Resurrection Retro is about taking old tech that no-one wants or loves and bringing it back to life. Dosent matter what it is as long as it is a bit old and fruity.
What that tube brand, Mullard? I never saw one of those in the US. I have 2 Toshibas from about the same time and they have Toshiba branded tubes in them. Do you think the chassis is a different brand is it's just branded Toshiba?
He just turned up on my doorstep asking for a bowl of sugar. Ended up with a plate of food and a game controller in his hand.. Never knew his name but was very polite till someone got his high score.
This model was the one we had connected to our home computers back in the day. BBC, Spectrum 128 and finally Atari St. Many happy hours gazing into this TV.
any way to reduce the high pitch noise i want to buy a old crt tv at my thrift store but they all have that loud high pitch noise, i know they all make that noice but they are so loud
@@elden4267 unfortunatly all CRTs will have that. Its the scanning coils to move the electron beam across the screen. Welcome to the worlds of vintage electronics.
As there become fewer and fewer CRT's around, ANY one is worth saving. They're parts can be salvaged, or at the very least it can be used as a display piece of a bygone time.
The noise during rewind and fast forward is probably due to the "sticktion" problem these machines have. The drum is too shiney and the air cushion that keeps the tape from sticking to the drum gets squeezed out and the tape tries to grab onto the drum. My SL-2000 had this problem and it sounds like yours has the same problem. I replaced the upper drum with one from Sony years ago, and I don't have the problem anymore.
Is it possible disassemble and clean the key contacts without desoldering them… half of the ones on my keyboard are dodgy… Dont fancy desoldering them all… ta.
A trick to getting the cables through the hole in the drum is to stick them into a plastic drinking or cocktail straw, and then pass the straw through the holes in the drum. you can then lower it down and viola
The part you ordered is not the idler, the idler in this machine is only used for fast forward and rewind. What you ordered is in fact the mechanism for the take up reel. The big rubber from that spare part is driven by the capstan flywhweel, via that the small rubber on the other side the take up reel is driven. Ussually the original part is still good and does not need to be replaced. Besides that, I noticed your machine goes into the famous breakdown mode each time you eject the tape. I think the timing is a bit off regarding the 2 plastic loading gears. Once the cassette lift is up, try to adjust the gears a bit. Make sure the O- shaped form on each gear is in line with the metal opening above it. Good luck!
Had the red Pye version as a monitor some years ago but was so unreliable with pots failing and resistors going high gave it up as a bad job and dumped it.
Greetings! I came across your video by accident. I bought a KV-M1400 about a year ago. The TV was delivered packed by a transport company. Unzipped and turned on, but no, black screen. Having removed the back cover, you found exactly such a fracture of the board. I think this is a problem place in them. (At low temperatures, the crystal lattice begins to change and tin changes into another form called "gray tin". This transition is accompanied by an increase in volume, which can lead to the destruction of the tin coating. This phenomenon is called "tin plague". The device reacts by tapping.)
You probably can move the eccentricity gauge closer to the head disk where the tip is in contact when you spin the disk along with zeroing out the dial to get an accurate reading. I can just tell that it is off a little. Which would cause the picture "warbling" issue.
A widescreen CRT this small is quite a rare sight, the more common widescreen tubes are 29" and bigger. And it's not being 100Hz is also rare. The lack of 100Hz scan conversion makes it perfect for retro gaming, while the 16:9 screen makes it perfect for movies. Let's have a look at the service menu, this probably has an hours counter! These later Trinitrons are usually good for 25k hours. The smaller the tube, the higher the life, because they have the same guns, but smaller screens need lower beam current for the same brightness. I have a 27" 4:3 Trinitron with 30+ k hours, it still has some picture. Once I had a 29" flat Trinitron (KV-29FX20) with 43.000 hours in it and zero repairs to the chassis, it needed a 10 minutes warmup to produce a picture, and even after that it was so dim it was only visible in a dark room. I replaced the tube, resoldered the chassis and replaced some critical electrolytics, and it kept going, it might still work...
I had that fault on one of these, there was a dead resistor on the CRT base PCB, can't remember which one it was now, but I think it was something to do with the G2 voltage, there was something like a couple of hundred volts one side of the resistor, and nothing the other. Anoyingly I don't have the telly with me at the moment, otherwise I'd pop the back off and see which resistor it was!
Oh memories. My first machine was an Amstrad 1640 with one floppy drive. Hercules monitor. Later I added an MFM 20mt hard drive and an EGA monitor. I still have the diskettes.
Wow Brings back some memories used the same machine in 1987 when I did my HND in Coventry Technical Collage (the Butts). looking forward for your next video Thank you 🙂
Do you know what it could be if the tape doesn't catch onto something? I've got a Sony SL-2005 (NTSC) and there's nothing online about how to solve this. I have the camcorder that goes with it and without a tape correctly threaded onto the things it needs to thread on, there's no image from the camcorder. The player will sense the tape, but will not wind it correctly.
