half-watching, these videos as I work some mk2 coaches in Blender and it's been really interesting to compare your workflow.
Hi James, thank you so very much for taking the time to detail further your 3D build, really appreciated. This 34min episode to some may sound easy, but I'm sure there are hours invested here, and it will definitely stand the test of time. Very best regards
id like to see part 3 for one, I can also suggest the axle box and spring can be printed as one piece, slid into the w iron and will work as a conformal mechanism if you use 'engineering resin' or similar. ive done this before on some lowmacs I designed and it worked a treat for full working suspension with no extra build effort.
I saw my first 3D printed wagon this week, a South Australian 4 wheeled sheep van by Piping Shrike Models. I was blown away with the detail and incredible truth to the full size vans I used to work with as a stock agent. I dropped $200 on the spot for 4 sets of two. I'm a very happy camper. Yours look really good James. Amazing how 3d printing is improving the hobby. Nothing is out of reach now.
Thank you. Of course having created the 'separate' compartments and ends, I've now got a head-start on the next carriage in that I can recycle the parts. For example, I just need to draw a first-class compartment now in order to produce a composite carriage, and maybe a lavatory compartment, and a brake end. Soon I could have a complete rake. I've draw-up a complete set of Clayton Arc-roofed stock and the complete set didn't take long once the first had been completed. Got to get back to the SE&CR stock though - I'm too easily easily distracted. :) Thanks for watching, James
I wonder why did you have to cut all the pieces of the first sample project. The laser is supposed to make a clean cut where the pieces just fall of by themselves or with a little pressure
Very nice. Thought the historical background was interesting too. Next step fully functioning ballast wagons to use in conjunction with your ballast vacuum.😀
Are there any pros/cons to digitising your copies of the drawings into what you might call 'model coordinates' with the CAD drawing defined in terms 4mm scale target measurements vs creating the initial CAD drawing in 'real world coordinates' and scaling the 2D drawing or 3D CAD model later? Or would you say it’s just a matter of personal taste? For example, another comment is from someone who prefers to do their initial CAD drawing using the 'real world' dimensions on the drawing. Also wondered CAD packages offer features to deskew and correct aspect ratios of imported pics used for tracing; perhaps this isn’t a common use case for the majority of CAD work.
I think it's a matter of personal preference really. When I'm making a model I like to use the model scale and dimensions as it's handy to be able to 'visualise' the key dimensions dimensions that I'm working with. For example, I know the axles will be made from 2mm diameter bar, so the design of the bearings and details inside the axleboxes will be based around this 2mm dimension. The same applies for things like coupling hooks and handrail wire, etc. for which I will be using parts and materials with specific dimensions. That being the case, it makes sense (to me at least) to scale the entire model and use model dimensions throughout. If this were a generic model, which I anticipated reproducing in a variety of scales, then I would probably draw full-size and scale at the point of printing. It is also possible to create a table of key dimensions, and set the drawing to 'read' these when creating a part. This is a useful technique when planning to produce an item in different scales. For example, we could create a data entry for 'axle diameter', with separate columns for 2mm,3mm,4mm & 7mm scales etc. with a different diameter for each. We can then reference the drawing to the relevant piece of data in the table depending upon what we require. Imagine something like a locomotive wheel, if we tabulate all the key dimensions and parameters; diameter, no of spokes, crank pin position, etc. then we can write a formula to produce, (for example), a 5'6" diameter wheel with an S7 tyre profile with 16 spokes, crank in-line to suit a 24" piston stroke. In practice, it's a little more involved than that - but that's the basic process of parametric modelling. Usually though, I just sit at my computer and doodle to pass time - hence I've a hard-drive full of quite interesting stuff - most of which I've forgotten I've drawn. :) Thanks for watching, James
Hi James. Just come across this video whilst looking at the Templot track videos. Firstly, well done! It’s not easy to make a “do this, press that, use this button’ video entertaining and informative. You have made a damn good job of it. I have an Elegoo Saturn S resin printer already, but looking at both this video and the Templot track making videos, it seems it would be good to have a laser cutter too. Bearing in mind I work in 7mm scale (so materials might be heavier, certainly larger), do you have any suggestions for a budget (bargain basement if my wife reads this) laser cutter? Or perhaps some “minimum” specs I need to look for. Eg diode laser, 10W etc? Plywood sleepers are my preferred option and I like what you’ve done with panelled coach sides. It’s something I’d love to take further. BTW, what glue do you use to join sides/ends/floors?
Thank you Malcolm, you're tight it's not easy to produce a video like this, not is it an easy watch so thank you for your patience. As for laser cutters, if it's your first I'd now recommend a diode laser over Co2 for easy of use, although a Co2 laser is more versatile. I would try to go for something like 20w as a minimum as a good compromise between speed and cutting power. I'm certain that any 5w laser would do most of what you need, but slightly more power makes for a more pleasant quality of life in use. I'm presently reviewing a 60W diode laser which is a beast, it's absolutely amazing, but realistically quite unnecessary for model making work. Indeed, it may even be a little dangerous. :) As for glues, I tend to use CA glue for just about everything as I'm impatient, otherwise its quality PVA for most other jobs and school-type PVA to glue plywood sleepers down. Why school-type glue? Well, if something goes down in the wrong place it is easy to spray with water, cover with cling-film overnight and lift/reposition with very little damage. :) Thanks for watching, James
Hi there thanks for the video I want to get into 3d design and print for my oo gauge and have enjoyed the video and look forward to seeing part 2 . I've also enjoyed your other billd videos
Thank you Paul, part 2 is now up - there may even be a part 3 on the way, just as soon as I clear-up a couple of other bits and bobs. Thanks for watching, James
Hi I would be interested in buying a kit. What are you thinking in terms of the set up would it include a turntable well or will it be just the control box and the other parts required without the well. Only reason I am asking I have a peco well installed with a very noisy drive system lining up by eye.
About the curves of the roof and lower side wall parts; not unlikely the drawing and the components, as well as the jigs for it have been done by different people at different times, one interpreted the work of the other 😉(and not seldom some parts got replaced after some years, rebuild roughly from what was there or just used the newer version of it) What's relevant -> stay inside the loading gauge of the specific line (and era) you build your carriage / wagon for 😶🌫you know, that one tunnel, north of Bexhill West, you mentioned before. Till next video (or if I spot someting else in this video)
Hi James, another great video, I too use this concept of old drawings which can to be converted into or downloaded as PDF files and imported into a cad system. The only place I would say I differ from you is I prefer to initially scale up to full size first, and then draw in decimal imperial units. I fully agree this is only a matter of preference. The reason I do this is in fact the same reason you go onto explain, in that you ultimately have to start to best guess some in fact a lot of of the measurements. which is as you say not exactly best drawing practice. However by scaling up first it helps me at least make much more sense of the variation in the copied drawing. So for example if a panel wide was say 0.235 mm it does not make much sense, but a panel width of 0.75 inches makes much more sense I.e. would it be practical to have used a 3/4 wide piece of timber for that frame. Yes it would, therefore you can with some confidence move forward. ultimately once the 2d drawing is finished I then scale back by the 76.2 value taking me back to the metric 4 mm unit value and import into 3D cad. I believe that is something worth thinking about. Cheers Phil,
Hi Phil, I totally agree with your logic here. However, if I'm drawing something for a specific model scale then it makes sense to me to base my drawing in units to which work well with the materials I intend to use. For example, I'm currently drawing up the artwork for a locomotive chassis which will be etched. The starting point being the thickness of the material I intend to use. That being the case it works for me to use that unit as the basis for the drawing, which is especially helpful when dealing with things like slots and tabs. In essence the same though process as you describe, just with inverted logic. Simply scaling from full-size can produce odd-sizes. Not a problem with a 3d print, but with fabricated parts, one often has to select from stock material sizes, with inevitable rounding-up or down errors, which can lead to 'stack-up' errors in a fabrication. If I'm drawing something as a digital model only then I always use the parent units, often full-size imperial. Thanks for watching, James
Cheers Mike, give it a go. I think the 2d part is the hardest. Once a 2d profile has been created, the subsequent extrusion, cut or revolve is straightforward. Good luck, James
Thanks Keith. I like to use various bits of software to keep my hand-in, but essentially they are all the same. I'm looking forward to starting on a Thumper soon. The next episode is now up. I hope you find it useful. All the best, James
